Old or New AC Transformer Questions?

Bob Nelson, I agree with your basic message, but will quibble a bit with your specifications:

The postwar Lionel 1033 was rated at 90 watts input and 60 watts output continuously or 5 amperes. As you say, one will produce about 16 volts output if the power grid is having a good day.

I admit it’s a distinction without much of a difference.

My source: The Complete Service Manual for Lionel Trains by K-line, first edition, page 633.

Note: if the original poster wants both whistle/horn and bell buttons, he might consider a Lionel CW-80 (as long as it has a “G” in the Made in China Date*), puts out 80 watts, and has a relatively small footprint; or the MTH Z-1000 which puts out 100 watts, is generally a little less expensive than the CW-80, and seems to have a good reputation.

  • Due to early production problems I cannot recommend any CW-80 that does not carry the “G” suffix, no matter how cheaply you can get one. Many of the CW-80’s that can be found on eBAY and elsewhere, even though advertised as “New in the box” are actually the early, unacceptable models. In other words, “new” doesn’t necessarily indicate the revised or “G” version.

Sorry if some of this is repetitive of some comments posted above. At least we are mostly in agreement.

You’re right. I mistakenly read the numbers for the 1032, which is described on the same page. As you say, 90, 60, and 5.

Well if you do decide to go with a postwar transformer, I suggest this website for rebuilt transformers that are in like new condition.

http://www.lioneltransformer.com/home

The owner is Davis Lyons. A VERY nice guy who knows his stuff about rebuilding and repairing postwar transformers. My choice, instead of buying two transformers would be to buy one ZW. There are plenty of them available on E-Bay now that Christmas is over, but figure on sending it in for a rebuild unless it has already been rebuilt. A ZW gives you the power to expand as well as power accessories.

Thanks for the neads up on the CW80, If I go that route I will likely check my LHS where they should have one in stock, I’ll look for that G designation, not buying another off Ebay.

Been doing some experimenting with my power packs, looks like I got two lemons and an orange. The two lemons being the Lionel packs I got, both only put out 18W (if that) on the track end, they will not or only barely move some of my engines, they are the lemons. The orange turns out to be the old really small Marx pack that the seller thru in as filler, its 25W output runs everything I put on the track, even provides too much power as the header my 999 took when it took a corner too fast, luckly the only damage was a broken light bulb…I need 25W or higher output on the track end, now I know what to look for

I always like to err on the side of too much than “just enough” when it comes to transformers [;)]

How did you determine that the transformers are putting out “18 watts”? Since watts equals volts times amps I’m curious how you measured. As far as your 999 roll over, that’s why the transformers have “throttles”. That old Marx takes a lot less voltage than most Lionels.

Just curious about your measurement techniques.

Observation and experimentation. At the power connectors of both Lionel packs have a small 18W stamp printed next to them, and the small Marx pack also has “25W output” printed on the top. I assumed that was the maximum wattage output on the track end, it certainly makes sense given the large size but lower wattage Lionels will barely move anything while the tiny but higher output Marx moves everything. As it is given my tight space constraints I am considering going with Marx packs, also the auto-reversing units Marx used are playing havoc with the Lionel packs built in directional control, the green light flickers constantly at slow speeds and will often snap the engine into reverse for no reason, especially at turnouts, I dont have this issue with the Marx pack. I’ve read where old Marx and new Lionel electronic controls are often at odds with each other.