I’m not a railroad modeler but I find that a lot of the products help me build life-like displays for my 1/24 NASCAR diecasts. I am wanting to create realistic looking asphalt. In the past I used marble spray paint but now I want something better so I bought a Woodand Screnics Road System learning kit just to try it. I see that there are 2 top coats… 1 for asphalt and 1 for concrete. The track I am trying to model is the Indianapolis Motor Speedway which has weathered asphalt which has a greyish color to it. Is it possible to mix the asphalt and concrete top coats together to get a greyish color? Is there an easy way at getting a grey color? I read one post and they said to use chalk but I’d like a more permanent way of doing it… nothing that will rub off. Please help! 
You can always fix the chalk in place with something like DullCoat, or a chalk fixative found at artist supply shops. Regardless of whether you mix the compounds (which may or may not work - just try a bit first!) you will have to weather the speedway pavement itself unless you are going for that “just paved” look. You will need skids marks, heavier wear and tear on the line most often taken in the corners, etc, etc.
Just for interest’s sake - - how big is Indy in 1:24 scale?
Good luck!
Andrew
[8D]
I came up with 550 linear feet per lap.
[:D]
I just hope that Dustin is modelling/following someone more worthwhile than the 24 car !
[;)][;)]
I’m actually just making the start/finish line area with the yard of bricks lol… not the whole track… that would be insane.
But #24 is prettiest, more colourful and has flames.
Don’t forget the row of bricks! and the new ‘soft’ walls
I already have bricks I won’t be doing the soft walls cause they are only in the turns.
Dustin:
How about using chalk weathering powders Bragdon and others make them) mixed until you like the effect and then mixed into what you use for the paving material. I’d suggest the compound commonly used with dry wall tape to cover joints. It doesnt shrink as much as patching plaster. I suggest you make two applications. The second after 2 to 3 days drying time. The surface stands up well to sanding. You can simulate cracks with either a scribe and then a black pen traced into the ‘crack’ or with a detail brush and black paint.
Good luck
Randy
[8D]
Its relieving to see that Dustin has probably not chosen the wrong hobby.
After all; I can’t imagine being a modelrailroader if I was sane.
For example; my double track main line is more than 2.5 (scale) miles (one lap at Brickyard) – mind you that’s at 1 : 87 (HO scale).
[:)]
I wonder if those “soft walls” would be helpful, for those occasions when one runs out of cat pills !
[:D][:D]