9’x5’ is so much better than 8’x 4’.
24" radius should be considered a minimum unless you really can’t find the space.
A Simon said, a 4 by 8 is a great way to get your feet wet, especially if you want just one train running at once.
It sound like you have everything going good here. Build a simple layout, learn a lot, and find out what you want from the next layout.
You should have a lot of fun… enjoy!
For cheap, and OK for runners, I would look for IHC cars on eBay. However, passenger cars look bad on 4 by 8 layouts. Maybe the shorter passenger cars made by Athearn would be a better choice.
Example of IHC passenger car:
-Kevin
Kevin, I know that at least some IHC heavyweight passenger cars were in fact manufactured by Rivarossi. But did they offer some from other manufacturers?
In all cases, I would go for 60’ cars for a 4X8, like older era Harriman and Pullman stuff, but I realize that this is not what the OP is looking for.
Simon
I do not know. The only IHC passenger cars I own are undecorated smooth sides, and they do not have a Rivarossi mark on them that I have seen. My Rivarossi heavyweights came in Rivarossi boxes.
Actually, the 60 foot harriman cars could be the best choice for the OP. They are available in UNION PACIFIC colors, and would look OK on a 4 by 8.
-Kevin
OP - The Zephyr system is very robust, and will well handle the 4X8 you are planning.
(My first DCC system was the original Zephyr syestem, way back when.)
Please note: The Zephyr does not require all decoders to be Digitrax. (You may already know that, but I didn’t see anyone mention it.) So you can (when ready too) advance to the “higher end” decoders. (I still have a few locomotives with Digitrax decoders, even non-sound editions.)
For the passenger cars, on a 4X8, you will want the shorter Harriman cars. (From experience, my last 4X10 with 22"R curves didn’t like the full length passenger cars.) LHS used sections, eBay, etc… are all good areas to look for these.
Well, ive took in all of you advice and thought about it so here is the list i made up for each of y’all.
I could fit in a 9x5, but the problem is, its im my bedroom, my family does not have space in the basement sadly, but ill look into it! (it may need a whole new planning, but i may be able to fit it in!)
I looked for IHC and rivarossi cars on ebay, most of them are not what im looking for. I’m still checking it out though, but i may take advice and look around for those types of cars!
I am open to used stuff, and thats how i got the f7 no. 1400 off ebay!
i looked for harriman ho scale, and there is a set for 154$ that is painted in union pacific glory.
So, yes i am getting a zepher, but sooner or later upgrade my layout (or next layout) to the full dcc for multiple trains
Thanks,
UP
Sounds like you have a large bedroom! 5X9 is definitely better for passenger trains. Keep in mind that it will be difficult to reach some items if you place your layout against a wall…
The Zephyr is actually an excellent system that does allow for expansion. I’ve had mine for about 8 years, and it’s quite robust and sufficient for my around-the-wall 11 X 7 layout. I can run three locos at the same time no problem with it.
Simon
yes i do have a large bedroom!
if anything, ill raise the rear of the layout so i can get to it easier.
Thanks,
UP
I have been there. My first HO scale STRATTON AND GILLETTE was about 2 by 8 and built above the dresser in my master bedroom. This worked very well, and I copied the plan for a switching layout from Model Railroader magazine.
When we moved to this house in 1999, I added 4 feet to the layout, but this did not add any operational fun, but more scenery.
Then I built a layout in a small bedroom. I changed the layout twice, but never had anything I really enjoyed. Everything was a compromise, and nothing was ever right.
That is my experience I can share. I hope you have success.
-Kevin
Union Pacific observation cars, It depends on timeline in the 1950s. The UP got rid of them in 1956/57 for easy mid train lounges without end of the line rotation.
They started a little over a year after purchasing new Astra Dome coaches for their City and Challenger passenger trains in 1954.
perfect! im modelling late 1955!
Update!
i finally got my decoder installed. But when I got it on the track, the wheels were sooty.
so i tried cleaning it off with isopropyl alcohol, but it barely came off. It is front truck drive, with rear pickups, so, does anyone have a good cleaner?
(it has little flanges to pickup from the wheel to the wires. Its an old Life-Like loco)
Thanks,
UP
Laquer thinner, but you don’t want to get that on your skin or a brass brush in a Dremel.
I like using a toothpick for these cases, removing the soot with the wheels spining, the loco on its back.
Simon
Wood works very well for this task. Hard enough to scrape but won’t mark the metal.
Track cleaning fluid works well to loosen stubborn deposits.
Nail polish remover (acetone). Should work since it is a strong solvent
shane
Its also very flammable so not recommended where any sparking is possible. The vapours are also quite toxic. I only use acetone outdoors or in a well ventilated area in my garage. Neoprene mechanics gloves are recommended.
I use denatured alcohol. I soak a small portion of white cotton cloth and place it on the rails and run the loco in place over that soaked small portion of white cotton cloth. Works like a charm - - every time.
Rich
Thank you all!
i think i might try out some lacquer thinner.
Also, when i tested my train out on the club layout, i had constant power but no motor spinning. Its not the motor wire connections, we checked those again and again.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks,
UP
any one have
How are you testing the motor wire connections? If you are applying rail power directly to the two motor lead wires and the motor is not spinning, are the other ends of those two motor lead wires solidly connected to the motor itself? If so, there is a problem with the motor.
Rich