My logging branch switchback incline is nearing completion of phase 1. I’m using the WS inclines and riser system .
I’ve used the plaster-cloth method to cover them before - are there better alternative methods out there?
Also looking for ideas about how to handle the scenic countouring of the resulting vertical walls. Can’t see myself building 5 feet of cribbing or rock walls
Maybe not better but alternate.
Cardboard strip and structolyte works great. Carved pink foam is OK too for outcroppings and cliffs.
Pretty steep hillside (2" run 8" rise)
Steeper Hillside (1" run for 9" rise)
At the base is a track on a 2% grade, below that is a ten foot long escarpment of hand laid real stone (my wife’s work) to the main line. The image below is an early shot.
Don’t be afraid of long cliffs if you have a large layout. But do try to vary the slope - it’s more visually interesting. Check my web page for more ideas if you’d like.
Have fun!
Karl
Great work, Karl - could you supply the link to your website, please?
A 1/8 inch coat of drywall mud over the cloth can be easily carved for about three days and then painted. This scene incorperates some of that. The rocks are partly cast and partly carved in foam.
Here is an example of the same thing done on a thin sliver of foam. The pic is of the road, but the wall shows a little
Sculptamold is also very good for texturing those steep cliffs. It dries with a naturally ‘grainy’ surface, and stays pliable for quite a while so that you can do either carving or casting with it. I’ve used it in several long cuts on my MR to good effect.
Tom [:)]
Sure - just click on the little blue [www] button at the bottom of my post. You can set this up in your user profile. It’s a handy feature - if you see the button then the writer probably has a web site behind the link.
It also saves us lazy people from typing http://stremy.net/SRA/Saint_Remy_and_Atkarton_Railroad_Co_.html and then making the link active.
Karl
Is there a “D’oh!!” smiley in the bunch? I’ve seen those little ‘WWW’ buttons for so long and never used them - they became invisible.
[D)] [#oops] [%-)] [:I]
and last but not least
[X-)]
Frisco
Another option (although a little pricey) is rubber rock molds from Cripplebush. I have the Santa Fe Canyon, (30" x 12") and the detail is very good, also they are pre-weathered. I haven’t installed it yet so no pics.
http://www.cripplebush.net/pages/santafecanyon1detail1.htm
Kanawa Creek Rail Supply has them for a better price.
I’ll second Geared Steam on the Cripplebush rocks–I’ve used them while re-doing the rock faces on my Sierra Buttes, and they’re really FINE! But like he says, they’re a little pricey. However, one of the advantages is that you can cut them to fit. And you can mount them to your sheer face with either hot glue or contact cement (I prefer the latter). But they look VERY good.
Tom [:)]
“Geared” & Tom -
I had seen those Cripplebush rocks before; but never paid much attention. Now that you guys have reminded me and I did pay attention - I’m definitely sold.
I have to weigh “a little pricey” against their versatility - plus the fact I could never hope to achieve that look in two months of Sundays. Too many other tasks to deal with. With the amount of ‘vertical acreage’ I have to cover - they seem ideal.
Muchas gracias
Well do the walls have to be steep?? You could just wad up newpaper and put it on either side of the riser and tape it in place, than put plaster cloth over it and the riser to form a more gentle slope.
I like to use latex rock molds and apply the castings to the substructure before the plaster sets. This allows the molds to conform to surface changes and it’s easier to blend the castings together once the molds are removed from the castings. I use White Art Plaster for my castings. It is a much whiter plaster than Plaster of Paris. Here’s an example:
Don Z.
Don–
There you go AGAIN, and I’m still drooling! [:P] Seriously, your rockwork is just superb! And a good idea–I’ve tried rockwork with Hydrocal out here in a hot, dry climate, and it just sets up WAY too fast. I like your ideas with the slower-setting white plaster.
Tom [:)]
Tom,
When it’s in the high 90’s to low 100’s with about 28% humidity here, I understand what you mean about plaster setting too fast. I mix my plaster in batches of 6 cups of plaster to 5 cups of water. I stir and blend it by hand, so I can feel and eliminate all of the lumps in the mix. It feels much like tomato soup in consistency when first mixed. I then set the bowl aside for a few minutes, dipping my finger into the mix frequently to check the consistency. Once it feels like pancake batter, it gets poured into the molds. I let the plaster sit in the mold for maybe another 2 minutes or so, then pick up the mold full of plaster and place it onto the hill/cliff or where ever it’s going. The mold stays on the plaster for about 3 or 4 minutes, and then the mold is removed well before the plaster is set. After a second mold is applied, any overlapping areas are easily popped off with a small chisel and hammer, leaving a blend line that’s almost invisible.
Don Z.
Some amazing rockwork, Don.
The switchback incline means some fairly steep sides in spots - I’ll try to lessen the slope where I have the clearance. The WS inclines are 2 1/4" wide - so things get narrow especially at turnouts.
I do appreciate the excellent tips - I may end up with a “mish-mosh of methods” but I’m confident I’ll get good results. My rock-carving skills never developed - it will likely be cast or rubber rocks for me; perhaps some tie-cribbed retaining wall.
Like everything else, it takes practice to ge it right. Of course it would be nice to see it done right first. Too bad there isn’t a video that shows you exactly how stuff like this gets done.
Irv
I’ve actually seen some of those videos, Irv - and they’re very good - but none of them can guide my hand or give me the time to practice. Like I said - with so many other tasks left to do (plus being more of a ‘runner’ than a ‘builder’) I’ll probably opt for spending a bit more money and a lot less time to get some decent results.
Irv,
I’m not sure what you mean by “see it done right first”. This is my first layout that I’m building…I never thought of using video while I was doing my plaster work. I have another section to plaster in the near future and I’ll see if I can find someone with a video camera to record the process and see if it can be edited down to a manageable file size.
Don Z.
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=+foam+scenery&search_type=&aq=f
Here’s a couple videos on different methods.
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=model+trees&search_type=&aq=f
Making trees
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=painting+trees&search_type=&aq=f
Painting trees for backdrops.
Youtube is great for “how to” videos.