Last year I bought 2 P1K F-3 AB sets at what I considered a very good price. Even though they don’t have sound or the detail of higher end locos, I really like them except for one aspect. They do not couple closely. I considered getting KD short shank couplers but on closer inspection I saw there was not a lot of shank beyond the coupler pocket with the couplers it came with. In comparing them to a higher end BLI F7 AB set, I discovered that the pivot point of the P1K F3 locos is almost directly below the end of the engine while on the BLI F7 the pivot point is set back about 1/8" from the end of the loco allowing for much closer coupling. I wonder if the shorter shank KD couplers would even fit the P1K coupler pocket. It appears to me my best option is to install drawbars between the A and B units as well as diaphrams to allow coupling as close as what I get with the BLI F7 set. Before I take that step, I wonder if anyone has found a coupler that will allow for close coupling of the P1K F-3 sets.
The Kadee web site says to use the #33 for close coupling.
I have used P1K drives as power under Highliners shells, and I accomplished close coupling by drilling a second hole in the coupler mounting pad about 3/16 or so in from the end of the frame-(yes, there is room). Then I tapped the holes 2-56 and then utilized Kadee #33 short shank couplers in the new locations. This works quite well. I’d still be using these drives, in fact, had I not acquired a pair of Intermountain drives to put under the shells in their place. I might use them as drives under B-units eventually. Hope this helps.
Kadee #33 works with P1K F3’s and get close to the 3’ distance required. (Stewart engines need the #450 conversion set)
Jon