O-22 Fixed Switch Connections issue

Classic Toy Trains Forum
1

Hi,

I’ve inherited an old Lionel O-gauge train that my mother and brothers got for Christmas back in the 50’s

It’s been operated very minimally since her father passed in the 80’s

I have managed to get the train running under a tree at Christmas time the last few years with plenty of bugs, switches working, but not perfectly, had to keep an eye on everything.

I want to get it setup so my kids can use the train without me constantly worrying about the switches not flipping

I found I had to have the control at high to get them to switch each and every time. Being new to this I didn’t realize you could “fix” wire these things.

I’m not sure if my end plan is even feasible, or why everything is failing at the moment

Here is how I have things wired

Power: Powerstation 8482

3 Lockons: 3 connected to the 1 post and daisy chained to the “A” post on Powerstation, 1 Connected on the 2 post directly to “U” post on Powerstation

Fixed Switches

Using 20 gauge wire from the Fixed daisy chained to the “B” post of Powerstation

Switches are wired together from the 1 & 3 posts - want to control both switches with one control

I have one control wired to one switch only

Without train on the tracks, 3 things happen

A: one switch doesn’t do anything

B: same switch chatters and doesn’t switch

C: switches work for maximum of 2-3 switched and then shorts out control box and I need to reset

I am very new to this, any help would be appreciated

2

Both turnouts should have their fixed-voltage plugs inserted and connected to the power-station B terminal. Daisy-chaining is okay.

All the lockons should have both their terminals connected to the power-station, center rail to A and outside rails to U. Daisy-chaining is okay.

Use 18 AWG or heavier wire for safety, 14 AWG or heavier for low voltage drop.

Put an insulating pin in each control rail of each turnout. If a junction between two turnouts involves two insulating pins, supply the track on each side of the junction with separate connections between the outside rails across the junction.

3

And while we’re on the subject, I have two problems–on 2 or 3 switches, the non derail function is inoperable–probably disconnected conductor inside mechanism? also they throw almost all the way, but not quite when operated from the switch control. I did check them before installing, but obviously not carefully enough. I hate the fact that they must be taken up to be worked on; It would be much better if the covers came off from the top.

4

What model, Stuart?

5

Sorry. 022 switches

6

Was having trouble with an 022 switch which was not throwng all the way, even at 19 volts from rw. Found the switch worked better without the lantern in. In some way, it was causing additional binding and thus friction while energized and moving and my final solution was to take up the switch and swap the motor. That solved the problem, but motor doesn’t work as well as it should with the lantern. And I certainly don’t want to use 19 V on my switches; no good for the lightbulbs and the plastic lanterns get very hot and will deform.