I’m new to the group and returning to model railroading after several years. I’m putting together a 6’ by 12’ layout and I"m overwhelmed with all the info out there in regards to both benchwork and sub roadbed. I originally planned on a simple cradle construction of 1X3’s and 4’s to hold 2" insulfoam and use Woodland Scenics risers and roadbed, though I want the layout to give the impession of deep depressions in some of the flat areas. My question, can I dig out the 2" foam \ / to make wedges and attach a piece of cut plywood underneath the cradle table to create ____/ an area to span a bridge or deep give the impression of a deep valley? Or should I stack two layers of 2" foam to equal 4" inches thick sub roadbed and do it this way? My point is that I want to create a very light yet strong layout. I really am trying to stay away from L-grider or butt end construction because of weight and long hours, but I’ll do what I have to. Any help would be greatly appreciated. P.S. I have all the benchwork books, too many ideas and I still can’t figure which one to use. Thanks, Steve
You can do it either way. If you’re using 2" foam, digging it out and putting a piece of plywood under it as a river/canyon base would probably be the easiest approach.
Thanks Joe for the info, should I lay a base of 1/4" or so plywood beneath the 2" foam or use the existing cradle method and just attach a small plywood section for the river/canyon? Thanks, Steve
The 1/4 would add lateral stability.
What he said. [:D]
Many thanks to you guys for the help! Trying to push myself out the door to Home Depot this weekend but was somewhat hesitant. All plans are in place, just was overwhelmed by all the info. I plan to build John Armstrong’s Granite Gorge & Northern railroad with some modifications and an extra mainline. May make the width a foot bigger or so going from 6’ by 12’ to 7’ by 12’. Since the railroad is small to moderate size I wanted it somewhat portable to move just in case I ever find a bigger house someday. Again, many thanks…Steve [:D]
Hey Steve, I was all set to build what you are, but a friend on here shared his track plan and then I switched to a 14 x 8 with a 4 x 6 opening in the center, so I get a really good long double main line, I am raising a track so I have multi level, and easy reach to all parts of track.
Check out his website by the way. Here it is. http://www.readingeastpenn.com He shows benchwork, layout and background. Totally messed with my plans but looks easier and faster, and for me, more practical.
Either way, good luck. Let us know what you build.
Tim
Hmmn. That domain name doesn’t seem to be registered anymore. I’d love to see the trackplan. Is there a new website instead of www.readingeastpenn.com?
Dave
No, it’s back in operation. The worthless spam filter they use at work lets the spam through but blocks the domain registration notices, but I have since renewed it. Although you included the question mark in your link, Dave, so that one won’t work for sure.
–Randy
Yup, can see it now. Nice work on the site and great progress so far. I’m impressed.
I like to check what others have done in a medium sized space. I can fit 8’ X16’ but:
- I live in a century home and the basement height is 5’ 6" and is the only space available.
- Bench height will need to be 36" and everything will be done and built for a sitting position.
- No way for an oval like yours because I can’t duck under. (too low)
- I have a design for a double dog-bone but shaped more like a “C” with the ends of the “C” as two peninsulas so allowing a return loop and potential continuous running if I want. The spine of the “C” will be along the long wall (16’)
- A liftout is beyond my skill level at this time (first layout)
Sorry, Steve!! I’m off topic with the last post [D)]
On-topic!
If you put a plywood shelf below the main level in order to accomodate the canyon/river, what methods can you use to place scenery on the sides of the canyon/river that is below the main level? Cardboard strips and plaster?
-Dave
Yes, cardboard strips and plaster works. Or wire screen and plaster may be better, because you can mold the screen to more closely resemble the look you want for the banks before putting the plaster on.
I was told by the owner of my LTHS (local train hobby shop), that it is better to use plastic/nylon screen, especially for tunnel roofs. Apparently, the metal screen has a tendancy to rust, and the rust might fall onto the tracks.
As for myself, I’m still in the R&D/planning stages; but I think I’ll be going with foam for terrain construction over a 1/4" plywood foundation supported on 3/4" plywood (on edge) joists.
Timothy:
The rust problem would exist if you purchase steel screening, but it is also available in aluminum and animal proof plastic.
Thanks all for the help, going out today to get the wood, gave up on the foam idea although I will use it primarily for scenery. I picked up the Atlas “Seven Step-by-Step HO Railroad” book which had the track plan of the Granite Gorge and Northern. I see that their’s a few 22" curves so not too overly concerned about the larger cars I have. I’ll squeeze in a 2nd mainline by increasing the width, hopefully I’ll be able to run my DD40X that’s been sitting around for ever. I checked out the Reading Lines page and was quite impressed with their work, I can definitely get some tips from them. I may also add a switch yard either by increasing the width or a smaller yard by increasing the length a bit more. Unfortunately, I’m lacking space right now so I’ll have to do with what I have (max 7 feet by 12 feet). Again thanks all and I’ll hopefully post some pics once we getter going. …Steve