Resources are great and vast at least for the advanced hobbyist. I have scoured the back issues and much of the online videos. The track plans are I am afraid biased to the more experienced. I see some of my questions in the forums but the answers are not there. One example is how do you determine the size / height and location of the supports in an L girder or cookie cutter layout?
Looking at the plan you do get the different heights in elevation but the grade or distance from start to end is not there. Can build anything from a print. I do not necessarily want an exact copy but something to model after, pun intended.
For us that are control challenged and are reading every book out there for DC and DCC controls. How do you determine where to put insulated rail joiners? Are these even used anymore, been since the 80’s for my last layout.
So for us entry level folks throw us a bone and help us build a layout. I understand the number of subscribers is falling and the old hands are moving on. Are the new railroaders going to have the skills to build the dream layout without some help? I am now in search of local clubs and have found two and am looking forward to getting back on the rail.
I am not on the MR staff, but have been, like most other forum members, where you are now, as far as experience and expertise is concerned. It can be quite overwhelming at first, as there is so much to learn, and figuring-out what to do in what order. You are smart to check into local clubs. You probably have already realized what a great resource club members could be to someone just starting a layout.
As far as seeking direct help from Model Railroader, remember that it is the magazine’s practice to periodically publish a series of articles over some month’s time showing a layout build in steps, as well as building a scene, structure or other topic.
In addition, I encourage you to post questions on these forums - you will get more great information and help here than any other single source.
Also check out the Kalmbach Books link at the bottom of the web pages. Remember that technology is ever changing, and DCC, open grid/L girder, and scenery techniques are going to continue to evolve. Use the techniques you are comfortable with, have fun, and just go with it.
I agree with Wilton. Post questions. Show us your track plans and ask for suggestions. There are people here with decades of experience. There are electrical engineers, former and present railroad workers, master modelers, and other experts. You will get just about all the help you could ask for here.
LION quite agrees with you on several points. Look at pictures throughout this forum, and very few of them are of the quality that are published in the magazine. Do they have a bias against the beginning or unskilled modeler? No they do not. They can only consider work from those who submit articles, AND take good photographs. The magazine is after all a visual medium. So not only do you have to build a decent railroad, but must also be a decent writer and a good photographer.
Would people be interested in looking at amateur layouts, or do they want to be inspired to greatness?
Well, Maybe the LION should write and submit an article, but then you can already look at my layout on line. You can look at many of our layouts on line, and you can PM (private message) us if you have questions. All forum users will be happy to answer you.
LION does this by trial and error. Mostly Error. I have pulled a helix out twice before I was happy with it. LION so not bother to try to determine every thing out, things gotta fit where they can fit. You are not running a real locomotive on the layout, It is surprising how overbuilt some layouts are. Better overbuilt than under built, I suppose.
Don’t give up, it is far too much fun for that, and now that it is 1500 here, I’ll shut down the computer and head on up to the train room.
Have a look at the Virginian HO 4X8 step-by step series that ran in Model Railroader from January to May 2012. Oriented toward the beginner, this series includes information on benchwork, risers, track laying, wiring, etc. Many, if not most, of MR’s project layouts are oriented to beginners.
Nearly every book on DC or DCC explains how to gap (with insulated rail joiners or by cutting rail) and add feeders to layouts. If you post the wiring books you have, someone may be able to point you to the pertinent pages.
Suggest also see the current General Discussion thread on books for those getting involved, or coming back to, the hobby. For instance, I found that scouring multiple books on trackwork plus many related threads on this forum essential to understanding how to make my track reliable on my current venture, with far fewer problems than my 1980 attempt. The cost of ten or so books is not insignificant, but worthwhile if the budget can stand it.
Specific questions are also welcome and almost always get useful responses. I find the search feature not very robust on this site but also give it a try or simply Google a short question and that may better lead you to a relevant older but useful MR forum thread.
Some of your questions above are answered in 101 Track Plans for Model Railroaders (a classic) and in The DCC Guide.
Though 101 Track Plans is not a bad book, it has some issues especially for beginners. The book contains plans, just plans, most are never built.
