Im thinking of switching to DCC for HO. Out of the many companys, in your opinion, which is the best? Simplicity, Control, Price? How much does it cost to install a decoder? Thankyou, Bennett
I have the old original MRC-2000, I have a Digitrax Zephyr, and a Lenz LH100. For price and simplicity the Zephyr is hard to beat. It can be expanded later to add any features you find lacking. The thing I don’t like about the Zephyr is that is uses Loco Net insead of XpressNet like almost everything else. The wireless throttles by CVP that I use with the Lenz are fantastic and they can be used with any XpressNet system. Unfortunately there can only be 8 of them. The nineth+ men have to use wired throttles.
Don’t know what you mean by control… I like the utility throttles that control the train not the whole computer system. Hook a normal power pack to the jumper inputs on the Zephyr and it “controls” just like a normal DC train. If you mean control of the whole system people have written books trying to describe the differences. I like the control panels like CVP’s Easy DCC and the Zephyr have.
A decoder can be purchased for under $15 these days. How much someone charges to install it is a real wild card. Many decoders today can just be plugged in. On modern models it takes longer to take the shell off the model that it does to install the decoder. The decoder installation is going to be the same reguardless of which system you choose since they are interoperable. They all work with one another - that’s the whole point of standardization.
Ben:
Which DCC system is best? How do you define best ???
The cheapest/lowest price?
The simplist to learn/easiest to use?
The most features?
The easiest to install/expand?
The least amount of problems reported?
The most readily available (easy to find and buy)?
The best support?
There is no one system that is all of these things, so don’t just say yes to all these questions, because if you do the answer to all these questions will be “NO SYSTEM”. To get better answers, you need to define “best”.
And each of the above areas have sub areas that generate still more questions. Take the cheapest, for example.
Cheapest starter system?
Cheapest add ons?
Most features for the price?
Cheapest full-featured system?
Decoders
Ah, now that’s a bit easier to answer.
Fleet decoders (basic features, and priced so you can equip an entire fleet of locomotives with them and not break the bank) cost around $15-$20.
Full featured decoders (lots of motor control and lighting options) cost $25-$50.
Deluxe decoders (sound, lighting, the works) cost $75 - $150.
From everything I’ve read on these forums it seems that the very best DCC system is the one that uses the NMRA standard.
Good answer Dave!! Ben you really need to try before you buy all the systems have their ups and downs.
Ken.
They are all good in their own way. Some may be better for you than others. Your needs may not be the same as others. What do you want to do with the system?
How many locos?
How many opperators?
Size of layout?
Turnout control?
Walk around, stationary or wireless throttles, or combination?
Signalling/transponding?
etc…
We all have our opinion as to which is best. If you want to know which one more folks use, the answer will be Digitrax (I have this system and really like it) but it may not be the best solution for your needs.
This forum is filled with dozens of threads concerning the various DCC systems. I would at least review these threads and then start checking out some websites, such as Tony’s Train Exchange. Go out and see if you can actually get your hands on some of these systems either at LHS, shows, clubs, friends etc.
Before I decided what DCC system I wanted I did what Dave suggested. I went to a show and asked all the guys that were running club layouts what they prefered and why. I got some good answers and a little hands on experience that provided me with enough knowledge to go purchase the system that was best for me.
Also, the best DCC system may be the one most of the other modelers in your area are using, because then you get lots of local support, can take your favorite throttle to an op session, etc.
Okay, I now can safely state that this has got to be the BEST FORUM in MR!!! [^][:)][tup][tup]
Not one of you, so far, has said to get brand X because you have it and it works well. You have all indicated your experience, including some who have said that they use a certain brand with success, but you have all tempered your remarks with caveats and qualifications to encourage the orignator to do his own research based on a methodical inquiry.
My very warm regards to all of you.
Respectfully,
For your home system, be sure you get one that is the right price and one you can understand.
If you run at a club, it is best to get the same system as they are using so you are totally compatible when you operate with them.
Is anybody using Zimo MX1
See if your LHS will let you try out several at the store ( I know mine did). Alot depends on how comfortable you are with computers and following directions. I have a Digitrax system and am very happy with it. My 7 year old son has his own throttle (granted, a very basic one) but can run the system by himself.
As far as decoders go, if you can follow a diagram you can pretty much do it yourself. I would try an inexpensive engine and decoder first and work your way up.
Also remember you don’t have to go with the BMW model right off the bat. The Chevy will work just fine.
Good luck & have fun!
I ordered a Digitrax Zephyr and although I haven’t got it yet, or tried it, or tried anyone else’s, should get one too cause it is what I ordered.
Selector,[:-^]
(someone had to do it.)
Grrrrrrrr!
I bought a basic Prodigy (the original) system off Ebay because I got it for <$100.
However, my father-in-law is building a layout as well and has somewhat better funding.
It came down to EasyDCC and Digitrax Zephyr - both offered radio throttles as options, both offered throttles with large knobs for speed control (controller comfort is a big thing - hold as many different ones as you can).
The purchase was, the Zephyr with a radio module and a UT-4R thottle ended up being the best deal. It also had the advantage of relatively local hobby shop support.
But this might not be the case in your area or for your likes and dislikes.
Interesting response - when doing my own research I found that the Lenz satisfied that criteria. Further that Lenz actually had a hand in creating DCC.
That said - my advice, as others have said, is to do your research and find a system that is right for you - there are several good choices out there.
No one has yet mentioned the fact that the LENZ system is the only one that I have seen with a 10 year warrenty. Now I haven’t checked into it to see how limited the warrenty is…but the fact they say they will stand behind it for 10 years says a lot to me.
Thanks for everything, i did my own thing and i have come down to MRC and Atlas! Can anyone now tell me their opinion and experiences with these two? BTW, I will have a layout with reverse loops and possible double track main ( this layout is in the shape of an L along the wall) one wall is 11 feet and the other is 13 feet, I will have 3 feet in depth. I plan on running at the most 3 trains at a time, each with 2-3 engines. With that said, can you run a train with DCC with one DCC decoded loco, one DC loco, and a dummy all in the same consist? Also in the future, I would like to add sound. Thanks,Ben.
Atlas’ Commander is a rebadged Lenz Compact - it’s a good starter system. Main limitations are that it will only handle 2-digit addressing and F0-F4. Despite this, I like mine as it’s probably the best system available for the money. It can have a hand throttle plugged in if you want one, or you can use it as an auxiliary throttle on an XpressNet system.
Regarding fitting decoders, you can do this yourself with very little trouble - all you need are basic soldering skills and a multimeter to check the stall current (and also that the motor has been isolated on some trickier models). It’s very simple so long as you follow the instructions thoroughly and you’re unlikely to break anything - if you’re worried TCS offer a “goof proof” warrenty on their decoders where they’ll replace it if you make a mistake. It’s one of those jobs that gets easier every time you do it, as you begin to get a feel for how to wire the loco.
In response to your last question, I’m not sure if you can MU DC locos. Running a DC loco under DCC isn’t a good idea in the long term as there have been reports of damage occurring. Dummy locos will be unaffected by DCC though you could consider fitting metal wheels/pickups, a function-only decoder, and a working headlight/taillight to the dummy. Hope this is of help!