NYC Pacemaker Decals for HO Scale?

Group,

Does anybody know where I can get a set of these? I have a factory painted brass car that I need decals for. I really hate to have and strip such a beautiful car bacuse I cannot locate the decals.

Thanks in advance

Sam

If you’re talking about the red and grey cars, I don’t have a set available, but Champ made these as set HB-24 (in HO). In 0 scale, it’s OB-24.

I mention this because it gives you something to look for.

You might consider joining the NYC Yahoo group and throwing yourself on their mercy.

Good luck,

ed

C-D-S offered four different sets of dry transfer lettering for Pacemaker cars, the as-built version from 1940 (Set #97), the 1951 re-paint (Set #164), and the 1958 re-paint (Set #396), along with the 1954 scheme which was used on the PS-1 boxcars (Set #395).

While C-D-S is no longer in business, there should be lots of all versions available - the trick will be to track them down, although several vendors at train shows in this area have them. If you know which version you want, let me know and I can check at a nearby hobbyshop which does have a fair amount of C-D-S in-stock.

Wayne

Wayne,

I would like the 1940’s version if Possible but would consider the 51 also. If you could I find them I would really appreciate it!

Thanks

Sam

I’m going down there tomorrow (Friday) and will let you know my findings.

Wayne

I found the C- D-S decals on Ozark Minatures Website and they had alot of them. Just got done ordering them. Thanks for all the help!

Sam

That’s great news, Sam. [tup]

Just remember, though, that these are dry transfers. They’ll look great when properly applied, as there’s no decal film to hide, but you get only one chance to apply them straight and in the proper position - they cannot be lifted or moved around like a decal.
While I’ve used them for years and had good success, I’ve found that the lettering on the car’s ends is a little tricky to apply, especially if you’re changing the car’s number from the ones which are offered already made-up on the sheet. For these, I often apply them to clear decal paper, then overspray them with a light coat of Dullcote or Glosscote. Once the clear finish has hardened (at least overnight) you can cut them out and use them as you would any regular decal. Of course, if you wish, all of the lettering can be applied to clear decal paper, then added to the car as decals.

For applying dry transfers to the car’s sides, I use available details present on the car or, as in the case of your car, the paint separation lines to aid in placing the lettering level and in the proper position.

Where such aids aren’t available, you can use a length of low-tack masking tape temporarily applied to the car’s side - first place it sticky-side down on a sheet of glass to remove some of the stickiness, and be careful when placing the tape on the car, as it will readily lift any lettering with which it comes in contact. [banghead] You can add alignment marks to the tape with a pen or pencil.
Here’s an example on a Trueline caboose, in this case lettered with individual letters from a Champ decal alphabet set:

[IMG]http://i23.ph

LION was not aware that Little Plastic People needed pacemakers, or if there were any scaly physicians who could do the work.

ROAR

Thanks Wayne, This is great info! I even ordered 2 sets just in case I mess up the first one!