P2K E6 close coupling conversion

Model Railroader General Discussion (Model Railroader)
1

As a few of you know, I purchased a Proto2000 E6 A/B w/dcc sound awhile
back. The only complant I had was the lack of close coupling… it just made
the loco look bad. So I ordered the Kadee #455 conversion kit. It took a
little time, patience, drilling and tapping, but I like the results. Well worth the
time. Dave

Before conversion (click for larger veiw)

After conversion:

And here’s what it took (although I only had to use one of the tap sizes)

2

What KD Coupler # and what’s your radius?

3

The kit comes with Kadee #33’s.
I have 30" radius mainline curves. Dave

4

With the close coupling, will it run on 22" radius? I just bought the E6A+B in Atlantic Coast Line purple myself (no DCC). I just don’t have the room to run larger than 22" on my layout.

One problem that I’m having though is that for some reason, my B unit couplers sit slightly higher than my A unit and my freight cars. What’s the easiest way to fix that? Is it possible to shim down the couplers on the B unit?

5

I’m not into shims but you can review the merits of KD overset shank that lowers the coupler head.
http://www.kadee.com/htmbord/page67.htm

6

I have an Athern PA1/PB1 and have the same problem, no close coupling. The couplers on this set is truck mounted. I did add working diaphargms, and kadee #27 short shank. Currently I run 22" radius track, and still there is about 1/8 between the diaphragms on the straight runs . Are there any Kadees out there that are a little shorter?

Thanks!

7

Thanks Dave for posting your photos of your E-6 A/B Kadee #455 coupler conversion. I’m pleased you had the patience and bravado to follow through with the conversion, good job!
When properly installed and you use the diaphragm plates this #455 conversion will allow the locos to negotiate 18" radius “S” curves.
To rrgrassi: This link to our web site http://www.kadee.com/conv/pdf/ath4.pdf will show you a couple of conversion ideas for your Athearn PA1/PB1. The #38 is for close coupling. But if you do not wi***o alter the mounting you might try the shorter #24 or #44 coupler in place of the #27.

Sam Clarke
Kadee Quality Products

8

SROC99

Thanks for the info! I’ll give it a shot! I love the strength of the Kadee. Does Kadee make a McHenry replacement for Rivarossi 3 axle and 4 axle passenger cars?

Thanks!

9

TO: rrgrassi,

We make our #505 and #508 for AHM, IHC, Rivarossi, and most Con-Cor passenger cars.
Use the #505 on 6 wheel trucks and the longer #508 on 4 wheel trucks.
We experimented with “snap in” couplers for this type of mount many years ago and found them far too inconsistent for our standards. You will have a bit of trimming and fitting for the #505 and #508s but you’ll find they are a solid mount and have a bit of adjustment for close coupling.

Sam Clarke
Kadee Quality Products

10

Sam,
Thank you, for providing quality products. I have tried other couplers (I won’t mention names)
and I honestly can say, IMO, that Kadee is the best on the market. Keep up the good work. Dave

11

I agree, for me is either Kadee or nothing. Sometimes they can be a pain to install, but they are well worth the effort, and after they are installed, you just do not have the uncoupling problems that are presented with other knuckle couplers. I do not know why manufactures insist on using the other couplers as OEM.

Thanks to Sam and all the Kadee people that keep 'em hooked up!