weathered this when I couldn’t go to sleep. I used black acrylic paint, a mix of two paints I had to form a kind of mud color, a small tipped paint brush, and a wash cloth to wipe paint off.
so, here’s the pics:
Nice job. I really like the chipped paint
It looks like it was in a few coalmines in its time. Good work.
Hey its a start. If I was you I would add some black dust/soot on the top and near the fans. Kinda fade out your redish color on the roof and the nose of the engine. Make it look kinda sun bleached. Thats a few things that might make it look alittle more used.
Heres a shot of what I mean: I added some black/soot look, and the fade.
WOW, I post these shots expecting to get my head bit off, but I actually get some compliments instead.
Robby, the black paint is supposed to be soot. here’s a few before shots from about a month ago:
How do you get that sun bleached look though? Mix the base color with white, or is there an easier way?
lookin’ good, now may i suggest something that has worked well for me. keep this one as it is and as you develop more skills you will have a piece of your earlier work to compare things to. after a while, i like to look back at my earlier efforts just to see how far i have come. that serves to give you a sense of accomplishment without getting a big head. also, when things don’t turn out perfect you can at least see that you a better than you used to be.
grizlump
Weathering on a real locomotive is caused by many factors - road dust, grime, etc., oily smoky residue from diesel exhaust, effects of rain, snow, dust, etc. Many factors.
There is a difference between a locomotive affected by these factors and one that has been dirtied like yours. Just applying a dark color to a model does not make it weathered. Find a photo of a real loco that is weathered and work on duplicating it. Dipping a model in dark paint won’t do it.
hmm, I think I will leave it as is. I’ll also have something to compare it to soon enough, you cans ee it in the background, the blue and red bits. That’s the handrails and shell of my GP30, which will be weathered like the GP35 after I re-paint it. Also, there’s a few things I definitly woulda done differently on my GP35 (the black crud at the top of the side where the dynamic breakfans would be and the huge splotch of black and brown under the radiator fans on the same side, pic 3)
Criticism that does not agree with your particular views is not “biting your head off”. Receiving only compliments does not help you further grow your abilities.
You covered your locomotive in black paint and whiped it off. I have to ask exactly what “weathering” did this accomplish? Was this unit parked outside the exhaust of a paint booth where black locomotives were painted?
You tried to weather something, no harm, no foul. Now, is it completely realistic to me? No. Does it satisfy you? Looks like it does, so give yourself a pat on the back. You’ve done good in your eyes, so isn’t that all that matters?
You’ve got large “globs” of paint. Multiply that thickness by 87 and you’re looking at the equivalent of an inch thick paint job on the real thing. Weathering is about applying mediums to your model. To my eyes it looks like you covered it in black paint and just whiped it all off.
Ditto.
I cant say I like it at all. I think you should invest in an airbrush if you want to take your painting to a whole new level.
On a side note, I suggest you refrain from starting threads like this one if you are NOT looking for critizism. You will get some no matter how good the work is and all the back-patters are doing you an injustice. If you are looking for a pat-on-the-back, then I suggest you post in the WFF, as it is kept as sanitary as possible. A thead like this one is a different story.
David B
Some additional constructive criticism…
Many members here have suggested to you time and time again that you need to get a tripod for your camera. A small tabletop tripod can be had for about $5.00 - $7.00 at WalMart. Almost every photo in this thread is out of focus. It would also help if you placed your model in front of a neutral background (like a piece of posterboard or an old clean sheet) so your subject isn’t hidden in a giant blur of background objects. Same goes for the multi-colored paint stained OSB that you use for a tabletop.
Regarding the “weathering”: if the result pleases you, fine…but I’ve never seen a locomotive that looks anything like what you’ve created. Here’s what a real weathered lcomotive looks like:
You should take photos of locomotives or download them from the internet and study them so you can create a more realistic result. I’ll give you credit for being brave enough to try and post your results…I can’t imagine doing that to any of my locomotives!
Don Z.
Instead of investing in an airbrush, which can be expensive… try finding the colors you need at your local walmart or paint store. most if my currently painted units are painted with Krylon. (note: DO NOT use the “bonds to plastic” stuff… it’s not good on locomotives.) Your resilts will increase dramatically over trying to brush paint…
I’ll add my kudos for giving it the ol’ college try and for your intestinal fortitude.
An excellent weathering job needs and outstanding paint job to sit on. You locomotive appears to have been brush painted with an unthinned paint. The details appear to be slightly overrun with paint!
Several suggestions:
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I understand not al of us can afford an airbrush, but it is definitely something that I would hope you would invest in, since it appears that you enjoy doing painting and weathering, and are not afraid of it. An airbrush is the one item that elevates painting from elementary to intermeidate and beyond. Failing that, I would try using spray paints, but I still insist that enamels and laquers that are not properly atomized, i.e., Krylong, Rust-)-Leum, etc. shoudl be avoided. If you must brush paint, try thinning the paint. If you do thin the paint, try thinning it a little more.
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As to weathering, many folks responding to your post have indicated a good choice is to obtain and study photographs of the prototype. As one who works with the 1:1 beasts, it does not amaze me that each locomotive model tends to get dirty in the same location on each unit, and then there are additional areas that get the filth based on use. Consider going to a craft store and picking up some pastel chalks for use in weathering until such time as an airbrush becomes available. Chalks are easy to apply, can easily be manipulated to create streaks and dust, and they are relatively inexpensive. The only black paint that should show up on a locomotive is for slight drip marks around the fuel filler and washes to highlight dynamic brake grids and/or filters and fans.
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You’ve got potential, and a lot of “stick-to-itiveness” so take the advice and run with it. Let’s see the next effort!
I’ve really been trying to hold off commenting on my thread again,
Sawyer,
If you would start taking heed of the very good advice that’s given to you time and time again instead of ignoring it or dismissing it, then your sensibilities wouldn’t be getting hurt so often when people are honest with you and offer suggestions on how to improve what you are doing.
You say you only get $12.00 per month for an allowance. That’s great. Take next month’s allowance and go to WalMart and buy this:
http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=4383944 Take your change and buy some more acrylic paint for $0.69 per bottle while you’re there. Your pictures will improve greatly by making that purchase.
Since you’re an able bodied teenager hungry for money, get out of t
Packers,
Hey your trying and that is a big plus. You knew that putting your work out there was an invite for some to bash it. You are making the effort and your trying, and I think your headed in the right direction. I will be honest with you on this weathering job, I don’t care for it to much. But! It takes allot of guts to show everyone what you did, and you deserve a pat on the back for that.
I am by no means a weathering pro. One member pointed out about using chalks, this is very easy way to do weather with, and is more forgiving than using paints. Warm soapy water can put it back to its original look in minutes, and if you like it, seal it.
Like I said, your going in the right direstion, keep up the effort and hard work, you will do fine.
[banghead]
David B
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Then why start a thread like this? If you are expecting it, then you should be able to accept critizism as well…
David B
I wouldn’t stick with paints for three reasons
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Paint isn’t very forgiving, like others said, wash powders off with warm water and you got yourself a like new model.
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Paint takes an hour or so to dry, but with powders you can apply it, and spay a light coat of Dull Coate and your done, if your heart desires.
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Paint can be more expensive.