This is an Atlas boxcar with real rust weathering on the roof and car ends. The lettering is being streaked and faded. More weathering and work to do along with a final blending of all the effects.
It looks very effective JK, how did you do it? When the photo is enlarged the texture in the rust shows well and that is what makes it look very real. Great job.
Nah, it’s definitely a model - you can tell in the enlargement. Still, I (and I think lots of others) would like to hear how that rust texture was modelled, as it is impressive.
Also, did the OP model bird crap on the rightmost roof panel?
I might be fooled into thinking it is a real railcar except the streaking on the letters is not blended in yet. I don’t think they do weathering in that order in the real world.
I have some really nice Walthers 73’ centerbeam cars. I notice that the 87:1 ones are often really banged up and rusted. Even though the Walthers car’s colors are really nice (one is a spruce green), I think they will benefit from some additional detail and weathering.
One nice thing about the rusted roof in the photo is that is is done just right to my taste.
To me, the letter streaking would be better if the streaks appeared to flow from just the lower edges of the letters. Some of the streaking goes outside the letter and appears illogical. Where does the streak come from? (Answer: Probably a brush.)
It’s not RUSTALL or WEATHERALL. Credit to WCFan - it’s done with an iron based paint that you then apply a reactant to that creates the real rust on the surface. IMO, it creates the best rust effect possible since it is real rust. I’m still learning to control the effect and experimenting with ways of using it.
I continued with more of the effect on the same Conrail boxcar. I’ll post pictures once they’ll available.
Sounds like a good paint for trucks/wheels and couplers. A couple of questions though, is the paint airbrush compatable and where to buy the paint(Hardware or LHS)?
I wouldn’t try airbrushing. It is a rather thick ‘paint’ and would be difficult to thin enough to get through an airbrush. Add to that the problems you’d get if the brush wasn’t thoroughly cleaned. I’d stick with applying with a brush since the effect is best when used to simulate rust from scratches and corrosion.
I’ve applied it to the trucks of the current car. I’ll takes some pics and post them.
I did some additional work on the project car over the weekend. I agree with the earlier comment about the streaking from the letters. That was one of those items I planned on working on with a final blending.
Here’s a few more pics.
The trucks don’t show real well, but they were rusted up also. I may give them another application to darked the rust.
A close up. Is real or is it memorex??
One weird thing in the pics are very small specks. They undetectable on the car but show up in the pics. I’m not sure what they are, maybe some kinda crystal or salt deposit from the evaporation.
I’ve still got the left side and other side of the car to finish.
Is that the stuff from Sophisticated Finishes? I remember seeing a site where a guy did an industrial complex with that stuff. It looked Soooooo real! I’ve been trying to get it locally with no luck.[:(]
That’s exactly it. I got it a few years back and have used only a little. Try your local craft stores. I apply it with a small brush and then apply the reactant with a larger brush like its a wash.
On the close-up photo I think its difficult to tell its not a photo of a real boxcar side. just my opinion.
I tried to order it from Michaels, Hobby Lobby, Loews and Home Depot. All stores said they could get it but after 4 long aggravating excuses non could come through with the goods.[banghead] I hope I don’t have the same bad luck online.[V]