I have a problem with some of my old 022 switches completing their track alignment which causes some derailments. I’ve taken them apart and tried to modify the moving contact assembly and lock hinge; these terms are used in the service manual. The swivil rail does not lock completely in either of the 2 extreme positions even at full power. I have tried bending the front bar slighly but the track only goes about 95% of the way. Out of 15 switches, I’d say about 1/2 have this plague. Has anyone found “the cure”? Also what’s the best way and substance to clean and shine bakelite pieces.
I wrote a long post about restoring 022 switches a few years ago. Do a Google search for 022/711 switch operating pblms. I have done more than 100 switches.
I have just finished a long project of restoring 55 022 switches. Here is what I have found and what I recommend. I hope I don’t miss anything. This involves oiling and soldering and a little adjustment. When you are done with the switches, they should operate very smoothly.
Remove the switch motor cover, the switch motor, and the back cover of the switch.
Lubricate the following places in the switch motor: The latch should be oiled at the pivots and where it slides over the moving piece that is connected to the solenoid. Lubricate the lantern pivot and the gear. Lubricate the slide that is attached to the solenoid. Lubricate the two rivets that hold the slide with the contacts. Put two drops of oil in the solenoid. Test the switch motor by putting a lantern in the lantern holder and turning it. It should turn very freely.
Solder all the crimp connections on the bottom side of the switch. These are often high resistance due to corrosion. I either wire brush them with a small soft wire wheel in a Dremel tool, or use a fine sandpaper wheel in the Dremel tool. There are a total of 6 places to solder: Two for the center rails, one for each of the rails that are the rails for the non-derailing feature, and two that connect the two outside rails together. To sand the clip that connects the two outer rails, I had to reverse the sanding disc on the Dremel tool. Don’t put too much solder on this clip, or the solder may interfere with the operation of the switch motor. Use a Scotchbrite pad to clean the clip where it contacts the switch motor frame. This is the ground connection between the switch motor and the outside rails. Clean the corresponding area on the switch motor, and put a little WD-40 on things. Tighten the screw that connects the center rail to the strap. Work the screw back
I have just finished a long project of restoring 55 022 switches. Here is what I have found and what I recommend. I hope I don’t miss anything. This involves oiling and soldering and a little adjustment. When you are done with the switches, they should operate very smoothly.
Remove the switch motor cover, the switch motor, and the back cover of the switch.
Lubricate the following places in the switch motor: The latch should be oiled at the pivots and where it slides over the moving piece that is connected to the solenoid. Lubricate the lantern pivot and the gear. Lubricate the slide that is attached to the solenoid. Lubricate the two rivets that hold the slide with the contacts. Put two drops of oil in the solenoid. Test the switch motor by putting a lantern in the lantern holder and turning it. It should turn very freely.
Solder all the crimp connections on the bottom side of the switch. These are often high resistance due to corrosion. I either wire brush them with a small soft wire wheel in a Dremel tool, or use a fine sandpaper wheel in the Dremel tool. There are a total of 6 places to solder: Two for the center rails, one for each of the rails that are the rails for the non-derailing feature, and two that connect the two outside rails together. To sand the clip that connects the two outer rails, I had to reverse the sanding disc on the Dremel tool. Don’t put too much solder on this clip, or the solder may interfere with the operation of the switch motor. Use a Scotchbrite pad to clean the clip where it contacts the switch motor frame. This is the ground connection between the switch motor and the outside rails. Clean the corresponding area on the switch motor, and put a little WD-40 on things. Tighten the screw that connects the center
Here is something else to look at after you have done everything else posted here.
I find that the alignment of the wipers that control when the motor cuts out can be off. Look carefully at the working switch motors and you will see there is a tiny pin that extends into the center slot of the wiper that holds it in the percise position. On the non-working switches that pin is broken off and the wiper angle shifts and causes the motor to move improperly and not fully switch.
Unfortunately I have yet to figure out how to repair this defect. that pin is incorporated into the slide assembly and you have to dissasemble the entire switch to replace it assuming you can find the part. And even if you do all that it appears there is a percision custom rivet that must be replaced to reassemble.