I have read several topics regarding members ranking of plastic steam locomotives manufacturers. Are there any opinions on Brass ranking in terms of quality? How would you rank them overall from top down?
Overland before they became BLI, Samhongsha, Railworks Tenshodo Crowns are all very good. I would want to test any Gem, Trains, Alco or older engines. I was just thinking this morning about the difference and any more about the only advantage brass has is in durability during handling. Other than that I think plastic is better, more easily modified, easier to fix and takes paint better.
I have maintained that brass holds it’s value better than plastic, overall, with some manufacturers better than others. When you go to sell your brass pieces, in some instances you will actually have a gain, some will maintain value and some will loose value. Plastic for the most part will have lost value. Generally, the newer pieces are well engineered and run well and will last a long time.
Brass also allows smaller runs which allows less popular prototypes to be modeled.
That’s chief advantage I see in buying brass, the disadvantage is the higher cost.
Enjoy
Paul
I wouldn’t mind owning a brass locomotive or two if it’s something specific I want, like an SDP40f or NH EP5 which weres produced in HO brass.
My only concern:
I’ve heard over and over that many brass diesel locomotives “Growl” even louder than [blueAthearn Blue Box units.[/blue] I remember back around 1983 I told my LHS rep that I wanted to buy a brass HO U-50. He told me not to go for it because it “ran like a Rock Crusher!” Really surprised me.
I’m assuming that today’s brass units are much quieter since technology has improved.
Can those of you that own brass give us your input regarding noise levels. I’m planning on installling DCC/Sound in most of the locomotives, plastic or brass, that I purchase in the future so I would like “growling” to be kept to a minimum as it could be distracting.
Cheers! [:D][8D]
Brass loco construction was new to the Korean builders in the early 70’s and as such there wasn’t any engines coming in during the period of the 70’s that could be considered equal to the builders of Japan during this time period. Some of the early Korean models would be considered rough, at best.
Most of the Japanese builders put out a quality product with excellent assembly and soldering work, which took the Korean builders many years to gain the expertise to duplicate this level of finish. Samhongsa in the early 80’s began to come close to the Japanese builders and since then has easily equaled, if not exceeded the Japanese in fit and finish. Ajin, which began to build locos about the same time as Samhongsa, has also improved their quality immensely over the past 25 years, although probably not to the detail of Samhongsa. Ajin is the builder of choice for Overland Models. Samhongsa is doing work for several importers, but as prices continue to climb several importers have began to look elsewhere for their models.
Since about 1974 when Korean builders came on the scene due to Japanese imports becoming too expensive for the U.S. there has probably been 25-35 builders that have came and gone in the marketplace. Most of the products of these builders ranged from average to poor.
Quality builders in Japan included KTM, KMT, United, Tenshodo, and Fuji. PFM was one of the best importers of brass products and standing behind the models for warranty work.
Fortunately today, while you have few Korean manufacturers to choose from, the products are generally quite good, with Samhongsa and Ajin leading the pack. Some of the importers like W&R and Challenger have produced some extremely fine models from builders that have had a less than stellar reputation, but probably for someone looking for a reliably built locomotive it would be tough to improve on the Samhongsa or Ajin models.
Overland never became BLI. Oriental was run by the same person that started BLI, but that person has now been relieved of his BLI position.
Overland is still importing Brass and they have imported many good products that are now too expensive for the average person.
Almost any of the older KTM engines were very good, but not detailed like the new models. Balboa, Westside and some other select importers used KTM.
This seems to be a bi-monthly post, which is o.k. to see the different views. It would seem replies FOR brass will only come from those that can afford to buy them, and they are bloody expensive, I hear great reviews of the new breed of plastic locos, so they must be doing something right. As for brass “holding value” find out what the dollar was worth when purchased and what that equates to today, you may be in for a big surprise. If you are looking for "value’'-- play the stock market, and enjoy your locomotives, that’s what the hobby is all about.
The other (definite minority) opinion that pops up in brass discussions is that many folks out there are stuck with the choice of buying brass or scratchbuilding when it comes to obscure prototypes–especially traction! Not all brass is expensive (especially traction) and not all plastic is cheap.
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Good used brass is out there for reasonable prices if you want to look for it (which I do). Check your LHS, sometimes there are consignment locos that just aren’t available in plastic, and sometimes the prices are too good to pass up. Attend railroad shows, swap meets. I just picked up a gorgeous KTM brass steamer today at a railroad show for far less than a new comparable plastic steamer, and it runs just as well. And one thing about brass–it’s generally easier to tinker with than some of the newer complicated plastic locos. I’ve got a lot of brass, I run them, and they run just fine. I certainly like the new plastic steamers, but if you search, you can get a used brass model of a particular prototype you’ve been wanting for almost the same price. And don’t tell me you can’t, because I do it all the time.
Tom
I can only give you my experiences with well used or abused brass so here goes: regardless of brand, open frame motored older brass can vary in noisieness like the Athearn B Boxes. I have a couple of engines that do a swinging impression of a coffee grinder and others that are as quiet and smooth as some can motored locos I have. Everyone has their own favourites/biases if you can see and hear it run it’s definately the way to go. I mostly buy the older scruffier locos of what I want so any “investment value” they may have is probably more imaginery than factual, I buy them to run so I am too much of a cheapskate to pay the real high prices for something that really would devalue with use. Always buy the best condition loco you can afford, fixer upper projects always cost more than expected and usually much more than a good condition complete locomotive unless you were looking for a project. You would be amazed how much the small parts cost, how fast they add up and patience isn’t just a virtue it’s a requirement if you buy a project!!