Newbie? How would you rank HO Mfg's.?

I apologize if this is in anyway a repeat of previous posts, but I am new to the HO hobby. I am most interested in the early-to-mid 20th century steam powered trains, and am confused by all the different manufacturers out there.

I am interested in learning from those knowledgeable here who the better manufacturers of steam engine/tender combos are in HO. I am interested in creating a layout reflecting pre-WWII that would be on the rural side. I see Atlas, Athern, Bachmann, etc. but have no way of knowing how these (and other) manufacturers may rate in producing a good product. I want to start a layout and don’t want to buy equipment that I will be disappointed in when it comes time to start running. At the same time, I don’t want to go broke buying the best equipment available, but I am 63 years old and can afford (I think) some good equipment.

If anyone can rank (in their opinion) the various HO steam locomotive and tender combinations on the market, I sure would appreciate it! Also, if anyone believes there is a good “set” to start out with, I’d like to hear about those as well. I know what I am asking is at some point a subjective question, and again, I apologize if this has been covered before.

Thanks in advance for any input!

Thumper26

Before anyone can really offer advice you need to state your preference if you want want to run DC or DCC power also would you want sound engines?

Another factor needed before specific engines would be the size of your layout. Smaller layouts would of course be best suited with the smaller engines. There are some very reasonable priced engines in the marketplace to suit every need.

I would suggest you first research a trackplan for the space you have to commit to your HO layout.

Ok here is my opinion - in the time period specified. The rural part doesn’t help decide on locomotives since a heavy mainline could run through urban or rural… On the other hand if you mean you want the railroad to be a smaller branch line type… I think Trix is definitely the best but the other three are questionable as to which would be better than the next. Probably locomotive specific.

TRIX -
2-8-2 Light USRA Mikado

Bachmann Spectrums -
2-8-0 Consolidated
4-8-2 USRA Mountain
4-4-0 American
4-6-0 Ten Wheeler
2-10-0 Russian Decopod

Proto-2000 -
0-6-0 USRA switcher
0-8-0 USRA switcher
2-8-4 Berkshire (careful some Berkshires were “modern super steam”).
2-8-8-2 Mallet
2-10-2 heavy USRA

BLI
2-8-2 light Mikado
2-8-2 heavy Mikado
4-6-2 USRA heavy Pacific (not released yet)
4-8-4 (Santa Fe type) Northern would be modern for what you’ve specified
2-10-2 (Santa Fe type - getting pretty modern)
2-10-4 (Santa Fe type - getting modern)

cheaper stuff but OK

IHC Premier Gold Series-
2-6-0
4-4-0 Modern American
2-8-2 Mikado
4-6-2 USRA heavy Pacific
4-6-2 USRA light Pacific
2-10-2 (getting pretty modern)

I believe that Bachmann makes a Spectrum Set called the “Frontiersman”. It contains a 2-8-0

I’ll go out on a limb here and say that there’s no one “best” manufacturer; they all have pros and cons – generally a balance between detail / performance and cost. I don’t run DCC (yet) so I can’t say whether that affects the issue or not.

For my money, in a DC loco, Atlas Trainman and Athearn are good basic, low cost options (<$100). Atlas (non-Trainman), Proto 1000 from Life-Like (Walthers) and Bachmann’s Spectrum line are a good blend of detail, performance and reasonable cost ($100-200), and Athearn’s Genesis line and Life-Like’s Proto 2000 line are excellent locos in the next price bracket ($200+). While it’s possible to spend a lot more for a loco (and DCC on-board – as opposed to “DCC ready” – will add about $75 to the price, I just can’t see paying that much for a loco. I’d be afraid of breaking it.

I’d stay away from train sets. They tend to have cheap cars, hook and horn couplers, and lousy engines. Decide what road and era you want to model (or invent your own) and buy your rolling stock and locos a la carte so that you don’t wind up with a lot of stuff that doesn’t fit.

Of course, the next 250 people to post will have a totally different opinion, but that’s my [2c].

Wow, so much to think about! Thanks to every one who has replied so far. I believe I’d like to go dcc (not likely with sound) with maximum radius curves of 33"-36" with most likely a minimum radius of 22" on the layout which I am currently planning. The overall size will need to fit on a 5’x10’ benchtop and I do plan on incorporating at least 2, or maybe 3 tiers of running track with some moutainous terrain.

