I’m getting back into the model railroard hobby and am starting with a 4 x 8 Grand Valley set from Woodland Scenics but am removing the two switchouts that are part of the layout kit. It’ll just be a single track with a 30° crossover but would like to reserve the right to putting the two switchouts back into the layout if I so desire. I plan to not have more than 2 trains on the tracks at the same time. My question has to do with getting a basic DCC starter set.
Are the Bachman E-Z Command or NCE PowerCab starter sets are good start? Are they just that easy to operate - plug and play? Would any of you prefer one over the other or suggest alterative commanders? Also, how to program tracks work? Are they like all other 9" straights but I need a toggle switch (whatever that is) to isolate the track when programming the engine?
i’ll hang up now and listen to your responses,
-timmer
This is what I got started with in DCC and it has proven to be a versatile and easy to use system that I have already built upon (Added wireless and a walk around throttle). Also, if you have some DC power packs you have been using, you can hook these to the Zephyr to make 2 additional throttles for running DCC equiped trains. Zephyr as well as the NCE systems can be found for less money a places like www.litchfieldstation.com
The Bachmann E-Z Command is a basic, no-frills, inexpensive DCC system that won’t crunch the pocket book, but it is limited. It only has 1-amp of max. output - meaning, you will only be able to run just a couple of locomotives at a time (i.e. HO - more if you are running N), and you won’t be able to adjust any of the configuration variables (CVs) with it. But, for a 4 x 8, it worked just fine for me. I found mine online for $53. The Bachmann is not upgradeable.
I just got the NCE PowerCab a week and a half ago and like it very much. The PowerCab is 1.7 amps but you can tweak the CVs to make your locomotives run more prototypically. One big advantage the PowerCab has over the E-Z Command: If I should ever decide to upgrade or expand, I can always use my PowerCab as an extra throttle on the NCE Power Pro system. Cost: $140, discounted.
Program tracks are tracks that are specifically designated for programming the addresses and CVs of your decoder. They can either be an isolated track on your layout - such as a spur or siding - or a separate track altogether. The reason for the programming track is to isolate the commands to that specific locomotive when addressing. If you program or address a locomotive’s decoder on the main, you run the risk of addressing all the other decoders on the layout to the same address or parameters.
Another reason for the programming track is that there usually is much less current sent to the programming track from you command station for programming a decoder. This helps to ensure that you don’t fry your decoder accidentally with a burst of full power if you wired it in wrong.
Timmer, my programming track is made up of 3 sections of 9" sectional track tacked down on a 1 x 4. I use an Atlas #205 3-button ON/OFF connector as my “toggle”.
While I also recommend the Digitrax Zephyr system (I have one myself), I have to ask if you really need DCC. My general rule of thumb is that if you are only going to be running one train and/or one operator on your layout, then DCC is a luxury. If you plan to have multiple trains running and/or multiple operators, than DCC is a necessity. A 4’ x 8’ is not usually a layout to have multiple operators and trains on it. Not that it’s impossible, but is it neccessary for your enjoyment? If so, then get DCC. If not, I would hesitate to recommend DCC (unless you are a gadget person that likes bells and whistles…literally).
A program track on the Zephyr is an isolated piece of track. Mine is a section of track that’s not attached to any other track, and it’s hardwired into the programming track terminals on the back of the Zephyr. No toggle required.
However, you can make your programming track part of your layout. Connect it to the rest of your layout with isolated rail joiners, and run wire from it to the center posts of a DPDT toggle. Then run wire from one end pair of posts of the DPDT to the programming terminals on the Zephyr, and another pair of wires to the track power terminals of your Zephyr. Now depending on how you throw the toggle, this isolated piece of track will be either a running track or a programming track.
To top this all off, you don’t have to use the programming track at all. You can program your locos right on the mainline with a Zephyr using what they call “Ops Mode” programming. However, the only problem with that is that there is no way to find out what’s on the decoder you’re programming. That’s the major advantage of a programming track. If you want to know what the address is of a loco, you can put it on the programming track and read it.
I can think of some good reasons to run DCC with only one train / operator at a time: loco performance and features.
If you want the ability to independently tune each loco’s performance so it is the best it can be, DCC allows you to do that – DC does not. Oh, you can tweak the mechanism a bit, but most modern locos run fairly well out of the box such that mechanism tweaks won’t buy you much – unless you are into remotoring and regearing for swiss clock performance.
