I have recently added turnouts (as sidings) and wasn’t sure how make the sidings non-powered when closed, and powered when opened. I inquired at St. Aubin’s and was informed about insulated split jaws. I currently use brass split jaws on all my track. What the salesperson was not sure of was how they are used. Can anyone explain how I would do this? I need to figure out how many insulated joiners I need, and where they are placed. Also, what material are non conductive split jaws made of? Not sure how durable they would be if they are made of plastic, especially considering the seasonal freeze/heat factors. My goal is to have staged consists on the sidings that can be powered up and moved onto the main line. Wouldn’t I need to also use a toggle switch to jump power over to the insulated section? And if this is the case, does it matter which rail to jump (pos/neg)?
Thanks,
Rich F.
It doesn’t matter which rail you break if all you’re going to do is isolate a siding or spur. If you’re wiring a reverse loop or wye or separating two loops, you’ll want to isolate both rails. My best advice would be to get one of the myriad books on wiring your railroad. The principles are the same for HO as they are for large scale. I don’t know about the “Split-Jaw” insulated clamps, but the Hillman ones I’ve seen are made of some kind of plastic which I would assume to be UV stable. Later, K
I use the insulated split jaws, you can see a picture of them on their web site. They hold up fine, the insulator “side” is a dark plastic, seems to be fiber-reinforced epoxy resin, the black is probably carbon black added for UV resistance.
I have DCC, so use them on both rails to isolate power sections.
From your post, I’m figuring you are using standard DC track power. If you want to just connect a track to the main, yes, just interrupt only one rail. Which one does not matter, there is no positive or negative, since it changes if you reverse direction!
Personally, I would completely isolate the track block (use on both rails), so you have additional flexibility, i.e. you could run the tracks from a different controller, and then, you could reverse them independently of the main line. Running with a common rail and trying to reverse one block could cause electrical problems.
Regards, Greg
Using insulator pins with Lionel 3-rail tubular switches does what I was hoping to do with 2-rail. I’m begining to see the logic and benifits of 3-rail track! I’ll inquire at Aristo’s site. I am using DC power except when I run live steam. Thanks for your help.
Rich F.
You dont have to use insulated - a simple gap in the rails - provided it cannot close up is ok
On aristocraft just make a gap in 2 rails and drill / tap power feed screws into rail to maintain the gap
Its cheaper and the screws can be used to wire the switched feed from your point(switch) motor
I use the Split jaw insulated clamps. I super glue a piece of Evergreen .040 plastic to the end of one rail and then file it to shape before I put the rails together. That way if the clamp should come lose or the rails should expand to the point of contacting eack other they will still be no electrical conductivity to each other. I have never had a problem with this happening but it is better to be safe than to have to tear up track and fix it.
Thanks for the advice. I still haven’t received the split jaw n/c joiners yet, but will use non-conductive material between the rail joints as a precaution also.
Rich F.
I take the switch and turn it upside down to see how it is wired.
Then I cut wires/bands and isolate the siding rail at the frog.
Then I use the LGB EPL drive and switch to allow the siding to be powered when selected.
This allows me to use rail clamps and not use insulators.
PS, LGB has bright yellow plastic joiners, Aristo has black plastic joiners.
I have used the Hillman insulated joiner indoors.
Yet another good idea! Thanks.
Rich F.