Hi all. Newly back into model railroading after a 30+ year hiatus. My son has been the impetus for my renewed interest…I’ve been lurking on the forum for a couple months but have recently decided I need to ask some questions…starting with this one. I’m probably going to have a ton of questions so hopefully I won’t drive everyone nuts. [;)]
I currently own a bunch of track that was part of a set(s) my dad had bought in the late 50’s or early 60’s. I’ve cleaned some of it up and have a basic oval running right now. My question is would I be better off investing in some new track (e.g., flex track) or cleaning up what I have and using it? BTW - it’s HO.
I would say get new track. If you are going to start a layout, flextrack allows more arrangements than sectional track. But the old track may work just fine. If you have it clean and with no damage, there is no reason it shouldn’t do just as good.
Your old track is fine for experimenting and getting something simple running right away, but if it’s brass, I would recommend buying new Nickel-silver track for any kind of serious layout.
NS track is less succeptible to corrosion, needs far less cleaning, can look more realistic, and comes in many varieties and brands. It solders just as easily as brass but is somewhat less conductive so it will need more feeders.
As a category, flex track will give you infinitely more “flexibility” in track plan than sectional track too. Search the forum’s back posts for tons of great information.
I too came back after a long hiatus about two years ago. So many things have changed for the better - from materials to techniques. You are in for a great ride.
[#welcome] Definately new track. Track from the 50’s-60’s would almost certainly be brass. It tarnishes very easily and is not a good conductor when dirty. Flex track is now nickle-silver, which does not tarnish like brass, and will not need cleaning nearly as often, and[:D] the ties are plastic, not fiberboard like the old flextrack. Get some new track & enjoy the hobby!!
Heres my thoughts…Use what you have until you design your next layout then change to newer track…Not to mention you will save hobby dollars by not having to replace some of the track that can’t be used on your new layout.
Besides the issue of brass vs. nickel-silver, you also have to consider what king of equipment you will want to operate on your layout. The standard track radius for that era was 18" radius. Most diesels (with the exception of the Baldwin Centipede) of that era would operate on that raidus track. However, modern diesels are much longer and require a radius of at least 22" or greater. Even at this raidus, they probably will not be able to remain coupled to the train unless you have a transisition into that curve. For this, only the flex track will do.
[#ditto] If it’s not brass, go ahead and use it if it works. I don’t know what kind of research you’ve done, but here’s a link to the Atlas track site. You can take a look and maybe get some ideas. http://www.atlasrr.com/Code100web/index.htm
After having everything in sealed boxes for the last 20+ years, I’m finally going to be able to start again very soon. Spending time now doing research. Things sure have changed! I can’t wait to get started again. DCC, sound, animation, it’s killing me that it might be a couple more months yet before I can actually do anything.
In any case, I have much Nickle Silver (Atlas) track packed away. Some sectional, some flex and turnouts.
There comes the question. Have Atlas turnouts (Custom Line) changed over the years, or will the turnouts I have (circa 1975 or so) be DCC friendly?
TO SPECIFICALLY ANSWER your question: Your old track is probably brass.
As long as it conducts electricity and wheels follow it it WILL work.
Engines in your Dads era were generally smaller with 4 axle trucks. Todays engines are bigger and many use 6 axle trucks. 6 axle engines need more generous curves - such as 22" r.
Tighter radius curves will prefer 4 axle trucked engines such as those starting with ‘GP’ something. Engines in your Dads era were likely GP-7s, - GP-35’s and ‘F’ units.
Only use NEW rail joiners. Nickel silver track is all the rage today - should you need to buy new. (It looks slightly better and requres less maintenance).
50% of todays hobbyists never owned brass track, so look down their noses at it. I have had both, including some custom made ones with NS main and divirging brass (to represent a seldom used mainline spur).
ANY track (NS or brass) that is bent, don’t use. Replace. Most cars came with plastic wheels. BUY an NMRA gage.
I got back into the hobby myself a few years ago after a long hiatus and had the same consideration of use for old brass track. I ended up using the old brass in sidings and yards just for the great appearance. Old and less used. Looks great. Just an idea.
Hi all. I appreciate your help! Seems like this one is an open and shut case - new track is the way to go. Especially given the new stuff that keeps calling my name…like one of the UP Big Boys, DCC and one of those cool Shay engines…
I sure am glad my son is so interested and likes going to train shows [(-D]
G scale has changed a lot also; why not give it a look before investing in more HO? You may be surprised with what you find! Check out the Garden Railway forum on this site. Not all G is outdoors. It’s worth a look, isn’t it?
(you know in G scale you can get a Big Boy in radio control live steam, along with the shay in DCC or onboard battery/RC)
If I were to do it again today, jump back into the hobby like I did a year ago, I’d have gone N scale. I had HO too and went that way, but found that most of my engines were crap anyway, and had to buy new ones. If I had gone N, I’d have more room, more “scale” to work with. Plus N has really improved, from what I can see.
I’d also recommend, if you’re going for sectional track, which is easier, looking at all-in-one track (pre-ballasted), such as the Kato Unitrack line. In the end, the expense is probably the same, and you avoid a ton of tedious work in getting realistic-looking track. Especially if you’re not a micro-detailing type, but want something reasonably representative. Unitrack is easy to assemble, great joiners built it that help conduct electricity. Highly recommended if you’re going to replace your track set anyway.