You can also get some more features like momentum, which can add to the realism as long as you don’t overdo it with DCC. You get constant lighting, which you can turn on or off at will, or you can get cool lighting effects like gyralights, rotating beacons, even ditch lights.
And then there’s wireless control. It doesn’t get much better than this … [swg]
And finally, there’s sound. DCC is the arena where the most is happening these days with sound, so if you want to go with sound in a way that future options will remain open and growing, DCC is the way to go.
You can get many of these things to some degree with DC, but you’ll end up buying a premium powering system and you’ll pay as much or more than what it would cost you to just go DCC.
And of course, when your friends and relatives come over for a visit, if you have invested in a second throttle just in case, you’re all set. Put another train on the track, hand 'em a throttle, and go for it!
The best advice i can give as others gave me. Do your homework & read as much as you can. The only good system is the one that is right for you & your needs. I just went to dcc, i got the MRC Prodigy Express $99.95 from Micro-marks, still this price in there latest catalouge. You can program on the main with no problem because you call up the loco you want. You can even do this will another train is running. It is expandable. I am only running 2 trains now, maybe 3 with a switcher in the future. It was very easy to hook up and understand. I love it & i am very pleased with it. It was rigth for me. Hope this gives you some more help in your decission. Good luck.
Can someone post some illustrations showing how a programming track wiring etc is created. Preferably one that is not connected to your main. I’m a visual learner.
I’m surprised more people do not create mini movies of say a decoder install or the creation of a Ho scale bridge. I see some potential for people to learn a lot more from actually seeing a process from start to finish. Nothing to crazy with say background music or something.
Sorry this got a bit off topic. I was having trouble following some of the posts.
One of the nice features of the NCE Powercab is that it is handheld. It comes with a 6 wire 7 foot cord with phone style plugs at each end.
If you mount the power panel at the end of your 4x8, you can access both sides of your layout easily with the controller in your hand. Or if you want a second controller, the power panel has a slot to connect a 2nd controller to it.
I just got mine last week and I love it!
As far as hooking it up and running, you are looking at about 10 to 15 minutes.
I don’t have a diagram to show you but if you use the picture below and your imagination, I think you’ll be able to see this.
Two insulated wire, that are connected to your command station, will be connected to the shiny contacts on the left side of the Atlas connector - i.e. those directly to the left of the yellow switches. The wires will wrap around screws (not pictured) and tightened down. You NOW have power going to your Atlas connector.
What you can do next is to direct or cut power to any of the three switch contact sets by moving the yellow slide button up or down. Pick one of the three slide buttons to use and attach an insulated wire to each one of the contacts directly above that button. These wires will be attached to your programming track: Hence, one wire will be attached to one rail; one wire to the other rail. (You can either solder them to your track yourself or buy rail joiners that have the wires already soldered on for you.) You are NOW connected to your programming track.
To use your programming track, slide all but the programming track slide button to the OFF position. The programming track button should be slid to the ON position. Turn your DCC system on. Place your locomotive on your programming track. You are
Someone has made videos (me), and I’m a big advocate of how-to shorts for people who believe a moving picture is worth 10,000 words (if a still picture is worth a 1000 words, then a movie should be worth at least 10 times more …)
If you want to know more, just click the link in my signature. I’m also working on downloadable video shorts with another party … you’ll find out more about that in the weeks ahead.
All the Atlas #205 connector does is divert or shut OFF power to your various sections or portions of track. This way you can power or unpower a particular or specific section of track, turn it either ON or turn it OFF, and not effect the rest of the layout. You’ll need to isolate those sections of track with insulated joiners.
But the point is you don’t have to have DCC in order to get those results. Some people do like fiddling with locos, use lapping compound in the gear boxes, re-doing the drive line, etc. Just like some people like to build models vs. buying RTR… And as you said, modern locomotives work so good out of the box, why tweak or fine tune them in the first place?
Almost all of that can also be achieved with straight DC. Momentum…heck, that’s been around forever it seems. Constant directional lighting…I was doing that a decade ago in DC. Special lighting effects…I know of a couple different companies that used to offer items like that for DC. Now, no argument that DCC is simply better at doing all of the above, but you can do it with DC at some level.
C’mon, there’s been tons of wireless control systems over the years for DC. Infrared, radio, what-have-you. My club used to have an IR setup back in the 1980’s, and the Aristo radio DC throttle has been around for over 10 years. Again, I think DCC does it better, but you don’t need DCC to have wireless control.
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QUOTE: And finally, there’s sound. DCC is the arena where the