With this added information, if there are any more recommendations anyone can make, I’d sure appreciate it!

Thanks again to all who responded,

Thumper26

For the period you want to model (which you are the first person I have come across who has a clear idea of what you want to do) you probably will not have multiple sources for the same wheel arrangement. So it will be a take it or leave it situation. Kind of like if you want a Corvette it is going to be a Chevy. In my case of the PRR nearly all the major classes were developed by 1920 so the following classes are viable: 4-4-2, 4-6-0, 4-6-2, 2-8-0, 2-8-2, 4-8-2, and 2-10-0 all of which are available and would require some backdating for your era. The only one available from multiple sources is the 4-6-2.

All the “name” model manufacturers produce good HO models. There is a price/preformance tradeoff, for more money you get a more detailed model, perhaps with DCC decoders or DCC plus sound decoders factory installed. Any model that appeals to you will be a good choice. As far as quality control, reliability, and pulling power, all the “name” makers offer a very satisfactory product.

“Name” makers are Athearn, Proto 2000, Walthers, IHC, Mantua, BLI, Roundhouse, Bachmann, Accurail, Roundhouse, Model Power, and probably a few more that I forget. You won’t go wrong with rolling stock from any of these companies.

DCC decoders cost $25 and up and you need to put a decoder into each locomotive. DCC is very effective at operating multiple locomotives at the same time. This implies you have an operating session with multiple operators. For a home layout with just one operator, DCC doesn’t do much (except raise your costs).

Thumper,

Do you have a particular road that you are interested in modeling? Or, will you have several roads represented on your layout?

Personally, I would avoid purchasing “sets” and just concentrate on purchasing good locomotives and individual pieces/parts like track and power packs/DCC systems. Also, be sure to check out M.B. Klein for finding good deals on locomotives.

Tom

It can be hard to answer, but generally for steam BLI/PCM and Bachmann Spectrum are good. Life Like / Proto has gotten good reviews by some folks, I had some problems with some of their early steam engines so have tended to shy away from them.

FWIW since you’re building a relatively small layout, I would reconsider sound, esp. since you mention going for DCC. Rather than buying a number of engines, I would lean towards getting a couple of good ones with DCC and Sound already factory-installed. The BLI/PCM engines have an advantage in that their “chuff” is controlled by a cam or something similar to it’s good to go out of the box, with Spectrum they use a very good sound decoder but you have to set the chuff rate to get it close to matching the drivers. It’s not that hard (I’ve done it a couple of times) but it takes a while to get it just right.

BTW I would go for as large a min radius as you can, even on a 5 x 10 you can do 26"R curves.

I second the opinion about using as large a radius as you can fit. I did mine with 22" minimum because I wanted a dogbone with continuous running options, and that was the largest I could fit in the space. All my equipment (mid-sized steam 2-6-2, 2-8-0, 4-6-2; early diesels, and an E33, as well as some 80’ passenger cars) will corner just fine, but some of it looks a little off, even on curves that broad.

I certainly appreciate all of the great feedback I’m getting from everyone here while I try and get myself up to speed on DCC!

I have no real particular roads that I want to model, but rather, a time period between the late 1920’s to the very early 1950’s. My plan is to incorporate small towns, flat-lands, and mountains. I will be running a passenger line as well as freight lines, and I am beginning to realize that I will have to expand my original idea of a 5’ x 10’ layout to a 6’ x 14’, but that’s about all I’ll be able to squeeze in (although I believe I will be able to add a small dogleg off one of the 6’ ends).

As previously mentioned, I am aiming for at least 3 tiers on my eventual footprint and I agree with those who have recommended to go with the largest radius track where I can. The more I am learning from all of you, the more I believe I may buy “DCC equipped” but begin the layout with DC operation since I am learning that there are locomotive/tender combinations that allow this.

I have purchased the Bachmann Spectrum Baldwin 2-8-0 for the passenger line and I am presently looking at the Bachmann 2-10-0 Russian Decapod to begin my freight business (I love the history of them that I have read so far). If I do get a 2-10-0, the larger radius track will be a must! I believe starting out with two lines will be a great start and provide variety in setting up the scenes, but there will be other consists, switchers, and maybe another passenger line to follow. It all seems overwhelming when considered in total, but I learned a long time ago to take such projects a “bite” at a time (although I may be “stuffing my mouth” starting with two lines[%-)]).

