I am just about to start a new N scale layout and it will be the first time to use code 55 track.
I will also be my first layout with DCC. I have not built one with DCC or Code 55 and have some questions concerning turnout selection.
On my past layout, I was using code 80 with Peco insulfrog turnouts. I thought that this is what you want to use to avoid messing with power routing, polarity, etc. It does not seem that Peco makes code 55 with insulfrogs. What issues will I have to deal with if I use electrofrog turnouts on a DCC layout?
Do the Atlas code 55 turnouts have electrofrogs?
Any other tips concerning the way I build the laout with DCC? There will be no turntables, wyes, or retun loops to worry about. I do want to utilize the loconet for LINESIDE SIGNALS.
I have pretty limited knowledge of things in N, but I thought I would chip in my experience with the Atlas switches. If they do their Cd. 55 switches the same as their Code 100 for HO, you should be fine. The Cd.100 cheapie off the shelf switches are great for DCC users right out of the package with no modifcations.
If you will ever be standing more than 6 feet from where the comand station is, start with radio. Then you can walk around with the trains. With a free standing 4x8 this is even more fun, you can walk around. IR does not work very well, and the tether cord becomes a big frustration as you get used to DCC.
I ended up with three throttles and watching the grandkids each run their own train is a blast.
I’m currently working on a series of inter-connecting modules in N using PECO code 55 track & turnouts. The whole thing is run by an MRC Prodigy Advance system. You are absolutely correct that the PECO turnouts are electrofrog and this does create a special situation with DCC (probably with DC as well.) The key is to put insulating gaps at the frog ends of the inner two branches of the turnout. Think of it this way: the point end of the turnout (where the train enters the switch) starts out electrically “correct” (lets call the upper rail “+” and the lower rail “-”.) As the points move a short circuit will be created when the through route is selected (the “-” rail of the point end will try to feed current to the “-” rail. Remember that the frog end of the turnout has a small “V” shapped section of rail (the frog) that causes the problem. So by gapping the rails just past the frog you isolate the turnout from the potential short circuit. I have experienced no stalling problems as DCC’s “pulse” technology helps to overcome this problem. I use insulating rail joiners to separate the layout into discrete power blocks (my plan is to add the new Atlas signals after the layout is operational) and I solder all my track joints to ensure solid track-to-track connections. This way I know that the tracks are aligned properly and that all my wheel sets will run smoothly. Next I create the insulating gaps at the frog ends using a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool. I am looking at getting the extra-thin cut-off wheel from Micro Mark, as the standard Dremel cut-off wheel takes a rather big “bite” out of the rail (although everything still works fine- it’s just a cosmetic thing.) I hope you find this info helpful. Perhaps you could post a few pictures so we can join in your success! Good luck.
Atlas Code 55 N turnouts are different from their other turnouts and are a good choice for DCC, though they may require a little extra wiring.
The frog is electrically isolated from the rest of the turnout, with a copper strap extending out to the edge of the turnout. If you don’t connect anything to the eyelet at the end of this strap, the frog is dead, much like an insulfrog. But if you connect a lead to this eyelet that is switched by a turnout motor or the electrical switch in a hand throw, it is possible to make it act more like an electofrog. This is helpful to avoid stallouts over the frog with short wheelbase locos.
Note also that you’ll also need some method of holding the switchpoints to one side or the other with the Atlas Code 55, there is no built-in spring as in the PECO. This could be a turnout motor, ground throw, or a slide switch beneath or beside the turnout. Any of these can also provide the electrical switching to power the frog.
One other thing to be aware of with the Atlas 55 components is that oversize flanges (as with older micro-trains cars and Arnold locos, for example) will sometimes hit the plastic nibs that hold the rail to the ties. This can be a little tricky if you have a lot of older equipment, but newer cars and engines work fine.
This thread came at the perfect time for me as I was just about to ask the same thing. If I understand what you’re saying all I have to do is gap both of the rails just past the frog and I’m all set? I don’t need any other special wiring or switches? This may be easier than I thought.
The Plan I am using came from the MR Book “Small, Smart, and Practical Track Plans.” The plan is called CC Tower.
The basic gist is that the main focal point consists of a double track main crossing a single track line at a tower. There is hidden staging for both loops and a large grain elevator in the middle of the town. Really nice plan (I think) for people who like operation (like me).
I am planning on having the double track main be the B&O/C&O, but it will also have Penn Central on that line do to trackage rights through town. The PC would diverge off outside of town (ficticiously).
This is simmilar to the arrangement that NYC or PRR had somewhere in NW Ohio or Michigan that I saw on one of my PC Tapes (Green Frog).
The single track will be NKP/N&W, so a NW Ohio sceme for this layout should work well.