I picked up some older used P2K brown box locos cheap. Two of them run, but the gear mechanism bucks and snaps and pops down the track. At first I thought there was something underneath catching on the ties, or that the code83 track was too shallow for their age…but no, it is in the drive assembly.
I have not torn apart any gear mechanisms in my early days on this hobby, and do not know what to expect. Anybody have experience with this problem from old P2Ks? Otherwise they are in good shape…shells pristine in fact.
P2ks are notorious for getting cracked gears and it sounds like that is your problem. You will have to completely tear down the trucks to replace the gears, which isnt too difficult just make sure you dont lose anything. It is also a good opportunity to clean and lube everything. I know replacement gears are available, but I have never had to get any myself so im not sure who makes them. Im thinking A-Line might, but somebody can tell you for sure.
Boy I have been down that track a few times. Seem the old Brown Box PK2000’s are copyed athearn blue boxes. I used Athearn 60024 center gears 6 for $1.75. Flip the engine up side down with shell off. The plate that covers the bottom of the truck will pop off with a little prying from one end then the other. Cover the plate with your hand when you do the other end, some time they like to go air borne.
Use a NMRA gauge to set the wheels after you install the new gears. If the brass bearings are thin you can replaces then or bend the steel side frames in a little. Big but easy thing is make sure the bearings (brass things) are not behinde the cover plate when you snap it back in places.
I have 6 Brown Box Proto 2000’s, all have came in with cracked center gear’s. I would rate them just a little over the Athearns Blue boxes because of details. But no where near what I would rate the Blue and Gray Box Protos 2000’s or the Proto 1000’s.
I love my BL2’s that are Brown boxes. Doubled headed are pulling 46 cars up a 1.5% grade.
If you need some PIC let me know and I will pull one a part.
Walthers is really excellent about providing service for these and it is a SNAP to pop out those cracked gears. Just email/call them. In about 10-14 days I got my new gears, no questions or problems.
I have the same problem with a GP7 (P2k blue box), I emailed walthers and got this reply:
“Steve,
The replacement axle (two per package) is 584408 and cost $3.00 per pair
plus shipping and handling ($5.95 plus 20% on orders less than $150.00).
Provide your mailing address, credit card information (card number,
expiration date, three digit security code from the backside of the card)
and the number of replacement axles you need and I will process your
request.”
The shipping cost are because I’m overseas, but there was no mention of free replacements. I guess I asked wrong so ordered them anyway, in saying that my credit card has yet to be charged.
Did you send in the warranty card? Or do you have a receipt from date of purchase…not sure if warranty is transferable… (read the small print). They had mine on file, so maybe that was why I had no problem (ok, I know, I am a bit anal… I actually fill out those things and send them in!)
Thanks a bunch you guys. I really appreciate knowing that this is a common but solvable problem. I also appreciate the instructions so far and the offer of even more detailed instructions when I get my parts in from Walters.
Yes, I love the newer P2Ks. Have just purchased for a great price, an E8/9 AB pair with DCC and QSI sound, and a U30B likewise. But have done my own conversions on 3 others. Lovum!
However, can’t get the E8 to enter shutdown mode using my Zephyr controller and F9 key. Have to call up some tech help here.
You know, I was going to send in the cards for several P2Ks I had just bought, then read, “returning this card is not necessary to obtain a warranty”. Seems the returned cards are just to keep one’s name on file for product updates…a common practice. Although Bachmann wants the cards returned. Yet they just mailed me a brand new 44 ton switcher for the price of postage to replace one I have bought second hand without any warranty. These are not expensive anyway, but I was pleased…the new one is DCC ready and has Kadee style couplers, which the one that got fried by me did not.
In many cases it’s not necessary to tear the trucks down completely. Usually all I have to do is remove the bottom of the truck and lift the wheelsets out. Only when I had to go into an E unit was more work involved. In most cases, axles from old Athearn F units fixed my problems nicely.