New Walthers turnouts going bad?

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

Has anyone experienced problems with the new Walthers DCC-friendly code 83 turnouts suddenly going bad? I’ve had two go bad this week and a new one out of the box that was no good. [banghead] Examining each one, it appears that the small metal strips transferring power between the rails are poorly soldered in place and are turning loose. I’m not real sure how to handle this as the strips are embedded in the underside of the ties and any soldering attempt on my part will melt the entire tie. [%-)] It’s a good thing I hadn’t gotten around to ballasting these yet!

These were all bought at one time so it might just be a bad batch. Having paid so much for them, I’d expect better quality than this. [V] Has anyone else noticed this problem?

2

Oh don’t tell me that! I was telling a friend just this weekend how much I liked the Walther’s dcc friendly turnouts… more than my Pecos… and was thinking about doing some replacing. Hopefully you got a bad batch and it’s not an epidemic. I too am glad you hadn’t ballasted them. Sorry for your trouble, wish I could help.

JaRRell

3

Yes on a #6 double crossover and a wye. I have a resistance system so the repair was easy but should not have had to be made. There was no solder on the jumper on the end that was not attached.

I have a #4 Atlas wye that has had it’s points destroyed by a Tortoise keeping the pressure on them.

4

I had a similar problem with some turnouts in the past that had a strip like that. The problem was fairly easy to correct. Radio Shack sell a solder that melts from the heat of a match. It comes in thin short strips. dab a little solder flux on the spot to be soldered, put a piece of a strip under it and put the contact strip over it. Touch the whole mess with a soldering iron and it’s done.

5

I’ve experienced that same problem with many of the Walthers DCC friendly turnouts I’ve purchased. If you’re using DCC for your layout, there really isn’t a problem if you provide a feeder leg to each side of the turnout. The power gets routed back to the frog via the rail joiners. It looks to me that they are using a micro-spot welder to put those little strips on and it’s been hit and miss on their efforts.

Just drop a feeder to your bus and it’s a non-issue.

Don Z.

6

Unfortunately, I’m using DC and both of the turnouts are at block cut off points. Maybe I can work around it somewhere. If nothing else I could melt a tie and hide it in the ballast.

Jeff–do you know the name of the low temp solder you wrote about? That sounds like my best option.

Other than that, I’m sure that I’m switching turnout brands. It seems that these type have been nothing but trouble from back when they were manufactured by Shinohara to their rebirth as an improved Walthers product. I’m thinking of going back to using the Tellig-Pilz code 83 Elite turnouts. I’ve never had one go bad and they are exceptionally smooth.

7

I don’t remember the name of it, but if you tell the people at Radio Shack that it’s made to melt with a match, they should know what you’re talking about.

8

Hi,

I just installed one of those “DCC Friendly” turnouts myself and noticed how the soldering was a little flimsy. If I have a problem with the turnout, rather than pulling it up and trying to re-solder the metal strip, I will just drill holes next to the turnout through the benchwork and add 22 gauge feeders to the sides of the rail. If done properly, the wires next to the turnout won’t be noticeable.

Hope this helps.

Mondo

9

Thanks for posting about these I have a few in the box just waiting to be put in when the upper layer is being done. Now I know I need to resolder them before I do anything with them. Again thanks. Oh one more questions do you think a small pencil soldering tip should be abe to do this task?

10

Yes, I have had the same exact problem, on my #6 double crossover.

11

A pencil soldering tip would be excellent. If you have it, use it.

12

Radio Shack Solder Tape Strips - Part # 64-010 - $ 0.97

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062716&cp=&origkw=tape+solder&kw=tape+solder&parentPage=search

13

That’s it, that’s the stuff I was talking about. You don’t have to use the whole strip, just cut off what you need.

14

Would’ nt atlas make a better turnout ?

15

I used to have this problem with Atlas turnouts. It’s the reason I stopped using them.

16

Atleast theres a forum like this letting everyone know this problem does accur. Now I have a 3 way of walthers havent had a problem been over a yr installed and a double slip which I havent really used but installed for 4 months tonight not a problem but I did notice on my #6 turnouts in the bax some of the strips look alittle lose so probably after tomorrow I will get to these.

17

Walthers (and Shinohara) beed to be notified, and allowed make good.

Production line problems like this (sloppy soldering) need to be corrected.

New products only need one careless assembly line worker to screw up weeks of shipped products. Do the Industry and your fellow modelers a favor, by phoning Walthers, to let them remedy.

The alternative is to solder yourself. http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htm

E Mails usually take weeks to read. (Some companies don’t bother).

18

Thanks! I needed that to explain to the overly pushy, know nothing sales person at my local Radio Shack what I wanted. [:)]

19

You mean like, “You need any Batteries today? Our batteries are far superior to any other on the market and cheaper too. You sure you don’t need any batteries? Well if you do I hope you will come back down here and buy our superior, cheaper batteries. Look, if you buy them now you will save gas…” We must go to the same store… LOL

20

Are you really, really, REALLY sure you don’t need a new cellphone? That is what I used to get at my local Radio Shack(now closed). [:)]