Hello All!!! I’m a new model railroader and I’m here to ask some general easy questions from a beginner. I’ll start with I’m running an HO scale setup in a spare room. I’ve already build my table. It’s a flipped “L” if you can picture that. Length 9x 4 feet, and the small part of the L 4x4 feet. So a dececnt size table for a first time layout. I plan to run 2 trains and will not be going DCC at this time.
I’ve gone with life like power loc track as I had an old set from my Grandfathers. I’ve already done my mail line that basicly runs in a L shape.
Most of my questions at this point have to do with wiring. I just purchased some switches. I havent got them yet, but I don’t want to short out any of my stuff so here I am.
First from what I’ve found on the internet and youtube I’m seeing people’s setup that are not DCC. they have a what looks like a controll box with a throttle and switches and stuff. Then they have a bunch of buttons with numbers. Then there is almost always a pic of the layout near this controll set up, and everywhere there is a switch or a turnout or something with corasponding numbers labeled for each buttoon on this board. I’m assuming this is so the operator can flip switches to controll the flow of electricity to certain points of the track at certain times?
What are the terms for these controller set ups? I’d like to get one of the power packs that has a nice throttle and what not…what should I be looking at for my size of layout and number of trains?
Also is there any links you could give to make understanding wiring for multi trains and switches for newbies?
I’m sure I’ll think of more but it’s early and I haven’t had the required amount of caffine for operation.
Welcome! You’ve come to the right place for advice on your new layout. You are about to recieve tons of advice about how to do things, but first and foremost, just have fun with whatever you are doing! I would suggest that you read as much as you can stand and then go run a train or two on whatever you have. There are so many things to do in this hobby from designing and building your benchwork to final details and scenes. Remember that on your layout, nothing has to be permanent, in fact most of us have more fun re-designing and re-doing. I think the first thing to take the joy out of playing trains is poor trackwork. Pay close attention to the advice given here as it comes from tons of experience (read that to mean "I already made that mistake once, here’s what NOT to do! ) but take everything with a grain of salt. Read and choose the best advice for you. First advice from me would be to look into another brand of track. Life Like Power Lok track will be ok for your first go around, but their switches are of a poorer quality and will give you problems as time goes on. If I remember correctly, that track is made from steel and will develop problems with rust which will not conduct electricity and then you train won’t run. I would suggest that you seriously consider DCC since you don’t even have a power pack yet, this is the time to start. The difference in cost for a good power pack and a DCC system isn’t that much if you are planning on filling your 9x4 layout, by the time you buy the switches and wire all the separate blocks the cost of going DCC gets more reasonable as you expand. Even the lowest cost DCC system, Bachmann’s EZ DCC, at around $90 list price, which can be had for about $50. will give you more fun than a plain DC system. It’s a good starter point. Enough from me for now, others will soon chime in.
My first suggestion would be to not use the Power Loc track. The way that track is designed, the trains will derail more than any other form of track. I speak from experience. There is no rail joiners on the rails to keep the track in alignment. I would suggest Bachmann EZ track for you application. It is a little more sturdier. Bachmann also makes several different curve radii and different types of turnouts.
The term that you are trying to find about your wiring question is called block wiring. It can be cumbersome and can cause a lot of frustration. Baisically you have to block off certain sections of track to keep the loco from moving when you don’t want it to. To do this you must place insulated rail joiners in the places where you want the block. You explained the rest in your post.
Good luck and always remember to enjoy this hobby.
I’ve been in the hobby for about a year now and made the decision to start out with DCC. I had seen what a pain the block wiring was by comparison with people spending a lot of time diagnosing shorts and lack of power in sections, etc. You’ll find these forums to be a wealth of information on virtually any topic related to model railroading. Use the Search and you’ll see that most of your questions have already been asked and answered once you’ve picked up the jargon. I’ve learned that there are frequently several right ways to do things. In the end that allows you creativity and personal choice. Look for posts that have pictures of what people have done. There are some amazing pictures here of structures and weathering.
