I would like to know what everyone thinks about the Proto 2000 E8/E9 locos. I know nothing [D)] about passenger train locos. (or models of them). My layout is all modern UP equipment, but I would like a UP A/B E9 set to model a “director’s special” train to add a little something different. I have an SD60M, and an SD50 from the P2K line and I LOVE them. The details are great, they run very smooth and quiet, and they pull like a team of mules. I would just like to know if the E9s from Life Like follow this same pattern. Thanks in advance for any input you can give.
Kevin,
You won’t be dissappointed! I have several P2K E units and they run incredibly smooth. I especially like the heavy weight which is a big help with simulating momentum.
In my humble opinion, these are among P2K’s “best ever” locomotives they’ve produced. I’m looking forward to installing DCC w/sound.
BTW: This is If you decide you want sound in your UP E-units. For the horn sound, the closest is the Soundtraxx Leslie “S5” horn. Available in the DSX and DSD decoders.
http:www.soundtraxx.com (see sound samples)
I may be mistaken, but the prototypes currently use an RS5 or similar horn.
I have one of the of the P2K E8/9’s(soon to be come a WSOR E unit), and I really like it. It runs smooth, and is very quiet. I like the Mars light a lot too. My one complaint is that it takes a lot of juice to get it moving. But I don’t have much experience with high end models, so I don’t know if that’s normal or not.
Noah
I second this:
In my humble opinion, these are among P2K’s “best ever” locomotives they’ve produced. I’m looking forward to installing DCC w/sound.
I had the first release of the E8’s amd they run great and looked nice overall. The only thing that needed updating were the Farr grills on the sides. The orginal ones are not detailed.
Very nice–and the Mars light is great. My one complaint about the E8–over the P2K E7–is that it is not the easiest thing to convert to Kadees. Kadee recommends the type of coupler with the triangular type coupler box that does not have the usual #5 spring. I suppose it can be done, but I have had a devil of a time getting that other type of coupler box to stay connected.
I have currently 1 E7 RI, 1 E8 Ri, 1 E8 Sou, 3 Amtrak E8/9 A/B’s, UP E9 949 and 951 EX 's. They all run and look great. I just reserved the new UP E8 A/B with DCC and sound. I’m also thinking about another RI E with DCC and sound. The Proto 2000 E’s are great! The new series uses the easiest DCC installation you can imagine. Just plug it in.
RMax1
without sound: [tup][tup]
with sound: [tup][tup][tup][tup][wow]
Proto 2000 E- 8/9
Wth a Kato UP Business car fine, and dandy, but - .
Get rid of those !@#$!! coupler’s.
I’ve got two SP E units in Daylight colours - brilliant runners, even though they do take a bit of power to get going! Once movingthough - they have got enough guts to move a 15 car train (Athearn Streamliners/Spectrum Heavyweights) with ease. I usually run them in an A+B+A formation so two powered units stroll away with alomst any train I give them.
Not too sure how much better the Broadway models are - but I suppose its all down to how much you want to spend, and if you want sound etc etc etc.
I too remember having a little trouble converting them to be fitted with Kadee’s although the one thing that sticks out is that the body was so easily removed when I got fed up, I could put them back together, put them back in the box and chill out with a beer, and come back to them the next day, now having to worry about removing a load of small screws!
Regards,
Stephen.
CubanRailways,
Just curious. After reading your post, I tested two of of my E7s.
I have an MRC TECH II 2500 powerpack that I bought 10 years ago (no longer made). They started crawling when I cracked the throttle, as do my other P2K E units. Yet, when I put them on a friend’s layout, it’s top speed was quite low.
His MRC Railpower 1300 just didn’t cut the mustard too well for higher speeds. As for my P2K’s current draw-----less than one amp.
What type of powerpacks are you using, as this can make a difference?
The Broadway Limited E-units do require more “juice” to get them going because of the sound system’s. From my limited understanding, a capacitor is used in BLI’s to help sound continue when locos hit dirty track.
For straight DC layouts that will have BLIs running on it, powerpacks with some “oomph” is a good idea.
Tampantonio:
Your Tech II 2500 as I remember was 2.5 amps (30VA) and one of MRC’s better effort’s.
Problem with power supplies is voltage drops as amps increases. Today’s Tec 4’s are trypically 16 - 17 VA (divided by 12 volts) = 1.4 amps. 2 ‘typical’ BB Athearn’s pull 1 - 1.5 amps by their motor’s alone. Add to that light’s, sound, and possible accessories.
The only mrc DC Pak I would buy today is the 9500 - with meter’s. You notice that most of the DCC throttle booster’s are 4 amps and above.
Unfortunately for DCC user’s ,meter’s dont read PCM - Pulse Wave Modulation .
Don,
I appreciate that info. Thanks!
I actually thought that my MRC 2500 was obsolete compared to today’s newer MRC powerpacks.
Even though I’m converting to DCC, I’m keeping it and will use attach it to the Digitrax Zephyr’s “jump port”, to allow for a 2nd operator.
Take care.