Order of construction - how do you do it?

[davidmurray]

I would strongly suggest all track (and wiring) done before scenery or ballasting.

As soon as possible run trains, alone if that is how you will continue, group operations if that is your thing. Every engine under load down every track proves the track work/wiring. Operations will show any need for more passing tracks, etc. Changes are easier and less disheartening the less you need to take up.

Dave

[kasskaboose]

Avoid what I did on my 1st layout by doing scenery and then all the wiring. Not pretty! I learned that lesson the hard way.

On the 2nd (current) layout, here’s what I did (in order):

1. Build ALL benchwork

2. Glue down foam and draw layout on foam.

3. Put down cork sub-roadbed based on schematic I drew.

4. Added track.

5. Add wiring and check it works!

6. Tested, tested, tested locos for derailments. This is essential! Do tests of locos going forward, backward, different speeds and with cars behind too. Think a few months.

7. Add scenery, which includes track ballast.

[gdelmoro]

Thanks for all the replies.

Guess i have about another year before all track is laid [:|]

[mbinsewi]

Gary, can we see more of your backdrop work?

Mike.

[gdelmoro]

gdelmoro
Hi all, as some of you know I’m building a new layout. I finished the room and painted the backdrop. I’ve started the bench work and yard track.

Gary, your backdrop looks great. Did you paint it yourself?

Sorry John, must have missed your post. Yes I printed the backdrop. If only my track lying skills were as good. For me it’s just a matter of finding the right reference pictures. In this case it’s the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia.

Now I’m trying to install some mainline curves with transitions [%-)]

[riogrande5761]

Back drops look quite good; you’ve got some skill with paints!

[SeeYou190]

Tested, tested, tested locos for derailments. This is essential! Do tests of locos going forward, backward, different speeds and with cars behind too. Think a few months.

.

And do your testing with problem locomotives and cars. If you do all your testing with a Stewart F3 pulling a short train of 40 foot cars all weighted properly and equipped with Kadee wheels, you will not find anything.

.

I am going to test everything next time with an 8 driver steamer pulling a mix of 40 and 50 foot freight cars and one Athearn 86 foot high cube. All with cheap plastic wheels.

.

-Kevin

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[popp88]

Thanks for sharing guys.

[IC_Tom]

@riogrande5761

I do pretty much as Onewolf.

I finished the basement first as I didn’t want to stair at ugly silver insulation and studs.

I’ll put in much of the benchwork first and lay track on areas like the staging yard before adding the main yard benchwork above. Then scenery.

As you can see on my previous layout, it makes sense to install track in some areas before adding more benchwork:

There is a logical progression that just seems common sense.

When I get a little farther on the other end, I’ll start working on staging tracks. That will also give me a break from the bench-work for a bit.

That’s a bigger collection of STRAIGHT wood than I’ve seen at any supplier.

Mine is all ripped plywood and it’s not even that straight.

[ronpetrich]

I wish I could say I was disciplined in my approach but alas I am not. I built my layout in my drafty detached garage in stages, ultimately 18x18 around the walls, with a peninsula, 6x8, in the middle, and a hinged double track bridge where the garage door is. When I started 6 years ago I had a filthy garage that had nothing but junk, bugs, mildew, garden tools, etc that had accumulated for years. The rafters were also loaded. A couple of calls to the junk man thinned it out dramatically to the point where I could begin. But 5 years ago I had no idea what I wanted, only that I wanted n scale and DCC. I bought AnyRail and started playing. After 3 months or so I had settled upon the around the walls design, but it extended only on 2 walls. Not very daring. Started with benchwork, cantilevered shelf 30" deep, 45" high, 1/2" ply with 1" pink foam on top. 12’ x 18’. I thought that would last a lifetime (I was 73 then). Settle on Kato Unitrack and ESU ECoS. The Anyrail saved a ton of money by limiting the track I bought to what I needed, even though I revised my track plan at least a zillion times (and continued to do so for the next 5 years). I did complete and test my track wiring (bus, track connections, switch connections, etc) and ran trains before starting any scenery (only had painted the pink foam). Of course one thing led to another, and 2 walls was not enough, and eventually all 4 walls and the middle were occupied by benchwork and track. Shelving and led lighting installed above the layout. Skirting below to hide storage, etc. It’s an old building and I try to keep it as clean as possible, but dusting and vacuuming is a weekly chore. But it beats sitting on the couch getting older faster.

[Canalligator]

I built my road in sections, so that it could be moved (though that move would certainly require some pain and suffering). So I built each section’s benchwork, road bed, track work and electronics. With all sections assembled, I could then experiment and tweak the plan for good operations – which is my interest and goal.

At this point, I began operating which led to two track work changes. I also added stand-ins for the structures associated with operation, and painted the track.

With the railroad operational, I’ve begun scenery work. I am doing this work in this order: basic landforms (foam layups, plaster cloth and rock outcroppings), then foundations and roadways, then final land shape (ground goop).

I think different situations and railroads might require doing things in a different order. This is the order that works for me.