older Atlas/Athearn engines and Kadee/knuckle couplers

[DeadheadGreg]

yeah, but how much are those per pair? The better bachmann ones are about 1.50, and I’ve had no problems at all with them. what problems would require a heavier duty metal coupler anyway? just curious

[dstarr]

Hey, I was just wondering what you all thought was the easiest way to mount knuckle couplers on older Atlas and Athearn engines. Is mounting a Kadee #5 with its own box the easiest, or would it be better to use McHenry/Bachmann EZmate self-centering knuckle couplers?

First off, find the Kadee coupler list. It recommends the best Kadee coupler for every piece of rolling stock manufactured since 1940. The list is published in the big Walther book, and on the Kadee web site. The recommended coupler will fit better with less filing and hacking. Worth the trip to the hobby shop to buy the right coupler.

Second, you want insulating or insulated couplers on locomotives. If a metal coupler makes electrical contact with the loco chassis you will have a short circuit when you double head steam or consist diesel units.

A lot of Athearns come with a snap on plastic coupler box. It’s worth the effort to drill and tap the Athearn chassis to accept a 2-56 screw and use that to secure the Kadee supplied coupler box. Then you will never have the coupler pop off the locomotive and dive for the floor. The Kadee box also solves the coupler droop problem you get with the stock plastic Athearn box.

Kadee couplers are stronger, and more trouble free than the clones from McHenry & Bachmann. Last time I bought couplers, the clones cost as much as the real Kadee’s, so why mess around with a not-so-good product that costs just as much as the real thing?

[DeadheadGreg]

sorry to dig up an old thread, but I just had a couple more questions.

1. do i have to cut off the outer semi-circle sections of the kadee coupler box?

2. can I just super-glue the coupler box into the frame?

3. if I tap the body to accept a 2-56 screw, is there any chance that the plastic body will crack anywhere from the stress?

[bogp40]

sorry to dig up an old thread, but I just had a couple more questions.

1. do i have to cut off the outer semi-circle sections of the kadee coupler box?

2. can I just super-glue the coupler box into the frame?

3. if I tap the body to accept a 2-56 screw, is there any chance that the plastic body will crack anywhere from the stress?

I usually cut those side mounts off. They were used as an alternate mounting.

I would tap and screw the box to the frame. A bit of Goo or CA may be used to help keep the box positioned. Don’t glue until you are satisfied with the overall operation and adjustments for the coupler.

If you use the Kadee drill and tap set, you should never experience any problems with cracking the plastic. As long as at least 2-3 threads can grab you should be OK, http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page164.htm .

You should also check into Kadee box shims, red fiber washers (shimming bolsters/ trucks) and the 2/56 Delrin screws. I like the Delrin as it can be cut to any length very easily with a blade.

[DeadheadGreg]

Cool, right on. What did you use to cut the sides off of the coupler mount box?

I’m thinking of making a trip up to the LHS today and pick up a bunch of #38 couplers, because thats what the Kadee website said to use with pretty much every Athearn engine. Or was it Atlas? Gahhhh i have to go back and check now

[bogp40]

Cool, right on. What did you use to cut the sides off of the coupler mount box?

I’m thinking of making a trip up to the LHS today and pick up a bunch of #38 couplers, because thats what the Kadee website said to use with pretty much every Athearn engine. Or was it Atlas? Gahhhh i have to go back and check now

A #11 Xacto with a little pressure, if you yant to get fancy, you can shave them so the box wouldn’t show they ever existed.

[Rotorranch]

KaDee has some “insulated” couplers that have a plastic shank and metal knuckles. These work ok for applications where a metal frame loco needs to be electrically isolated. They are more prone to breaking the shank than the all metal couplers. But I’ve had better luck with them than the all plastic KaDee “clones”.

I don’t remember the part number offhand. Might be 37 or 38?

Rotor

[TomDiehl]

KaDee has some “insulated” couplers that have a plastic shank and metal knuckles. These work ok for applications where a metal frame loco needs to be electrically isolated. They are more prone to breaking the shank than the all metal couplers. But I’ve had better luck with them than the all plastic KaDee “clones”.

I don’t remember the part number offhand. Might be 37 or 38?

Rotor

All Kadee 20 and 30 series couplers are plastic insulating type. The different numbers within the series are the long, medium, and short shank, plus offset or centered head couplers. The last digit within the series will be the same offset or shank length (ie. the 27, 37, and 47 couplers are all the same profile–medium length shank, underset head). 27 and 37 are the plastic ones, 47 is the metal one.

PS: the #38 is the same profile (in plastic) as the #5, centered head, medium length shank.

[Rotorranch]

__Tom…you are correct. I was going from memory without checking the KaDee chart found here: **http://kadee.com/conv/convpl.htm**__

Thanks for posting the part numbers.

Rotor

[DeadheadGreg]

I went out and got a pair of the whisker couplers, and I like those a lot. I hate how on some Athearns, you see the bronze centering springs if you don’t mount a whole coupler box.

I also realize that Athearn has 2 kinds of engines, those with the coupler lid that mounts on top of the coupler, and those that mount underneith the coupler. I forget which is which, but one of them is easiest to mount a regular, assembled #5 that is at the correct height.