How new?? Very, Just been reading about trains for about a month now.
This does not seem to be helping me with my questions because the more I read the more I get confused. So, I could read for the next 2 yrs on modeling and learn the things i need to start, but I dont want to. I want to start planning my layout now. So I will try a different approach. (can only guess what kind of fussing this will lead to) I will ask you to help me to get started.
I want to go with HO because it is most popular, so easy to get stuff
Big layout, nice details but simple. Dont care for moving cars, lights, bunch of electrical gadgets .
I want to buy the trains (maybe 8 sets) and tracks. Set them up on the floor to the layout I want to make sure it works and then build my table or bench(what ever its called)
I will most likely go with the type of train in the first link above.
I want to keep the cost to a mimnum so need for top of the line fancy stuff
the main question to start with is:
What does it take to put say 4 of these trains on one track and 4 on the other with 1 controllers for each track (I dont know what i am talking about. need help with this)
ANY help or questions with anything I have just stated above will be very much appreciated.
Welcome to Model Railroading and the Forum! Well like Philip said, your doing the right thing by asking questions. I started out by asking questions and this forum has helpem me out more than youll ever know. Because at least you know the people here are real! Well i did notice one thing. I would at least get yourself a piece of plywood to put your sets on before you test run it. That will keep your rails completely flat. But it does seem like a smart idea. But you do have to choose it you want to buy a set… or go with buying individual equipment. Thats your call, but when you ahve questions… thats what were all here for! once again… welcome!
First, if if don’t have anything in the way of model railroad equipment, I would buy a set.
Personally I would get an Athearn set as the track & power pack inside are decent as well as the loco & cars.
Step 2. get a 4x8 piece of plywood & support it properly so there will be now sags in it.
This would be the fastest way to set something up. No sense building something grand & complex first as you might get bored with it & give up.
Step 3, continue reading about & asking questions concerning model railroading.
There are a lot of people here with varying degrees of knowledge & opinions to help you out.
Welcome. We all were new at least once. This is my 5th beginning. The sights you referred to were long time atrists. No one starts there. Have a vision but start with MUCH less. As Texan soldier suggests. buy an engine you really like, a couple of cars, some track and learn how to set it up and make it work. Then buy a few kits and see if you really like putting them together. The good stuff is not platic, but either lasercut wood or “Craftman”. Get a Cambel kit or a JV and see if you like the effort it takes to get a nice building. Try weathering a car. By then you will know a little more about what you like and what is merly a chore.
Keep asking questions and share your work. I hope you learn to like this as much as we do, and learn what parts you do not like so you don’t invest a ton in stuff that irritates you. See you soone I hope.
I am celebrating 1 year in model railroading this month. I started exactly as described above. 4x8 layout. I experimented with DC then DCC. I learned how to setip DCC controlled track switches both Solenoid and Motor driven. I learned how to program my locomotive. Now my 20 foot by 12 foot shelf mounted living room layout is near completion. It includes over and undermounted Motor driven turnout control, fully integrated signaling, 6 foot bridges to span room openings and fully detailed scenery with mult-tiered track routes. I am really pleased with the way things turned out but it took loads of research and experimentation and foreplanning. However, I always tested something out on the 4x8 first so I could fully understand its application when I committed to the larger layout. All the best, Pat Sirk
Thanks for the replies! one main question… how do you highlight what someone has said and put it into the post like is seen in almost all replies where someone wants to repeat what someone else said?
pcarrell, thanks for the link! lots of info there(ill be reading for a while) but it is still a bit confusing, they need examples to what they are explaning. Ill keep studying.
Texansoldier, I dont think I want to buy a set. I read that the sets are kinda crapy. But I dont know, like I said, I want something cheep but not too cheep that it falls apart. Is it cheeper to buy a set or all the parts in the set? Anyone know what is a good buy or brand on a loco or set that looks like the trains in the western movies? Are these types more expensive than the diesel locos of today?
CP5415, I do have an old track set made by Tyco or Bachmann that still works but it is simple. Meaning it will do a figure 8 or oval. I will check into the sets that you mentioned.
ARTHILL well i didnt want to buy buildings or kits. I am going to hand build everything. Just to say I built it and to keep cost down. I can handle the “chore” of the buildings because I know that it will look good in the end. But Iam not in a hurry to detail it out, I just want to see some trains moving around the floor or on my tables around the room. Then get to the nitty gritty of building and scenery.
Gambino what exactlly is swaped out when swapping from dc to dcc? The loco, the controller, the track or all?
donwan8, to highlight a previous post or reply, just go to the post and in the top right hand corner click on the quote button, this will automatically copy that post in to the body of your reply.
