Have athearn genesis F units that have hi-pitched squeak. Lubrication likely the px, but can’t remember how to remove the worm housing to get to the gears. Anybody got the scoop?
Use a very tiny screwdrive to slide under the side edge of the gear housing. It is snapped in place and both holds the worm gear in place and holds the truck in the chassis.
I just worked on an F7A over the weekend and quieted it down and added about 6 ounces of lead.
Use light weight oil on the worm gear thrust bearings, and grease on the gears. Make sure you shim the thrust bearings while you’re in there, it’ll quiet things down and reduce the wear and tear on the gears.
Now I need to fix the stupid headlight so it actually LIGHTS the headlight and dowsn’t light up the room instead…
Mark in Utah
Thanks, Mark. I had these units apart last year to install a brighter light. I over -did it a little, so in dim light, I am blinded for a few seconds.
My F unit headlights are bright as well. What I’d like to do, is move the actual bulb to its proper location in the nose. Problem is, I’m concerned about the heat, and I have no idea how to mount it.
One thing I like about these units, is that they’re easy to work on. All you need is a small screwdriver, a pair of pliers…and you can fix anything on an Athearn F 
I don’t know what the inside of a Genesis F Unit looks like, but it can’t be too different from the Athearn BB locos I use on the BRVRR. I have used LEDs, grain of wheat bulbs and the standard Athearn light bulbs for headlights on the F7s. So far, a 12v LL structure light, threaded into the simple brass base and encased in heat shrink tubing seems to work best. I mount them on the original metal clip with double backed tape. The bulb is just the right size and if you extend the heat-shrink tubing a little past the front of the bulb, the ‘camp fire’ effect is almost totally eliminated. So far I haven’t had any problems with heat.
One idea anyway.
Hope it helps.