Then our HOST here, Kalmbach Publishing, Model Railroader’s parent company, has produced a great how to manual called "BASIC WIRING
FOR MODEL RAILROADS". That really covers what you are looking for. There are many other manuals that they produce as well covering the various aspects of layout building from benchwork to scenery to weathering and more…
There is no one perfect way to build that will suit or satisfy all modellers, do lots of reading in books and online and then do what you feel comfortable with and as others have said , keep in mind that we are doing this for fun and the love of railroading.
For a power pack there are lots of choices , just make sure the one you choose is made by MRC. “Model Rectifier Corp.” They are very reliable and good customer service if ever required.
Best wishes and stay an active members here. These are all great folks and want you to succeed .
Welcome to the hobby. My only two cents at this time are that you’ll learn quickly (as I did) if you want to operate your trains with any sort of consistency and reality that anything by Life-Like is junk. I have so much faith in the products that I don’t even worry if I offend any Life-Like die hard fans that swear by it, if there are any.
Good luck and learn lots of stuff. That’ll help your RR the most.
I am also fairly new to the hobby and have made my share of mistakes like purchasing everything under the sun without any regard for the era and style of a layout. Currently I do not have a permanant layout because of the lack of space (the downside to buying a town house without a friggin basement). I do like the Life-Like power loc track but I recognize that the quality is lacking.
The power-loc track allows me to quickly set up and tear down my layout and provides easy storage until next time. Anyway enough about that, like others have suggested read all you can and have an idea of what you want to focus on to avoid spending money on items you will not use. Most of all just enjoy yourself.
You are in the right place to ask questions. Seems like you have some answers to your current question, so I will only add that when you post a new question use a specific topic in the subject line.
I don’t know about Life-Like, but I know Atlas has a wiring book to go with their types of switches, (electrical and turnouts), made setting up a layout with blocks, as you seem to be leaning toward, quite easy.
Welcome. You’ve come to the right place to get help from a great bunch of folks. Probably the best overall of any place else.
My 2 cents,
DC or DCC, personally I run DC, for how much longer? ??? I agree with you don’t need DCC for a single operator layout but the wiring can be a bit much if you have many sidings and spurs. Another area where DCC shines. An inexpensive DCC will set you back about as much as a good power pack and all the power switches to the track sections you separate to keep locos from running etc, and the wiring is much less spaghetti. Of course with DCC if you already have locos that are not DCC equipped then you can’t run any trains until you either modify or replace the locos. Which brings me to…
Life Like. You may not have a loco that runs now or soon won’t. As revered as Walthers is, their acquisition of Life-Like was, well, a poor judgment call in my opinion. It is probably the poorest quality stuff I can think of now, with the exception of their Proto stuff. Some may disagree and cite examples, I can site examples too, and so can many others to say stay away. But don’t throw the stuff away, you can use it for temporary stuff that you don’t mind fiddling with. Like a temp Christmas layout.
Best advice I can give. DO NOT skimp on track or track work. You don’t have to buy the most expensive track but don’t save a buck or two in this area. Buy cheap cars if you must. You can improve those as you go along fairly cheap. But you don’t want to be tearing up track or constantly repairing track. Atlas is good (others also). Life-Like is Bad. E-bay sells a lot of used brass track. I’d stay away from brass. I have a section that is old and is still brass. I don’t have much problems but the potential is there. Before you invest in a bunch of track, ask.
As you progress in the hobby your preferences on many things will change. Trust me.
The “control box with a throttle” is called a power pack. A good maker of power packs in MRC (Model Rectifier Corp). The power pack takes 120 volt AC from a wall socket and converts it into 0 to 12 volt DC to run the trains. The throttle knob adjusts the voltage going to the track and hence the speed of the train. Power packs also have a second pair of terminals to furnish a fixed voltage to operate accessories and switch machines.
The “pic of the layout” is called a control panel and is made of masonite or clear plastic. Some of the toggle switches turn track power on and off to v
Do your research first and spend your money second.
As others have said "Power Loc track isn’t the best. It will get you by for a while though Don’t skimp on track and rollingstock. Also since your layout space is limited use smaller equipment. Model a shortline that uses second hand power such as EMD SW1200’s or maybe Alco S4’s.as I’m assuming you are in the diesel age.
Use freight cars, vehicles, & structures that fit your era.
If there is a club in your area get with them as most clubs are an excellent place to learn.
