Newbie track type questions

Model Railroader Layouts and layout building
1

I will totally admit to being a newbie when it comes to designing model train layouts, as a child it was the standard oval and figure 8 sets that I played with.

Now that I am much older. I want to design a layout based upon a coal mine my father worked at for 25 years, I have been looking at different track types and I see many different options.

Is there some page or book that talks about the differnt types of track avilable that would help a person who is new but very excited to choose the best type of track for them and would help them to not mix up track types.

I know EZ would be quick but is it actually more realistic? These are the questions I have.

2

Getting back to the hobby after decades away, I found several of the books from the Kalmbach bookstore helpful, including this one on the basics of trackwork:

http://www.kalmbachstore.com/12254.html

This next one I found helpful on some details.

http://www.kalmbachstore.com/mr6090801.html

And there are also a number of books on layout design overall, including some that relate to operations that figures much into what type layout will work for you basis your interests, space, budget, etc.

There are a number of older threads that may go into particular questions that may arise; e.g., what type flex track, roadbed, turnouts, etc people prefer and why. Don’t hesitate to ask. Do specify what gauge (HO?) you’re considering.

3

KCNW,

I just read your Profile,you provided and first off seeing as how your new,if you want to Model the short line where your dad worked,probably would help a lot if you could find some literature based on the surrounding terrain and any other,industry,or towns nearby…It would help in deciding whether a flat or mountainous area will suite your needs…As far as track goes,do some research on what is out there,some people here on the forums,swear by Kato roadbed track and others have their own likes and dislikes…I’m thinking that it will be HO-Scale,for you will want to use those engines you have…When you need any help,there are many here on the Forums,from all over the world,that will surly try to help…

By the way,My eldest child,daughter,is 47,son 45,son 39,son 35,I will be 71,next year…

Cheers,

Frank

4

The sectional “pre-fab” types of track, including the ones with built in roadbed such as EZ track and others, are well suited to track plans with rather rigidly geometrical shapes and elements; the oval, the figure 8, and so on. It is probably possible to design and build the layout you want with sectional track but it will tend to look stiff and geometrical. My own advice would be to stay away from makes that use steel for the rails. Kato is a respected brand.

To capture the rough 'n ready look of a coal mine or indeed to capture the flowing look of almost any real railroad situation, my hunch is that you’ll want to explore flex track, which comes in 3 foot lengths, and is often mounted on cork roadbed which is also bendable. Many of the project railroads that appear each year in Model Railroader give good tutorials on how to lay such track, and I suspect some of the introductory books from Kalmbach do so as well. You can get flex track in the common and popular sizes of Code 100, Code 83, Code 70 and so on. Code 70 is a bit more specialized for turnouts and the like, however, and is rather delicate to lay. Peco offers both flex track and a line of turnouts and crossings in Code 100, 83,and Code 75 which is unique to them. Their Code 100 and Code 83 can be used with other makes of track but sometimes the height of the ties can differ and thin shims are needed to even things out…

If that makes you uncomfortable then there is certainly nothing wrong with selecting one make of track and sticking to it.

Moving to flex track from sectional track is one of the many transitions that mark a new modeler’s experience and skill growth. It really isn’t difficult per se but it calls for discipline and thought because the track isn’t going to order you around like sectional track does. You order the track around and that means, for example, cutting off excess pieces of

5

EZ track is limited on the number and type of turnouts. They are hard to work with in my opinion especially if you want lots of close parallel tracks. Other brands have much greater flexibility in this regard. Some members of this forum who started with the Bachmann turnouts had reliability problems with them. Also be aware there is Nickel-Silver and Steel track. Avoid the track with the black plastic base it has steel track. Look for the grey plastic base as it has the nickel silver track.

The Life-Like PowerLoc track is a great concept but poorly implemented. Plus the types of track pieces is extremely limited. I would not recommend this at all.

Atlas Tru-Track is code-83 but has the same issue with very limited selection of different track pieces. As far as I know there is only 1 turnout style.

Peco makes the best turnouts in many configurations they come in three different sizes code 75, code 83, and code 100. They are weak in the crossing category.

Atlas is the hobby standard. Has been since the early 1960s and in my opinion still is. It comes in two sizes code 100 and code 83. Many many books of Atlas track plans out there. The problem with it is there are no larger curves (24" is the largest). Most people who get to that stage just use flex track to make curves any size they want. Right now the biggest problem is that it is just rare. Manufacturing problems, shipping problems, seems like there was a fire in there somewhere… It is just mostly unavailable though normal channels at the current time. Hopefully soon it will come flooding back on the market.

Walthers has many turnouts and crossings. I don’t know if they have any sectional curved track.

In the past there was also Rivarossi and Atlas Roco tra

6

To my way of thinking all HO track is divided into three parts. (I assume you are thinking HO). Sectional track, flex track, and hand laid track. Atlas Snap Track is the best known example of sectional track. It comes in 9 inch long sections, either straigh or curved. the tie strip is ridgid plastic to keep the straights straight and the curves at a constant curvature, usually 18 inch radius.

Flex track comes in three foot lengths and it bends to form any radius of curve. You bend it to shape, cut it to length, and nail it down.

Hand laid track you start with loose wooden ties, tiny little spikes, and loose rail. Hand laying is advanced technique, and to get into it you need to know more than I can tell you here.

Sectional track now has two flavors, plain track (just rails and ties) and fancy track (comes with a molded plastic ballast strip under the ties). Bachmann EZ-Track is a well known brand of fancy track. The difference between plain and fancy track is just a matter of looks. Once fancy track is laid it doesn’r need to be ballasted. You can ballast plain track in the traditional manner and it will look even bet

7

Having left footprints on the ground of a number of coal mines, I’m going to approach this from a different angle.

First, if possible, get information about the subject mine, especially the rail facility that served it. Track patterns, approximate rail size (heavy, medium, light - dont obsess about specifics) and appearance. In my experience, the track around collieries is pretty much on uniform ground level, and the level pretty much corresponds with the tops of the ties. Also, the rails are not perfectly straight and/or perfectly parallel. They might have been once, when freshly laid, but years of operation and misadventure take their toll.

Because of that, ‘Everything on one level,’ look, sectional track on roadbed is a poor choice for modeling yard facilities of any kind. Sectional track without roadbed is a bit too perfect, and at the same time has funny-looking ends. In my opinion, flex track is the best choice for getting that, ‘good, but not perfect,’ look.

It is possible to mix and match different sizes of rail and different types of track with wild abandon. All it takes is getting inventive with connections between rail ends. Avoid abrupt kinks and dips and all should be well.

In my own work, I use a variety of flex track from different sources combined with hand-laid switchwork. As for age/experience, I got my first Lionel set at the age of five (months) and shifted to HO while Truman was POTUS. I have been married (to the same woman) for almost 53 years, and my great-grandsons are six, four and two.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with collieries moved over from Kyushu)

8

I know EZ would be quick but is it actually more realistic?

I would say no The roadbed on Bachmann EZ track is too uniform in color. I corrected this somewhat.

First I sanded the ties lightly to make them appear slightly weathered

Then by brushing the roadbed with diluted black paint (about 25% acrylic craft paint to 75% water with a few drops of dish soap to break up any surface tension. This removed the unrealistic sheen and made the indivdual stones more visible. The track also looks less uniform.

Then I painted the sides of the rails with a brown/orange mix including the ties to simulate rust and I also placed weeds around the edges.

Point is realistic track whether EZ or not is not quick.