Thanks again to everyone for the great information that I hope keeps on coming - let me know what you think of the Bachmann Spectrum 2-10-0 Decapod for my freight line!

Thumper26

You might be surprised there. The Russian Decapod is relatively tiny for a ten coupled loco.

After several of my friends got the 2-10-0, I wanted one for my own. I finally scored on eBay just about two weeks ago and got one with sound for $143.00 (including the shipping).

Thumper26

The Spectrum 2-10-0 is more or less the same overal length as the 2-8-0. The 2-10-0 is a good engine but for freight I would consider the Spectrum 2-10-2. This engine is on sale right now with DCC at

http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/category_s/1728.htm

The engine has a right up on the review section of this web page (provided you are a Model Railroad subscriber) .

Sounds like you’re getting everything planned out pretty well. Just make sure you don’t overwhelm yourself with too much to do (it’s happens very easily).[:D]

Those Bachmann Spectrums should serve you very well. I have the 2-8-0, 2-10-0, and 0-6-0T, and they’re all fantastic.[:D] The 2-10-0, believe it or not, is actually a bit smaller than the 2-8-0, but it still pulls enough to be a decent freight engine. Mine can make it around an 18" radius and barely look awkward doing it.

Here are some detailed reviews I’ve done over the years. They might help to give you a better look at what you’re getting and what else is out there.[:D]
Spectrum 2-8-0
Spectrum 2-10-0
Spectrum 0-6-0T
Stewart S-12
IHC 2-8-2
Athearn Genesis F3A
Proto 2000 E7A

I think they should all fit your era.[:)]

Don’t overlook brass. There are some excellent offerings in the era you favor. Offhand I recall a very nice CB&Q 4-6-0 and the PRR H6 2-8-0 models for example. Some will tell you that brass is too expensive, but really, prices range from affordable to WOWSER!! One nice thing about brass is that it keeps its value. Also you will find models that are available nowhere else. Another example that popped into mind would be the Ma and Pa 2-8-0 and 4-6-0 imports.

Here are some links to brass dealers http://www.brasstrains.com/home.php (Dan’s Train Depot), http://thecaboose.com/ (The Caboose) and http://www.caboosehobbies.com/catalog/index_brief.php (Caboose Hobbies). Just visiting their sites is a feast for the Model Railfan, so give them a look even if you don’t want to buy. This last one is one of my favorites http://www.bcenterpriseinc.com/ (Bill Callahan’s BC Enterprises)

Thumper,

If you can get your hands on a Trix 2-8-2 Mike, you’ll have yourself a winner. Unfortunately, they aren’t being produced any longer and the folks on eBay want an “original” arm and a leg for them. For me, they are the best locomotive out there - both detail and running-wise. I particularly love the throaty chuff of the Loksound decoders.

Tom

Be careful with that advice. While it is good advice, the original poster specified early to mid century. The 2-10-2 was one of the first super steam era locomotives. It also would be a mainline locomotive not for a branch or back-woodsie railroad as I thought was implied by the original poster.

The 2-10-2 by Spectrum is the 1918 URSA version. Fits the time frame fine for Pre WWII . I remember seeing pictures of the grain trains for both CNR and CPR and they used some of their heavier engines for those trains, In fact that is what the Selkirks ended up pulling during their final days. Their were a lot of the large CPR 2-10-0’s and 2-10-2’s working the secondary lines.

Well, in honor(?) of the Bolshevik’s and Czar Nicholas II (what a dreadful fate!), I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a Bachmann Spectrum Decapod that is DCC ready to start my freight line. Just the sight of this locomotive blows me away! The choice was tough between it and a 2-8-2, but I was too fascinated with the 2-10-0 not to get one. I am sure a 2-8-2 will be in my future plans, but to start out I’ll be using the 2-10-0 Spectrum by Bachmann for.

I now have to begin my benchwork as I contemplate the track to use. I am torn between using E-Z track and one where I would apply my own ballast (though I am not wanting to lay my own individual rails and ties).

Again, I’ll be building a 6’ x 14’ layout with 3 tiers of track and “creating” my own small towns, flat lands, and mountainous terrain. I know that everyone’s take on the track they use, as many other things in this hobby, can be very subjective, but I’d sure like to hear anyone’s recommendation(s) on the track they feel I should use. Your help so far has been enormous, and I look forward to hearing about the best track to use from you.

Thanks again!