Is there a database or spreadsheet online somewhere that has all the normal RR colors by roadname and the hobby paint manufacturers that makes them? I am specifically looking for Cotton Belt Red Oxide? the color of the Athearn #5562 Impack Spine Cars sets I have. The instructions do not list the color it is molded in either, but it would be nice to see Athearn list all the colors involved, and any matches with existing paint from various manufacturers. Am I asking too much ?
Most manufacturers use custom mixed paint - and these days it probably contains lead!![:D] Just think of how many bottles of Floquil it would take to paint a thousand box cars![:D] First, most of the cars are now made in China, and second, the colors used on models are “approximate” as the real colors change within a month after the railcar hits the rails - dirt, fadeing, etc.
If a real car gets scratched or banged up, the paint the RR would use probably wouldn’t match anyway - so if you have to touch up the model, it would be prototype “weathering”.
Sorry for the sarcasm - I just can’t help myself sometimes [:I]
Probably…
You can download the Floquil and Polly Scale paint swatches from the Testors site, but matching them to factory color is going to be a crap shoot at best. Especially if it’s a molded plastic color. http://www.testors.com/brand_category.asp?brandNbr=2
Here is where you need to find something close - I would say that SP Scarlet from some manufacturer might be a good starting point - and either tint of shade it until you have the color you want.
WHITE TINTS - BLACK SHADES! Remember if you have something like an orange adding more red doesn’t make it more orange; it makes it more red. If you want to increase the intensity of a color you add black; if you want to decrease the intensity of a color you add white One halting drop at a time!
Red Oxide, or Red Lead, was widely used on steel construction (such as bridges) to protect from rust. I doubt any RR had ‘rusty’ paint.
All model paints are approximate, and prototype colors actually variy with age.(Santa Fe’s midnightblue took on a semi- lavenderish cast as it aged**.** Also, the same paint reflects blue sky when viewed outdoors, and orange-red indoors (tungstun lightbulbs); so approximation is the key.
Floquil’s RED OXIDE is their approximation, and if you see something you think is better, buy it. It will look different inside, unless you use 5600 Kelvin lights - and they’re expensive.
Thanks for that link. I’ve downloaded and saved the Polyscale and Floquil color swatches.
You’re right, getting exact matches are not going to be 100% on the mark but these charts are useful as references.
BTW, regarding light. When mixing color formulas for paint blends and overall jobs it’s better to avoid doing it under bright flourescent lighting as certain colors (especially in the red family) become much less visible to the human eye. Found out the hard way!
MOST Florescents give off a a ‘greenish’ white light. You’re better of under a ‘Halogen’ bulbs.
‘Matching’ someone’s paint is diffiicult - if not impossible - at best.
Model makers buy whatever is cheapest, and Athearn’s products are painted in China - leaded or not. Paints contained lead at one time, (until they found some babies chewing on their cribs).
You’ll probably end up re-painting the whole thing.
The greenish hue from flourescent lights can be seen in film photos where a flash wasn’t used. The exception would be the newer “Daylight Corrected” bulbs, though they can be expensive.
When mixing paint at home I’m usually either in my patio or garage to take advantage of the natural sunlight. If forced indoors, I have access to a halogen light.
As mentioned, matching paint is a challenge which is why the blending technique is often the best resort next to a complete repaint. With practice on scrap material, imho,most newbies will find that blending with an airbrush or rattle can is not difficult.