Like the subject says Im a greenhorn to the forum getting back into the hobby. As a kid I had many trainsets (all just loops…round and round). Since growing up I became heavily involved in miniature wargaming (warhammer, warmachine, hordes, etc etc). With so many years in this…painting and modeling…I have arrived back at scale model railroads (many skills involved in painting and modeling miniatures cross over to model railroading). I am also a World War I and II reenactor and very much enjoy set pieces…so naturally, model railroading interests me.
I know exactly what theme I want…I want to model the PA railroad with a limestone quarry and coal mine servicing a steel mill and cement production plant(among other industries). I want the year to be 1954-55 (I want to run the first gen diesels and the last gen steam). Havent decided on the season…itll either be summer or very early spring.
My original plan was a HCD door layout (N scale)…then it morphed into a 3 by 8 N scale…then a 4x8 HO…now I am back to square one as I update myself with the modern “train” of thought (as apposed to where I come from…the 4x8 roundy round). The absolute max size layout I have space for is a 4ft x 11ft (Im not committed to make it that big…that is just the limit of possiblity). What im thinking is 3 main focal points…industrial center, Mine, quarry with stretches of smaller wallmount sections in between.
I have read the beginners guide to track planning and reviewed many plans…I just cant settle…So im just asking for any pointers/suggestions/ideas with regard to my “vision” that I have provided.
Also…any personal arguments for/against HO and N scale (I know this may open a can of worms).
I see no one has replied to your post yet, so if I may make suggestion. At the top of this page, is a black bar, within that bar is a title, ‘‘Get Started’’ click on that and read and see Video’s related to some of Your questions. I could spend hours telling you my own experiences, but there is something about seeing it in a Video. Hopefully you are a subscriber, but a lot can be viewed also by non subs.
You say you have room for up to a 4x11 layout - does this include the space required to walk around the outside of it? If so, I point you in the direction of a ‘donut’ shaped layout, which, while consuming no more room space than a 4x11 island with room to walk around it, offers much greater opportunites and more workign area for the layout. Even if you can only go around 3 of the 4 walls, sort of a dogbone shape where the ends bulge for turnback curves, can be a more effective use of space.
This is probably the hardest hurdle to get over after having built all previous layouts as the island types on a slab of wood or a door or whatever. But once you start sketching and visualize, it will come to you.
As for which scale, that’s entirely a preference matter. N scale of today is quite reliable, unlike what I had nearly 40 years ago. If you’re thinking about DCC, it’s easier in HO scale, more room to work, but with N scale you can get more track AND still have a better scenery to track ratio than HO in the same space.
the 4x11 area would allow for one edge to be open for walking. I have been reading alot about modular design and am liking the concept. I can build the modules in the garage (2x2 or 2x4) and then bring them in and place them. I will definitely be moving in the next 1-2years probably…so this allows for easier transportation.
The next issue I forsee is choosing between DCC and DC. I have very little skill in electrical when it comes to this…I have tried to educate myself but its confuising to me (my skill lies in modeling/painting/scenery/carpentry). Considering my lack of skill with electrical…I like the idea of the bull frog manual turnout switches (unless I decide to use turnouts with built in machines).
and then theres what track to use…I am a stickler for realism (with in reason). With regard to that I do not see alot of love for KATO or any product that comes with a bed…the resounding consensus is to get ME, Atlas 55 or PECO for decent realism (I am NOT hand laying track ha!). I did not realize that turnout switches are sold seperately for Atlas (driving price up!!).
Randy has mentioned that around the walls will give you more options and larger curves, but if you are limited to a table type arrangement, there are a few things I would suggest. Since 4’ is too far for most of us to reach, I hope you can walk around the layout, at least up and down the two long sides. Should be OK with one short side against a wall.
With your desire to have some rural customers, I suggest a view block down the length of the layout. It will make it so your trains go somewhere out of sight. Mine is just high enough so that I cannot see the other side of the layout, but can see over it if there are other operators or guests there. My suggestion is to not have it dead center or parallel to the sides, buy doing so it seems to disguise it a little better. Where you change from one side to the other there are many ways to make it look quite natural. On one end of mine I use a deep rock cut, the other, a stand of large trees. Tunnel entrances, bridges and going behind large buildings are some of the other options.
I am planning an around the walls, but oif you are limited to a table, those are some suggestions.
Modular has another advantage that you might want to take advantage of. There are modular standards to allow individual module builders to combine their modules into a large layout at various venues. Free-moN is one example of a continent-wide N scale modular standard; there are several others. The “drawback” of using a modular standard for a home layout is that you won’t be able to optimize the track design for a limited space. Joining a modular group also allows you easy and friendly access to the shared experiences and knowledge of others building modules to the same standard.
Almost all modular standards use DCC for control, simply because DCC lends itself to flexibility during setup and high density train operations (typical at a modular setup). But if you are building a layout for home use only, and operating only 1 or 2 engines at a time, DC would be somewhat cheaper. DCC wiring is probably easier to understand and implement.
I have no comment on track because I have not used the various N scale brands.
I’d have suggested HO scale because of the equipment availability, but there is recent news that opens up some doors for N scalers. GHQ has recently announced that they intend to re-release their N scale reboilering kit to make an L1s 2-8-2, and there is also an M1a coming. So your decision to go with N scale may be the best choice, considering your space limitations.
First off, I’d like to add my [#welcome] to the forums. I’ve found them a wonderful source of information, how-to’s, mistakes to be avoided, etc. When I was still in the planning stage of my layout, I thought it would be great to have long trains that N-scale allows, but, at my age, my eyesight isn’t quite what it used to be (it’s hard enough to get HO scales cars and locos on the track). Plus, there is so much more available in HO than any other scale. The thought of adding trackside details, people, etc. in N-scale still makes me cringe. Hats off to those who can do it.