I have had nothing but problems with shinohara curved turnouts. Most of my locomotives (either 4 or 6 axle) will transverse the 18" but derail on the 24" (go figure) i’ve tweeked them until they eventually fell apart. They did work when i put shims of cardstock under them in various spots between the ties and the roadbed but eventually the derailments came back. I’ve already pulled up three of them and replaced them with #6 turnouts after redoing a lot of roadbed work and have 2 left that suprisingly, haven’t given me any problems. If i ever build another layout someday, there will be no more curved turnouts.
Another thing, I’ve found that the shinohara turnouts will not work anymore if the copper clip at the point rail ever breaks. Once it breaks or looses contact with the stock rail, the entire turnout looses continuity.
The only thing i could suggest is that you do the NMRA gauge thingy to the wheels on the locomotive and try to shim the turnout…chuck
I did an experiment a couple of years ago and discovered the radii marked on the Walthers Shinohara turnouts are wrong. The outer radius is very close to being what is marked, but the inner radius in all cases was considerably tighter than marked. If my memory is correct, the inside radius on your turnout is closer to a 16.5" radius instead of 18".
Terry, I sure don’t like the sound of that. I just purchased a couple of #6’s and #8’s for my layout. I have them layed out but not powered so I haven’t tested them yet. Looks like that needs to be my next step before I start on anything else.
Does your steamers go through them ok? What about the T-1?