Old Loco on Code 83 Track

I run Code 83 track on my layout, and I recently aquired an older LifeLike engine and some older rolling stock. The wheel flanges on these older pieces are bumping on my Code 83 track. The rolling stock does not concern me, since I can buy newer wheelsets. But, the engine is a LifeLike GP-38-2 and replacement wheelsets are not available for it per Walthers. Does anyone have any suggestions or know if another company’s wheelsets (Athearn, Atlas, etc.) would work just fine in this engine? I hate to mothball it, because it has great pulling power.

What about swapping in the newer GP38-2 wheels if they will fit? I’ve never seen an older version so I don’t know what it takes to swap the wheels.

The wheel sets would cost more than the loco is worth.

David B

Working carefully with a file on the flanges of a locomotive (wheels turning under their own power) you can reduce the profile to something approximating RP25 contour. Slow and gentle is the key - that and working with the loco on its side, to keep the filings out of the machinery.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

[#ditto]

What he said!

[#ditto][#ditto] I would try and figure out a way to put the axle in a drill motor and file the wheel flanges. That way you don’t hurt the locos motor. Is this one of the old 4 wheel drive ones with traction tires? If it is, new wheels would definitely cost more than it’s worth.(if you could even find any that would fit.)

Lotta people have suggestted this over the years. Never tried it myself, but be aware that the gears and bearing in an HO locomotive may not take the pressure of a file for very long. Was it me, I’d pull the wheelsets out of the locomotive and turn the flanges down using a drill press as a lathe. Or a lathe, but few of us have one. Think about making a wooden sabot, larger in diameter than the wheels, to give the drill press Jacobs chuck something to grab onto. Take a short bit of 1/2" wooden dowel. Mark the center, and drill a hole that is a tight fit for the axle. Split the dowel in half with a knife, and voila, a sabot that grips the axle in the middle and lets the jacobs chuck grab something.

Or, to lighten the load on the locomotive if you go with the “use the locomotive as a lathe” trick, try a Dremel with an abrasive wheel rather than a file. The Dremel will cut with a lot less pressure than a plain old hand file needs.

Be aware that metal filings and abrasive wheel grit will do the locomotive works no good at all. Gears and such are plastic, and the motor magnet will suck up iron filings. Think about masking tape.

Forgive the rantings of an N scaler, but I can’t believe that the assemblies are very different.

Disassemble the trucks and have a close look at the axles. If I’ve guessed correctly, the wheels are pressed snugly into the plastic drive gear. This is to provide a method of gauging the wheels.

By carefully twisting, you should be able to remove the wheel and stub axle from the gear. You could then chuck the stub axle into a drill and turn it slowly while using a fine file to reduce the flange. If you know someone with a small lathe, that would be even better.

This might be your solution.

An old life-like loco? You would be better off buying a new loco from Athearn or Atlas or P2K than getting replacement wheelsets.

A Life Like engine that old isn’t worth the effort. Since you acquired it used = there cannot be real bucks involved.

1.RETIRE it, or

  1. BUY some code 100 track (too simple?).
  • unless you you want to play Machinist.