I’ll be updating my thread somewhere else around here, but here’s what I know about lighting from my theatrical background and layout lighting attempts.
Fluorescent lighting is soft, not crisp, when it comes to shadows. If your goal is to emulate an overcast day, this will do the job well. You can’t dim such lighting unless you install special ballasts, and even then it isn’t as smooth as the dimming you have with incandescent lighting.
Track lighting, whether line- or low-voltage, is nice in that you have a wider set of choices. You can use fixtures that let you pivot and tilt the light source, so you can put the light where you want it. You can use a lamp appropriate for the effect: halogen for a sunlight effect, or a compact fluorescent for overcast. Placing the track is pretty straightforward, even on a finished ceiling. And incandescent fixtures are dimmable.
In theatre, you aren’t lighting for realism, but for effect…much like in model railroading, we generally don’t do mountains and terrain between stops on the line to actual scale. You are trying for something representational, or impressionistic, not realistic.
In theatrical lighting, you generally try to light from at least two different directions, usually about 45 degrees up from horizontal and 45 degress to left and right of the subject. This eliminates shadows for the audience, so they can always see the subject. But you can gel or color your lighting to have a certain effect. For example, your ‘sunlight’ may be a warm light coming from the subject’s left, while you may have a diffuse, cooler light (think of a shadowed area on a sunny day) as a ‘fill’ light on the subject’s right. The fill light is usually overwhelmed by the sunlight, but in the sun’s shadow, you get the fill.
What I’ve installed – though I’m still programming it – is four sets of lighting tracks: east lighting, west lighting, full daylight, and blue ‘night’ lighting. The blues are at the back wall, pointing towar