I have just started my HO layout using Code 83 track and have come up with a problem using Peco and ME turnouts. The sprung points on these turnouts are stronger than the Tortoise machine and the wire throw just bends. I see the Tortoise machines used by many modelers, but would like some advice on what to do to overcome these turnouts. I considered removing the over center springs but would rather leave them intact unless that is the only way to fix the problem. Would a heavier wire help? I have never used Tortoise machines before (too expensive) but wanted to give one a try.
the spring is adjustable just push the plastic block away from the frog as well as a heavier wire, will solve the problem
The usual method of dealing with the spring is simply to remove it. Bend up the small metal tabs (4 of them) holding in the spring, lift the plastic block up, and remove the tiny spring. You can put the block back without the spring, or leave it poff and get rid of the tabs. Most folks seem to substitute heavier wire for the light wire that comes with the machine. Try 0.030" music wire.
If you don’t remove the spring in the turnout and rely on a heavier/stronger wire, more force is required to move the switch as I’ve seen done at a club layout. My recommendation, however, is to remove the spring to extend the life of the switch and possibly the switch machine.
Mark
Hi from Belgium,
Before I use Fastrack turnouts, all the turnouts on my railroad where Nscale code 55 Peco turnouts.
I powered mine with switchmaster motor.
You need in Nscale or in Hoscale remove the sprung which lok the point because it offer to much resistance to move the points for Tortoise or Switchmaster motors.
In Nscale I drill a small hole in the middle of the throwbar for the fulcrum and cutoff the two big plastic pin on the outside of the throwbar; I also cut away some of the plastic tab around the outside of the of the throwbar where the Peco electromagnatic motor are put for better appaerance. If you do that it’s better to cut these tab when the turnout is fixed on the roabed because it lose some strenght.
Marc
I have stepped away from using switch-machines alltogether. Now I use RC-servos and a ESU decoder that controls 4 servos. It is a cheaper and easier way to control your turnouts. Servos: $4 each and the ESU Switchpilot/servo: $35. That equals to under $13 for each turnout with digital (as well as analog) control. The cool thing is that the actuation time is adjustable to make it more real. And i guarantee you that they won´t have any problems overpowering the springs in Peco turnouts.
I had the same experience. The tortoises are not strong enough to overcome the spring tension. I just removed the springs and let the tortoises keep the points pressed against the stock rails.
thanks for all your help. I guess my best option is to remove the springs. I don’t have that many Peco or ME turnouts, I have been going to the Shinohara/Walthers new DCC friendly ones. I am really amazed at the quick response and quality of info you guys have given me. Hope I can return the favor sometime.
Bob
Hello Bob,
While I think it’s a good to remove the springs on Peco turnouts if you want to power them, I routinely use heavier wire on my Tortoise motors and that may do the trick for you. The wire that comes with the Tortoises is about .032"; I use .047" steel music wire, which is availalble at hobby shops and hardware stores that carry the K&S metal products line. You have to drill out the switch rod (“throw bar”) on the turnout and the fulcrum and actuator on the Tortoise with a no. 55 bit to accomodate the larger wire. Give it a try.
Good luck with your layout,
Andy
What kind of servos are you using? I started to look into this and like this idea. What about contacts to route power to frog and signals? This is something that I found is needed with the DCC wiring of turnouts.
thanks,
bob