BTW, as said earlier this is probably the best thing you did by asking questions on this forum. I have only been here a short time and I have gleened an immense amount of information. I can honestly say I haven’t been steered wrong yet. Plus I have gotten questions answered without even asking them by simply surfing back through the posts.
You have some ambitious plans. I am a newbee as well. I started a 4 x 8 layout a year ago. I think I am half-way done. I work on it pretty consistently–a couple nights a week and eight to twelve hours per weekend.
A good gage for your time/money is $50-$100 per square foot and 50 hours per square foot. You can cut that down a lot if you scratch build everything, but your time will go up proportionally.
Considering the above, it makes sense to plan your layout well. It also makes sense to start with a small expandible layout. In the last Model Railroad Planner (currently availible on the shelves) Iain Rice suggest working on 30" by 6 foot sections that can be expanded into to larger layout.
The point is no matter where your are now with your interests, as a beginner, you will narrow your focus and interests as you build. Until you know what you want, it stands to reason that anything you build now, will not be where your interests lay.
Start small, and make your mistakes on a small scale.
SpaceMouse,
Good info, as stated by others about starting small. OK
1st main question: If i want multiple trains on multiple tracks, what do I look for in a loco? Do I need dcc for this? or DC? what kind of controller? What else?
I have a bachmann HO loco (has #866 on side of loco, yellow union pacific with 8 sets of wheels, horn and lights work) will this work for ddc? Not the era I am looking for but good for experementing. I want a few switchers and a new loco(the steam train era) or maybe 2 to program to run on one track together.
What all do I need??? Keep in mind I have a small oval or figure 8 train set.
Ok, maybe more than one question. HA
Any input about any thing stated on any of the fourm listed here by anyone reading will help a lot. I need input input input!!![:)]
Ok, found something. Is this controller a good choice? It says up to 4 trains.
is there anything else i need for this to work?
TECH 4 280 DUAL POWER
Item # AB116
Price: $79.98
Can easily run 4 HO locomotives
Runs HO, N, TT, Z and other DC Scales. Two tech 4 units in one housing to control two trains in different blocks with common rail.
Features Include:
Dual controls
Accutec technology
Proportional Tracking Control
Directional control
Power light indicators
Futuristic, ergonomic design, rugged engineering resin housing
Master on-off switch
Fixed AC terminals for accessories
UL listed
5-year limited warranty
Ok, since I got no replys from my late post I went back to reading and searching for weeks and weeks it seems like (3 days) and found that I need a lot more to control 8 trains. http://www.tonystrains.com/ (a link someone helped me to find) gave a lot of good info on DCC . Going by what they say, I need a digitrax Zephyr to control up to 10 trains.
The only part I dont understand is “MU capabilities”. The other dcc systems say 120,256 or 506. Zephyr says “Same Address” what does this mean?
The starter system "Includes: DCS50 Command Station/Booster/Throttle combination, PS315 Power Supply, LT1 LocoNet Tester, Easy to Read Manuals. " All for $160.00. I assume this is a good buy, but just checking to be sure?
Next is decoders, I still got to do some research but tonys recomends the "Digitrax DS54 "
Even with a small layout, you can still utilize the advantages of DCC. The Digitrax Zephyr is a very good starter system and would be a good choice. It uses a console-type command station, but you could add wireless later on, if you should desire to go that route. The Zephyr also has the advantage of allowing you to use up to 2 DC power packs as additional throttles. NCE also makes a nice starter system called the Power Cab. It is a tethered walk around, with the command station, booster, and throttle all rolled up into one. At discount, the Power Cab is about $10-20 cheaper. The Power Cab is upgradeable, like the Zephyr.
Advantages of the Zephyr over the Power Cab:
Ability to run one DC (or non-decoder) locomotive on your layout
Ability to use up to 2 DC power packs as additional throttles (see above)
Ability to call up more than 2 trains from your recall stack
Higher amps (2.5 vs. 1.7) = run more trains
Advantages of the Power Cab over the Zephyr:
Walk around (albeit tethered) throttle
Intuitive controls
Additional power available on programming track for programming sound decoders
Both are good systems and both have there advantages and disadvantages.
MU means the capability to run trains in “multiple units” or consists (also known as lashing up). You can run two or more trains together as one unit, rather than trying to configure each train individually so that one isn’t pushing or pulling another.
As far as decoders are concerned, it depends on the locomotive and what the decoder is capable of. You can also use other manufacturer’s decoders (e.g. NCE, Lenz, MRC, etc.) with the Zephyr. Any decoder that is NMRA (National Model Railroad Association) compliant will be able to run with any NMRA compliant DCC system.
I’ve run 5 trains at once on my 5 x 8 using a Zephyr. I have a walk around throttle that can be added to the system. A guy in our club has a Zephyr and we have run 10 trains on his–three of which were sound.
