Thanks to my father-in-law, I’ve got 4 old Rivarossi 0-4-0’s. The little Dockside is an American prototype, and I’ve managed to get Kadee’s and a TCS decoder installed in it. It’s now awaiting a valve gear repair, after shearing a pin on it’s maiden cruise.
The other 3 are clearly European, and they have those immense flanges on the wheels. They won’t run, even on Code 100, because the flanges ride up on the ties. Is there anything that can be done for these engines? I can bench-run them, and they perform OK, but the wheel issue has me stumped.
You could try powering the engines while having them turned up-side-down, hold a file on the flanges and let them file themselves down until they’re small enough for you.[:D]
They are all-metal wheels, I think, although I’m at work now and don’t have them here to look at. I don’t think grinding them down is really an option. If I ground down just the edges, then I would end up with a squared-off flange which wouldn’t be able to get through the switch points. I would have to grind them from the inside as well to maintain the proper taper.
I believe all old Riv. engines have plastic centers. There was an article in MR in the 70’s how to turn them down on a Unimat. I don;t think you need to worry about getting the taper correct. Any taper will do. If they fit through the switch points now they should when you are done. I filed the flanges on an E8 using a jewelers file. I eventually replaced them with Northwest wheels.
A method to grind down the flanges using a Dremel with the cut-off wheels can be used on the American Rivarossi models that run okay on code 100 but need to run on code 70 or so. It is done using a cradle and powered up loco. Grind at 45 degrees; limit the movement of the driver with your free thumb. Limit the heat, clean and re-oil.
Your loco sounds like a lot more material needs to be removed, if the contour of the flange will be changed. I believe what you are saying is that so much material needs to be removed, due to the European design, that you will then be into the “fat” part of the flange. Grinding a new taper of the flange using a Dremel is not a very precise option. While any taper may do, you need a consistent taper for smooth performance.
Perhaps changing them with a later set, but that could get costly.
Something else to look into is going to some of the small tool and die shops in your area. I cannot speak for MA, but here in the Detroit area they are very plentiful and due to the downturn in the auto economy are hungry. I have gotten axles for self-propelled lawnmowers custom made for $10; Toro discontinued the part but the previous price was $26! It’s worth a look, anyway. Make sure they understand the quartering / insulated wheel issue before they start so they do not pull the wheels. Perhaps let them do one loco, run it then see if you wi***o proceed with the rest. Simple work for a lathe.