hi
part of the problem is that the loops are run counter clock-wise only.
The yard should not start beyond the arrival track, but before it.
If both track 2 and 3 will be used as arrival/ departure tracks, not really needed, you will have to add both “BLUE- EXTRA” cross-overs.
An extra connection from the yard lead to the main is nice to have. A drawing of your room would make helping you much easier.
Smile
Paul
Paul,
Are you proposing a single crossover at the bottom and a double crossover at the top where your diagram shows “extra”? Just want to be sure that I am interpreting your diagram correctly.
Rich
hi Rich,
if track 1 and 2 are used as main, only track 3 is for arrival and departure of trains, the two (red) single cross-overs will do. (both are on the legs, just before the “loops”)
if you use both track 2 and track 3 for arrival and departure, track 1 only as thouroughfare, you will need the two blue extra cross-overs.
Paul
Thanks, Paul.
It will be interesting to have the OP weigh in on this and, hopefully, provide a more detailed room plan.
Rich
Paul,
So, in your proposed track plan, you would have a double mainline that collapses into a single track at the top and bottom where the loops occur, and then the crossovers at the point of re-entry into a double mainline would be gapped because the loops would be reversing sections, correct?
Rich
Well, nobody can ever accuse me of making this place boring. [:)]
OK, I took the double crossover and moved it, which makes the yard larger. I don’t know what I was thinking last night (it was a very long day).
Everything else on the plan remains the same. I took that layout & added items to clarify the situation.
I crudely drew in both doors (using sectional track as doors, lol, too lazy to draw it in CAD) and added a rough idea for the benchwork. Note how there’s a few 3 foot wide access points on the footprint. These are necessary to enter the room, and then enter the layout between Loops 1 & 2, and for reaching cars between Loop 2 and the long wall section.
The track is close to the benchwork edge as it is… maybe too close. Going outside the existing main line isn’t possible with this benchwork. And I really can’t go any bigger with the benchwork to accommodate a second main line outside the first main line because that will close the access point between loops 1 & 2 from 36 inches down to, what, 30? That’s too tight.
hi
i still think the double cross-over has no real function.
It could be nice to clearly indicate the function of the yard tracks.
Keep smiling
Paul
EDZ,
Just out of curiosity, what type of motive power are we talking about here?
Steam?
6-axle diesels?
4 axle diesels?
Passenger cars? How big?
Freight cars? How big?
Rich
Paul,
That may be correct.
Initially, we were responding to the OP’s question about using a double crossover on the mainline instead of two separate crossovers. He had eliminated the double crossover due to cost, but he started wondering if he could simplify the wiring by eliminating the crossovers that created reverse loops.
But, the discussion and planning has evolved since then, perhaps rendering the double crossover irrelevant.
Rich
2 GP-38 locomotives to start off with, maybe a small switcher in the yard to assemble cars into a train. I might go with a larger loco in the future.
No passenger cars
Freight cars, 50 & 57 foot. Nothing very long.
-Ed
I’m just trying to get the most bang for the buck.
I want to assemble trains in the yard and deliver the cars to sidings. If cars are already there, remove the cars from the sidings and return them to the yard. And then start over, if I wish. I think that having a purpose adds interest. I will also have a train (or two) running around the looped layout, as well, probably assisting in delivering cars. Or maybe not.
Why switch directions? No disrespect intended to anyone thinking differently, but I’m not a fan of trains going around in an endless circle. I think changing direction adds visual appeal as it helps to knock down the endless circle effect - along with aiding in delivering cars to sidings. Again, I’m not trying to insult anyone, this is simply my opinion/feelings. Some people find a circle or figure eight fun. That’s fine, I’m not judging anyone. That’s just not me or what I want.
The problem is that I’m a novice and I’m really not grasping the functionality aspect very well. I draw a plan, or revise one I drew 50 times (lol), and then import it into Trainplayer to check how it “works”. But accessibility plays a major role. It severely limits my floorspace, but I have to be able to get to things and/or reach things, within reason of course.
-Ed
Ed,
The diagram of your floor space helps a lot.
OK, so you want to switch directions at will to heighten the action. You want a yard. You want sidings.
I don’t have track planning software, but I worked out a possible track plan on Excel. See if this track plan is of any interest to you.
It is essentially a double main line folding back into itself creating two reverse loops.
The foldback will send the train back on the same track in the opposite direction.
The red dots can be either crossings or slips, whatever your preference.
There is a crossover within each loop to change tracks and return to the main line in the opposite direction from which the train entered the loop.
A double crossover is placed in the center of the main line tracks
Hi all,
I just want to use the opportunity to ask a question here. As I understand, you are asking a two fold question - mechanical and electrical. Electrics are a piece of cake in my mind as long as you are on DCC. You just isolate the section, install an auto reverser and off you go. Mechanical, however is something I do stumble across in US articles on Model Railroads (I’m from Europe), but never understood fully. You see, any turnout I have bought here in Europe over the last 6 years or so, takes a train with no problem from whatever direction is the train coming and irrelevant to what the turnout is set to. I mean, there is no such thing as aligning the turnout properly apart from making the train go where you want it to. If the turnout happens to be aligned the “wrong way”, it is designed so, that the train wheels will push the frogs off the rails and get through with no problem. When the wheel flange of the last car has passed the turnout, a small spring inside it will firmly push the frog against the rail ready for the next train again. Irrespectively of where it will be coming from and going to. Is it any different with US track and why don’t you, just buy European track? Or did I ask something silly now? 
Cheers,
My experience is if the turnout is in the wrong position and you try to pass through a derailment occurs. Happens to me all the time. This is with Atlas, PECO, Shinohara and Bachmann. (Those are the one’s I have experience with)
Edmunds is saying that the European-style turnouts will reset from a divergent path to a straight path if a train approaches against a divergent route on the straight through track, thereby preventing a derailment.
Rich
hi
Märklin switches are made that way, a very light spring is doing the trick. But with 2-rail systems the points are needed for electrical contact… A tight fit is needed, beside creating shorts when used against the set route.
Smile
Paul
Thank you, everyone, for your ideas.
-Ed
Ed,
Let us know once you decide what you want to do with your layout and track plan. We look forward to a track diagram and photos. Good luck.
Rich
I’d like to see that, myself. [:D]
Thanks, Rich.
-Ed