Probably not the most informative of posts, But I just wanted to get a mini-review out there for those who haven’t experienced DCC yet…
While on a trip to southern California, I went into Milepost 38 Hobbies in Anaheim. They were exceptionally helpful to someone who has been in the hobby since 1976 (didn’t treat me like a newbie!), and someone who had never touched any DCC equipment in his whole life (and they didn’t treat me like a dummy!).
They gave me a generous amount of throttle time on Prodogy Squared, Digitraz Zephyr, and NCE Powercab, with a couple of different brands of locos - including a MTH Triplex - which surprised me with it’s performance - and volume of smoke!
Michael, the gentleman who gave me the run of their layout and control systems, gave me an interesting piece of advice. “Picking a DCC system is like choosing a digital camera. They all do about the same thing more or less. Choose the one that feels right to you!” I remembered that word for word!
I bought the NCE Powercab system from them, which is complete out of the box as is. Because I have a midsize HO scale layout (6’ X 19’), I also opted for the SB3 Smart Booster and 5 amp power supply.
It was the one that felt right, seemed user-friendly (F functions seemed easy enough to access), and loved the choice of single step throttle button, or 4(or more) step at a time throttle control, OR a thumbwheel throttle in the middle.
I got it home and set it up. The instructions were a little vague and confusing for a DCC novice (although the first few pages are wonderful - they just tell you how to wire it up and start programming and running trains within 20 minutes of opening the box!) I did just that!
I would also like to know WHY the bus wiring must be twisted (I’m just like that!)
It should also tell you that QSI sound locos can’t be programmed on the ‘program track’ because there is not enough current, but does program perfectly on
Your DCC bus carries power as a pulsed AC digital signal instead of a DC voltage level. It is essentially a high-power computer network signal you are applying to your rails. The twisted pair reduces the signal degradation over longer runs.
Is it that it can’t be programmed, or that CV’s can’t be read? A common problem with newer decoders is that they don’t write back with enough current for some command stations to read. On my Digitrax Zephyr putting a 1k ohm resistor across the program track terminals in parallel with the locomotive corrects the problem. You might contact NCE and ask if this fix will work with the PowerCab.
Thanks Terry, I’ll check it out a little more. it appears at first glance a decoder programmer for those of us who are not binary-eating computer geeks(and may never be!)
And thank you Randall for a nice simple explanation for bus wire twisting!
I’ll contact NCE about the resistor idea too.
In reality, twisting the bus wires isn’t necessary. It may be beneficial in some cases, with a very long bus, but in almost all cases it is not necessary. On the other hand, it won’t hurt.
Some sound decoders won’t program easily, due to the high current they take to “turn on”. I have read some cases where turning the sounds off solves the problem. In other cases, the resistor across the tracks, and in other cases the PowerPax programming booster form DCC Specialties does the trick.
Welcome to the wonderful world of DCC, Carmine! [^][tup] Thanks for sharing your DCC-buying experience with us. Wanted to comment on a few things below…
Michael is right. For the most part, DCC systems pretty much do the same thing. However, there are advantages and disadvantages to any DCC system on the market today. You not only have to decide on which system will best fit your “needs” (i.e. both current and future) but also on which one makes programming and operating the most logical and enjoyable. There are tradeoffs - no matter which system you use.
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I bought the NCE Powercab system from them, which is complete out of the box as is. Because I have a midsize HO scale layout (6’ X 19’), I also opted for the SB3 Smart Booster and 5 amp power supply. It was the one that felt right, seemed user-friendly (F functions seemed easy enough to access), and loved t
Welcome to the wonderful world of DCC. Thanks for sharing your DCC-buying experience with us.
Wanted to comment on a few things below…
Tom, that one might get some debate. On the NCE website, under SB3 discription it quotes: “Requires a power supply such as our P515.”
From what the guys at the hobby shop told me, it will only use as much amperage as it needs. NCE concurs.
Agreed. Carmine, may I suggest downloading the current version of the Power Cab manual from the NCE web site (v.1.28), printing it out, and placing it in a binder. I like have it on 8-1/2 x 11" paper and the manual gives you nice wide margins to jot notes in.
Just a side comment, Carmine. With the Smart Booster, your Power Cab is plugged into a UTP panel. You can buy additional UTP panels and daisy-chain them around your layout for more plug-in locations. However, you’ll still need your PCP panel for programming with your Power Cab. The nice thing is that you can now program from your bench area or wherever you’d like.
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Very true Tom. On my layout, if I could get a longer 4-lead c
Unless I am missing something, your programming on the main will not affect other decoders because, in OPS mode, you are talking to a specific decoder and not broadcasting (unless you use address " 0 ".
Cut and paste from your NCE manual.
" Programming on the Main is also called Operations (OPS) Mode programming. OPS programming allows you to change parameters while the loco is on the main track (even while it’s running). This does not affect other locomotives on the track. You can even change the locomotive address. "
Just playing it safe! I only have 3 locomotives on the track anyway. I did read the manual.
I did mention I’m brand new to DCC, and there’s alot more I DON’T know than I DO know.
I may try it…
I truly didn’t mean to mislead anyone with that statement, I was just stating how I decided to do it.
There are Yahoo DCC Groups for different DCC systems and decoders. The groups have Files and Photos sections with info from various members.
I use the NCE Power Cab. Check back before you purchase from a LHS. If you find competitive prices, you might get a better deal. My LHS can pretty much match online prices. Usually the price I pay is the cost including shipping that an onlie store will charge. I do buy online sometimes.
Rich, that website is an absolute wealth! I’ll be on that one for at least days, if not weeks!
The LHS I bought it from did match online price+shipping, but the service that went with it made the biggest difference!
I joined the Yahoo NCE-DCC Group. It has been alot of help as well.
Fortunately, I learn fast, but I have a LOT to learn here!!!
CV56 alone is giving me nightmares!!! Where’s the magic button for CV56.4 or CV56.10???
There isn’t any way I can see to go from CV56 to CV56 point anything!!!
Please don’t get into binary tables - I am binary stupid!!!
As far as the basics, everything is going better than I ever could have hoped!
I am so glad to finally get into DCC!!! Now I can’t figure out what took me so long!
The Yahoo! NCE-DCC group is indeed a great place. You’ll quickly find out that Mark (Gurries) and Marcus (Ammann) are the Dynamic Duo when it comes to answering questions.
You all might consider what I do. I save the pages to my hard drive as a HTML document in case the site ever goes away. Unfortunately I did not see the posting. This way all I have to do is click on the HTML icon in my hard drive and it opens up the complete page. All the photos and other files for that page are save also.
Try it some time, disconnect your PC from the web and go to the file manager. Click on the HTML Icon. The page should open up like you were on the 'Net. Make directories for each page.
Hey Rich, if you still have access to David’s original page how about copying it and pasting it here so all of us who didn’t save the original can get a copy of it too. [swg]
Carmine, quick question for you. You bought a 5-amp power supply with your Smart Booster (SB3)? Did you mean 3-amp wall transformer? The SB3 has a 3-amp limit. If you did buy the 5-amp transformer, you could ruin both your SB3 and your Power Cab.
THIS IS NOT TRUE!
You could put a 20 amp transformer on it and not hurt it.
The rating on the transformer is the MAXIMUM it can deliver.
Just as the 20 amp circuit in your house doesn’t ruin a 15 watt light bulb even though it draws less than 1 amp…
It will, of course, not increase the output of the Powercab.