Ouch no room for Brass (edit) 4-6-4

I picked up one more elesco feedwater heater parts

and now that I look at my 4-6-4 I dont see room for it

take a look and see what I’m talking about

Ken

I see neither a 2-6-2 nor a 2-8-2 in your photos so I don’t know what you’re talking about. Could you clarify your statement or question?

Don Z.

what do you see?

A 4-6-4. Or 2C2…

ok you got me there, I must be half a sleep

good eye don

but back to the problem

what do I do relocate the bell?

You already have a feedwater system on the locomotive…why would you want to add another?

David B

I do?

man I guess I’m not having very good luck with this locomotive.

K-

You’ve got a Santa Fe 4-6-4 w/ a worthington FW heater part of which is mounted ahead of the smokebox (on the prototype extending down into the smoke box) and the other part (hot water pump) is mounted on the pilot deck (left side) under the smokebox.

Budliner, is that key in photo 1 ro wind it up?

hi bruce

no thats for a clock here on the desk

K

Santa Fe 3460 class 4-6-4’s used Worthington FWH’s. However, the earlier 3450 class used Elesco’s. The only kicker there is that Santa Fe generally mounted the Elesco heaters on the pilot deck where they were easier to wash out (Santa Fe ran through some bad water territory).

Andre

Well, their is already a Worthington installed in the smokebox…right?

some info I found

Worthingtons were a combined waterpump/heater. As you view one as hung on a locomotive, the heater is on the left while the pump is on the right.
At the top of the pump is the steam cylinder, which gets live steam from the boiler. The rod from it extends down through both the coldwater pump AND the hot water pump & drives them both.
The coldwater pump takes suction from the tender & delivers the water into a spray chamber where it picks up heat from the exhaust steam plus additional volume as the exhaust steam condenses.
This then goes to the hotwater pump where it is pumped through the boiler check into the boiler.
There were 5 or six sizes of these to accomodate boilers of different evaporative rates.
This type of device was sometimes referred to as a D.C. Heater or direct contact heater as opposed to the other type that used heat transfer via a heat exchanger (bundle encased in a shell).
To attempt to get rid of the entrained cylinder oil in the exhaust steam, a knock-out pot was plumbed into the steamline just before the heater casing. They had 5 sizes of both B & BL models:
1 2,400 gph
2 3,900 gph
3 5,400 gph
4 7,200 gph
4 1/2 10,000 gph

Actually, the side mounted ones could be Type B, B-2, BL, or BL-2. They also came in different sizes. Modelers and historians seem to have a greater than fifty percent chance of misidentifying the model. Is anyone interested in info on identifying the model?

the S and SA were later designs with improved features. The big thing with the side mounted ones are that the hot water pump, cold water pump, and heater are all combined in one unit with the weight all being on one side. With the S and SA, the components are separate, so you could distribute the weight better and also locate the components with efficiency in mind. I’d like to know the last new application of a B/BL-2 series type, but I would think that replacement parts were available until the

Maybe that’s why you only got 1 in the package?

no this was a second set and it did have all the parts (reciprocating pump)

but it looks like I have no use for both of them

[soapbox] [censored] [sigh]

Budliner,

Last new application of the “sidearm” Worthington feedwater heater was almost certainly the Y-6a. The Y-6b had the smokebox mounted Worthington SA heater.

The JNR used cylindrical Elesco-type feedwater heaters, with humongous single-cylinder pumps on the right side to force water through them. Many were installed in odd places, including crosswise behind the stack (C52 class Pacifics, added after original construction) and lengthwise behind the stack under a skyline casing (first series of D52 class Mikados.) The most popular place was crosswise above the pilot beam, with or without a cover. Crosswise in front of the stack was the location of choice for later 2-8-2/2-8-4 classes, as well as the C58 class 2-6-2s.

Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

Here courtesy of the good folks at Detail Associates and this website

http://preco2.buscape.com.br/ferreomodelismo-pg6.html

is a photo of the external portion of a Worthington feedwater heater. It looks very much like what is on your brass locomotive.

For those with an interest in steam locomotive appliances I recommend getting the classic Kalmbach book by Linn Westcott, as well as some vintage editions of the Locomotive Cyclopedia published by Simmons Boardman. Those are pricey collectibles (even reprints are) but the Trainshed Cyclpedia reprints of excerpts are commonly seen at swap meets.

| Details Associates N Scale Feedwater Heaters Recessed Worthington ( 2 per pack ) | Details Associates N Scale Feedwater Heaters Recessed Worthington ( 2 per pack ) |
| - | - |

Dave Nelson

ac:

I wonder if bad water also caused the switch from Elesco to Worthington heaters. I vaguely recall reading somewhere that the Worthington tended to collect fewer minerals than the Elesco. Anybody got specific information on this?

now there is a detail part on top of this locomotive, the book of brass identifies this as a mistake, but also states that the CO. mb kline (I think) made the loco. now my question !

do I install the small pipe and correct the locomotive? there are suppose to be two of them.

or do I leave that off for future reference? I know its my locomotive and just do what you want but I like to look before I leap so to speak. I know the brass afishionados cruse the net and I hope they jump in with some advice.

you know im going to fix that solder job from M B

K

I think there should be a second pipe. I have seen many photos of the prototype class, and none had only one of these pipes. So you will be 100% correct by doing this. BTW I would redo the soldering of the pipe already in place because there are excessive amounts of solder, as well as on the turret box ground. When painted this looks not very good because there are large roundings where crisp edges should be. That’s why I would rework such things.