Hello,
We’re new to the hobby. We purchased a Lionel New York Central Flyer set. Now we are starting to gather ideas for a table using 2 4x8’s.
Can anyone offer tips, ideas, suggestions or more regarding this area of fun?
Thanks,
Dave and Susan
Dave & Susan,
[#welcome]
I advise picking up the current issue of CTT, it just so happens that they are doing a multi-issue “how-to” feature article on this same subject. There are several methods as far as the table is concerned. My personal preference is what’s called “L Girder” method of construction. The basic subframe consists of two 1x6’s with a 1x2 attached so it forms what looks like an L, when in use it would be an upside down L. To this upside down L stringers would be attached at a rite angle spaced 12" apart. The stringers will support the sub-roadbed. The legs, with required cross bracing, will be attached to the L girder as well.
There is, I believe, a publication that Kalmbach did some time back that desribes some of the different methods used and what some of the considerations might be that go into deciding which method to use.
WCB - First off —> [#welcome].
If you are really new to the hobby, I honestly suggest that you start with a single 4X8 platform. This will allow you to get-up-and-runnin’, without trying to cover a large area with scenery,track,buildings,etc. You can always expand (don’t I know it) later.
But if you a-b-s-o-l-u-t-e-l-y gotta start big, I suggest either a 4X16 end-to-end, or a 12X8 L-shaped configuration…keeps everything at arm’s length.
Here is a link to an 8’ x 12’ L shape layout that we have at our musuem.
http://wrmrrm.shutterfly.com/802
Also check out our web page at www.wrmrrm.org
Fifedog nailed it when he suggested keeping things at arms length. In addition to this, aim for eventual two-train operation.
I like having two trains, freight and passenger running in opposite directions.
I also like being able to interchange them, so plan for some switches, and if you can swing it, reversing loops (I don’t have any, but wish I did!).
Shoot for some operating accessories, loading and unloading too. It adds a lot of fun!
Also: don’t go for full blown scenery until you’ve mastered running and tweaking your trains. Just some green paint over homasote will do for now, perhaps gray for roads. After you’re sure as to what you want, and you’ve got it up and running well, then you can do the full-blown scenicking thing.
Jon [8D]
Dave and Susan, first off congratulations and welcome. Those Lionel ‘flyer’ sets have been a constant in their catalogs since 1990 or so. I have several of those sets, one of which is now 18 years old and the loco still works just fine.
Don’t jump the gun too quickly on building your layout until you have some more info and have put some thought into. For example, are you doing this as a family layout with children involved? If kids are involved, there are some different rules… like maybe laying the track not right up to the edge of the layout, so that if there is a derailment, the loco doesn’t take a tumble to the floor. Or to have some operating items located close to the front of the layout where they are easily reached (not a bad rule for grownups either).
Do you own your house and feel secure in your job? If not, maybe you want to consider a layout that if not poratble, is able to be moved without ruining it. Many use plywood for a layout surface, but I used Blue exterior home insulation board because it is so lightweight. Either way has advantages and disadvantages which you have to decide for yourself.
If your train set was an older version that came with 027 track, I’d advise figuring out your layout design first, so that you will minimize the times you pull apart and put together the track. But if you have Lionel’s FasTrack with your set (which you probably do), one of the BIG advantages of FasTrack is that it stays together and stays put with a minimum of screws. So you can let the actual layout grow over time, as interest and finances allow. If you were to use a piece of indoor/outdoor carpeting over your layout board surface, you might not even need to use any screws to hold the track until your layout gets more complex.
Check out this website: www.thortrains.net
Simply put, there is a wealth of information on this one sin
I’m currently constructing a new layout, and have a few thoughts:
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Keep the trains running during construction as much as possible
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Make sure your transformer can handle the load you put on it.
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Try and include a reversing loop and a couple sidings. Reverse loop to turn the train, Sidings for storage.
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If possible, try to keep the track from running parallel to the edge of the layout, at least in a few areas.
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Consider multi-levels. Allows for more trains to run in a smaller space, and eventually, more interesting scenery.
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Don’t get frustrated. Ask questions, use resources, such as on-line, books, etc.
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Have fun doing it.
If possible try to advoid doing what they call a ping-pong table layout and that is flat train layout no up or down to it at all. yes there are some nice ones out there but if you look at the terrain out side its not all flat and level. as mention above try to do a elevated level so this way you could build hills to meet it and it would give you the look of up and down and even if the layout is flat but 2 levels.
It doesn’t have to look great as you add scenery it will fill in and the appearance will improve befor you know it.
Also as stated above ask questions and have fun doing it if you can I would also recommend doing 4’ X 12’ or something to that arrangement instead of trying to do 8’ X 8’ another option is make a T out of your 2 boards so your middle is 12’ and you have 8’ across the top can be very interesting of a layout.
Thank you all for some great ideas!!! It’s a pleasure to be among all of you. Thanks for sharing thoughts and ideas.
Dave and Susan
Dave and Susan,
I am relatively new to the hobby having started last year. I provide the following based on my limited but real life experiences.
I suggest you set something up on the floor to start so you can practice connecting tracks, installing wiring and become familiar with your transformer. You will learn a lot this way. Try to run your trains often. By waiting for the final layout, you may lose the excitement. Try the free track layout software from Atlas. While it is only for Atlas track, it will give you a nice free tool for evaluating layouts. Next, I think you will find a solid 8x8 layout will give you some trouble. Ask yourself how you will reach each item on your layout to install and repair? I think you will find that many people on this forum will recommend an L or T shape or an around the wall layout so you can reach all parts of the layout for installation, repair and the occasional derailment. If you really like the 8x8, plan on making access holes in the middle so you can always be within arms reach of everything. Welcome to the hobby and best of