What are the chances of betting on something and winning on ebay?
Allan.
You have a 100% chance of winning everything you bid on as long as you bid more than the other bidders.
Ebay is not that hard to deal with. Know the product you’re bidding on, stick to your guns on how much you want to pay, only bid on items from sellers with high feedback ratings and be patient. If you don’t win it this time, there will always be another one.
Unless it is a totally unique item. In that case bid high and bid often! You will probably win it. Sniping doesn’t work too well, it decreases your chance of getting said item. If you want it, bid like you mean it.
I disagree about sniping, I’ve found it works very well myself.
On another note, I simply don’t “get” E-bay bidders, quite often: I just don’t understand how/why people are paying more on E-bay than stuff can be got through regular retail.
I literally was just looking 5 minutes ago at a BLI PRR T-1 4-4-4-4 on Ebay that’s at $316 with a day to go yet… Shipping to my zip is $15.00… I’m sure it will go for even more. I just looked at the “completed listings” and saw several that went in the $325 + $11 shipping range.
I don’t get that! You can buy it brand new in a sealed box from several retailers for $295-$299… The retailer I typically use would charge me $7.95 in shipping. Maybe $30-35 isn’t much for some people, but why pay that much more even if you’re a millionaire? If it was one obscure retailer at that price, I’d perhaps understand. But I can think of half-a-dozen places, all not exactly obscure and big advertisers, that sell it around $300. And you can pay with various methods, AND you get a real return policy, AND you get a phone number you can call if there’s a problem… I’m sorry if I’m ranting but I just don’t get it!
BNS, my best advice to you is IF you’re looking at something that’s current production and available at retail, DO NOT assume E-bay is cheaper! Check the usual roster of mail-order and online retailers before you buy on E-bay.
Speaking of snipers, watch out for the people who has the automatic bidders. It sucks because of something you wanted and have waited a few days to bid on the last 5 mins and then loose at that last 1 or 2 seconds of the auction. I hate those people!!! [:(!] [:(!] [:(!]
I find that eBay is really easy to deal with. Now, I would warn you, once you win something, it may become addicting. It’s the adrenelin rush from winning that first object…You just want more. I think my addiction is wearing thin because I haven’t bid on anything in a month or so…
I would agree with the above. If the item is in production, you can probably find it else where cheaper. There are so many other people thinking that eBay is cheaper, and not doing research, so they are just increasing the bid beyond the MSRP. Really popular and hard-to-find items, such as the when Lionel introduced their Polar Express, I can understand paying more for…But not everyday runs. Out of production (OOP) items are great to find on eBay, it’s like its own train show.[:D]
I would recommend trying a few bids on smaller items. Maybe a building or a piece or rolling stock to get the hang of it. Ask plenty of questions, and read the description![8D]
It is surprising what people sometimes pay on ebay–both over and under what something is worth. Me, I bought a BLI Pennsy T1 for $230.00 and $15.00 shipping on ebay. I still think I paid too much. [:D] Got a great deal on a M1b, too. Haven’t had as much luck with BLI K4s (they always run high it seems), so I just bought one on sale from Trainworld.
The point is, know what you are willing to bid and stick with it. Sniping sometimes works–and sometimes doesn’t work. If you really want something, don’t plan on sniping.
Generally I refrian from bidding listings a prefer to stick with ‘Buy it now’ or shop listings. It pays to know the product and what other retailers outside of ebay are charging or you can pay way to much. Sniping happens and I really hate it.
eBay can be great. Just exercise caution as people above described.
The biggest rip-off I ever saw was a few weeks ago- Athearn RTR AC4400 “Buy it Now” for $99.95 +shipping. You can buy them new for $59. and most of 'em have a defective motor anyway.
DON’T be mad when you don’t win an item. Because I’ve been glad I lost the item after a day or 2. I’ve NEVER been mad that I lost an item (except for the first hour or so after I lose)
That is 100% true. But you have to know what your bidding on. I got a SD-9 for $30.