Impossible grades and trackwork only possible by handlaying can be found on many plans in that publication. The book was published in the 50’s; the plans surely show it.
The newer 102 Realistic Track Plans is IMHO a better option. All plans are from railroads that are really built.
Having a book to help you actually build a railroad was a great first step.
Both links will connect you with Byron Henderson’s amazing webside. Very worth reading!
Also, Larry, if you are a subscriber to MR Magazine, you can go through the track plans from previous articles in MR. I was particularly inspried by a very small layout that was featured in the May, 2001 issue of MR by Jonathan Jones. This small 2’ x 10’ layout packed a lot of railroad into a small space, with, believe it or not, a fair amount of operating possibilities. There are also people on this forum who have inspired some of the design on my layout. Don’t be intimidated by the skills of others, learn from them.
Thank you, I have been studying the track plans and I like the idea of starting on a smaller layout for the experience. Figuring out the electrical and elevation seems to be my biggest challenge.
Thank you, found the local hobby shop to be very helpful. I can see a lot of reading and questions in my future. Found a plan book of my first layout from the 80’s. Tyco ;-). It lays it out in several steps staring with the Christmas tree oval then adding a turnout and a second section. Bringing back the memories of why I like railroads and models.
Being a mechanical contractor never thought I would struggle with DC current but the changes in direction and turnouts with the isolated rail connectors is going to require a bit of study. Decided to start a small oval layout and grow it by adding turnout and a return loop so I can better understand. Always did over think things.
Like the time of 1500, being retired military it is the way I taught my kids to tell time.
I am slowly headed to the open girder table over the cookie cutter. With the trial and error method and a good level I see progress in my future. The module layout has also caught my interest.
Understating why they need to be insulated is my biggest visual challenge. I could not look at the amazing layout plans and tell you where to put them. Been to the Virginian, nice series my only comment is the directory of the series seems to be missing sections. Is there a table of contents for this layout and the other videos. Being a visual guy videos are a great teacher.
This question is fairly easy to answer generically. The short version is if one is using DCC there is no longer any need of insulated rail joiners for train control. Hook up two wires and go. On the other hand there might still need to be some if the turnouts being used have hot frogs, or if the track arrangement has a reversing loop, wye, or turntable. Those require insulated joiners and the reversing things need an auto reverse module.
On a DC layout just think about where one would want to have two trains close to each other. Each place a train needs to be would need to be electrically insulated from another place a train would need to be. This is always for each passing siding, each stretch of track between passing sidings, and each off-main (yard area) where trains are desired to operate independently. The more blocks the greater the flexibility of operation, but also the more manual effort (electrical switch flipping) to make it work.
Interesting, I assume it has to do with the DCC having power to the rails all the time leaving it up to the decoder to figure out what to so with it? I am seeing post that recommend not putting turnouts in the controller. Having to search through menus could be problematic.
My plan is a control board / table with manual switches. New question, Momentary switch or DPDT manual switch? I do plan on a large yard for classification and storage. Watch an MR video yesterday showing slaying out switches at the switch location instead of at the local control board. Thought that was interesting. Guess it depends on the size of the layout.
Cost to use ratio, is going DCC worth the price for you that have it? I just received my first DCC train bought it from Walthers.
It is going to be my small layout learning tool. Remember the old Radio Shack electronic kits Yep I am that old. But that is how I learn. Read it, talk about it and then experiment.
Thank and yes very true. However reading a long winded post on a computer is a bit tough for us old guys. Well that and trying to keep all of the thoughts in the same comment / area. Answering each one does make it a PITA to read. Next time I will try and consolidate them
I learned more here on the forums, than any books I read or research online. If it wasn’t for the nice people here answering all my questions, I would never had a working layout.
Some very smart people here, and willing to help others.
Just had a duh moment. Figured out why the insolated joiner for turn outs. Problem was the name “frog” Now that I know what it is and the action of it. Switching to the other rail will put the wrong polarity on the rail.
And isolation allows you to run a train with a separate controller or independently on a yard section via a control switch.
Yep I am that old. But that is how I learn. Read it, talk about it and then experiment.