Your Bachman, unless it is a Spectrum, is probably not worth working on especially if you are planning a different era. For $30 at a train show you can get a Bachman with DCC installed that will be a decent runner.
Avoid planning your layout in EZ track. While it is easy to get started, I’ve had numerous problems and in the end, I’ve put a LOT of work into making it function well and look good. Even so, the turnouts still need work. Figure on using the flex track from the beginning. Use your EZ track as a way to run trains while you build your layout.
Two good books to start with are:
Track Planning for Realistic Operations by John Armstrong and Mid-sized and Manageable Track Plans by Iain Rice.
Also, just because plywood comes in 4 x 8 sheets doesn’t mean your layout should be that shape. Here’s an article that discusses alternatives to the 4 x 8. The layouts suggested would also work better in incorporating your larger empire–so you won’t be duplicating your efforts as you grow.
As for your engines, try not to invest too much until you are crystal clear on what era and roadname you want to model. In my mind, they are too expensive to sit around–although collectors will disagree.
If you want to run multiple trains on a regular basis, you’re probably better off going DCC at the beginning. DCC puts full power on the rails all the time, then uses a special control code added to the rail power that the locomotives can “read”. Each locomotive can be controlled as if it were the only one running on the track.
The power pack you found is for DC control. When you want the trains to move faster, you dial in more power to the track. All the trains share the power roughly equally. If one locomotive is faster than another, that train will catch up to and crash into the one in front of it unless you stop all the trains and do some maneuvering to increase seperation, by turning power off to one section of the track (using additional on-off switches between power pack and track). To run more than one train at a time, you need identical locomotives, or else you need to get lucky and have two different locos matched in speed.
If you wire up your track so that different areas are served by different DC power packs, you can run multiple
I’ll be a howler. There is tons of improvement that can be made in DCC. But it is still a quantum leap ahead of DC. The Zephyr is extremely expandible. Right now I have a few engines that run at different speeds.
I model 1885, and Jeff is right about engines being few and far between. So far, I’ve found that the MDC 2-6-0 and 2-8-0 are the only ready to run options that are DCC ready, and they are out of production (for now). The IHC 4-4-0 is doable with work, but you need to install an N scale decoder and redo the pick-ups in the tender. Sound will not work with any of them.
Althern Genesis is supposed to come out with an old-time 4-4-0 later this year with DCC and sound, but expect to pay well over $200 for it.
I have been railroading for around 2 years, but I’m still a little confused on some things. I have one operational layout, but I’m in the process of building another one, and I will continue to post things about it and I’ll have some tips about what I did if it goes good, but I need to get some money built up first, so it will be a SLOW process. Good luck!
My first advice is to slow down. You have some very ambitious plans, but to realize them (successfully) you’ll have to learn a lot about the hobby. Planning comes first; electronics, wiring, soldering, carpentry, painting, weathering, scenery design/building, working with plastic/metals/adhesives….did I mention planning?…these are all skills required to execute your well thought-out plan.
I don’t mean to douse your enthusiasm with a bucket of cold water and I’m still very new at this, but running a bunch of trains around on the floor may be a recipe for disaster – you may encounter so many running problems that you could be frustrated out of the hobby. This is the last thing I or anyone else here wants to see.
I started out with some big plans also, but this forum made me realize that I had to start small and acquire the necessary skills by doing, hence my 4 X 8 practice layout. I’m already running 3 locos in DCC, have encountered many problems that I would on a large layout, and fixed them with the help of many on this forum.
I don’t mean to preach, but you can drop a lot of bucks in this hobby if you’re not well-informed and still not have anything to show for it. I want to see you succeed. Hope this is taken in the right vein. Good luck.
Perhaps the right approach for you would be to do a semi-permanent layout. By that I mean build it in such a way that you can learn from it and not beat yourself up over any losses when (not if) you decide that you must go in another direction…if partially.
Virtually all of us, even the vaunted SpaceMouse, has learned something about this hobby the hard way. It so happens that I share his history to the extent that I made fundamental errors in my own haste to get to running trains. So, I now have an extra DC power pack, had to return and upgrade a seriously deficient DCC starter system, and like Mouse, I have scads of EZ-Track that will soon be added to the land fill. I am also, a whole year later, going to rip up all that carefully ballasted and weathered track and do it right with flextrack pieces and hard-won soldering experience.
Many members here wisely urge newcomers to get a piece of plywood up (off the floor, please), and set up something to let you have fun when you are bummed or need a break. It should not be in the way of others in the home, and certainly not occupy any of your intended layout space. Then, as has been suggested, make up your mind that you must do about 30 hours of solid reading and note-taking. Keep a list of questions in that notebook, and get them answered here if need be.
At some point, you will get that rush of intuition, energy, and drive which will be a signal of confidence and understanding. At that point, go to the hardware store and the train shops.