Indeed. I think some of these bidders are of the type that used to light cigars with $5 bills-just to show they could. Do it often enough and suddenly you find yourself short of $5 bills.
Millionaires are probably the least likely to overpay for something. Part of the journey to becoming a millionaire is to value your resources not squander them.
Off subject of eBay a bit: I’m still trying to figure why someone would pay $35 for an original Lionel paper box for a given Lionel car. Fri
Hmm…you don’t think some of those people put in a maximum bid (aka automatic) because they got tired of losing out on something they just had to have because of last minute or last second(s) sniping do you?
As PennsyHoosier suggests, do your research and decide what you are really willing to pay and stick to it. “Automatic” bidding via entering your maximum(what you think is a rationale price) takes you out of sniping range. If somebody wants to overpay-let 'em keep sniping. There are other locos, cars, DCC systems, switches, semaphores, decoders, structures whatever out there.
If eBay ever figures out a way to work the bidders like they do on the Barrett-Jackson auto auctions on TV they(eBay) won’t be able to count the money fast enough! [swg]
Jon
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I was referring to those automatic bidding programs that you set an certain amount and it will bid at the last second for you, not ebay proxy bidding.
I have been very lucky with ebay. Research what you want. I forever see people bidding higher prices on auctions then what you can get with buy it now. If i can get an item for $20.00 less (delivered) then i can get locally, I go for it.
I recently won an Atlas 8-40cw with sound for $169.00 delivered. It may take more then one attempt to win your item.I am retired so i have the time.
The seller THe Favoritespot is selling Bachmann steam all the time on ebay. Alot of times his auctions go higher then what he also has listed with Buy it now (same item).
Research, research.
I also wanted a Kato SD38-2. Checked ebay current listings and Items already sold. Most have sold for $80.00 ++. Trainworld has them on sale for $69.00 and with the recent Presidents Day sale of 10% off it only came to $63.00. What a deal.
Waited several months watching BLI GG-1’s. One Sunday morning found 2 from the same seller with buy it now for $119.00 each.
The best i can do locally is maybe 25% off but the sales tax is 8-8.5%… Ebay has saved me alot.
Bob
I would say not to bid in the early stages of an auction. All that does is to drive the price up, and there’s always someone who can pay more, I have never won anything by bidding days before the end. Better to wait until the last few minutes. Don’t get suckered into paying too much either - look up the price of similar items new before deciding a maximum bid.
I agree that sometimes when you bid too early in an auction, you run the risk of someone bidding higher and also items with bids tend to attract more bids. However, I’ve often planned to bid on something the last minute but then forget, even if I’ve “bookmarked” the auction.
Recently I started a new approach. I decide what I’m willing to pay and place that bid. For instance, the other day a guy had an Atlas Classic RS-1 in the New Haven paint scheme on Ebay with an opening bid of $40.00. The auction was to end at midnight, a time at which I’m sleeping. So, the day before the auction ended, I bid $46.00. Well, guess what. I won the auction. With shipping/insurance, I got the engine for a lot less than the mail order price and way below the retail price.
A couple of weeks ago a guy had an E-R Model New Haven FA-1 in the black/red scheme that I wanted. The opening bid was $10.00. Believe it or not, I bid $20.00 and actually won the engine for $14.50. I’ve already received it and it runs beautifully. Botton-line: I’m winning more auctions this way than trying to wait till the last moment and then forgetting to bid.
Hope this helps.
Mondo
A couple of people have wondered how people can bid so high often over retail prices. Easy a couple of items I bid on and won would be considered overpriced in your locales but are *** near impossible to find in my neck of the woods even at that price. Local availability, willingness of the LHS to order, stock and what they price said item can still make that overblown bid to be quite reasonable to the auction winner. Remember not all local hobby shops are created equal, plus north of the border here in my part of the country a new release that occurs in January (for example) might not hit the shelves here until June or July and the sticker price will make you gag if and when it does. Exchange rate, import tariffs and limited production runs or first production runs can be sold out in the States before you could find it up here in any shape or form outside of ebay, or an online hobby shop or wholesale shop.