Today, I received an Atlas Undecorated RS-1 that I intend to paint and decal.
Several questions about this process.
Should I wash the shell with soap and water?
Do I need to prime the locomotive as it is painted gray already?
As I don’t have a sprayer, I plan to use a spray (rattle) can of paint. Any issues with this approach?
I will be using C&NW Green. Any recommendation as to the best brand of spray paint?
I would appreciate any comments or suggestions.
Rich
Always. There is no downside to cleanliness. They use some sort of mold release on the shell, and people, of uncertian hygiene, handle it and the oil on your fingers and theirs is bad for paint adherence
My understanding is that acrylic paint doesn’t stick as well as solvent based paint, so I would. But then acrylic paint may not meet the criteria of coming in a spray can.
Anything Dr Wayne says supercedes my comments.
But back to paint, solvent paint and all the usual thinners aren’t good for you so I try to use only acrylic, but it’s hard to find all the colors I want.
As you probably already know, most rattle can paint comes out fast and heavy.
These days the only paint that calls itself C&NW green that comes in a spray can is Scalecoat 1 https://www.minutemanscalemodels.com/product-p/10366.htm
Edit or a Scalecoat 2 https://www.minutemanscalemodels.com/product-p/20366.htm
These websites are just the first that popped up on a google search. You may be able to do better on price elsewhere
Rich,
To answer your questions:
Other things that come to mind:
Henry, thanks for that info and for the links. Most appreciated.
I hope to avoid priming the locomotive but let’s see what the Doc Wayne has to say.
Thanks again.
Rich
Thanks, Tom, for that advice. I have read somewhere that placing a spray paint can in warm water for about 5 minutes will help to provide a smooth application.
Rich
Not sure who specifically makes CNW Green since I use generic colors from Krylon. My experience with model paints in rattle cans is that they come out a bit runnier, so when they suggest multiple THIN coats, that’s a good advice to follow.
Also, remove the cab from the body as well as the sill and paint them separately. Don’t paint the shell whole. The Atlas classic is a multiple part shell, so it makes it nice for painting.
One thing about painting with rattle cans is that you can miss the creases and crevasses where surfaces meet. You may never truely reach it with a rattle can and if you try to keep hitting it with paint you’ll probably just build up the paint thick all around it while still missing the target, if you follow that. Stairs can be a tricky place since there are multiple surfaces and angles that come together
Rattle can model paint comes out glossy. I think all rattle can paint sticks well, but glossy paint might need a primer to be safe.
The link that Henry provided indicates that Scalecoat II is a solvent based enamel paint for plastics.
Does this mean that I should apply a primer coat first?
Rich
Doughless, thanks for that advice. I appreciate it.
Rich
Maybe I misunderstood what I was told by Dr Holtgrewe. You don’t have to paint it tonight, wait for Doc Wayne to opine.
I’m not sure there is a downside to using primer unless you put it on too heavy or have an incompatibility problem between different types of paint. In MRVP they alway prime.
Rich, I don’t know how much painting you’ve done, but you’ll need a tool to hold the shell parts while you paint them. I use a coat hanger bent in an x shape so the tips widen against the inside of the part and holds it while I squeeze the bottom half of the hanger. I hold the part out and rotate it in all directions and upside down to get maximum coverage from different angles. I paint from rattle cans outside, as long as its not freezing. And to state the obvious, I wear rubber gloves to protect from overspray.
YES! No amount of preparation and cleanliness is not well spent.
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This depends on the paint you will use. My general answer is yes.
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No. I have had many good results with spray cans. Just take more care to avoid runs because you cannot control the volume of the paint. Keep the can moving at all times.
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I prefer “Martin Senior” brand paints sold in NAPA auto parts stores. These have a metal spray tip and needle valve and atomize the paint pretty well.
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If you have a NAPA body parts shop in your area they can get you touch up spray paints in virtually any color you can imagine. CNW green is pretty close to what is commonly called “Kelly Green”, so it should not be too hard to get something close enough. When in doubt go lighter than prototype colors. They will look better under normal lighting and in worst case will just appear faded.
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-Kevin
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Hi Rich,
Scalecoat has a handy “Recommended Steps of Application” section at the beginning of their color chart. At the top of the Scalecoat II heading on the right side of page 2 it states that Scalecoat II is “designed for use on plastic without use of a primer”. I don’t know if that’s true for other manufacturer’s enamels like Testor or Tamiya but it seems to clearly imply that you do NOT need to prime the shell. Just make sure it’s oil-free and dry BEFORE you paint.
Tom
I have never sprayed a locomotive. I bought this one because it is near impossible to find an Atlas C&WI RS-1, the only HO scale C&WI Loco to be manifactured that I know of.
I have used spray paint on flat surfaces like HO scale sidewalks and roads, but that is it.
Rich
Thanks, Tom, that is very helpful.
Rich
There is one piece of spraying advice I have not seen in the preceeding - so maybe its an assumption and everyone knows it. If not…
When you spray an item, we tend to rightfully go from left to right to left, etc.
The trick is, start the spray before you hit the model, and end the spray after you have gone past the model. This will give you equal coverage over the entire length of the model.
Beginners often start the spray on the model, go to the other end and reverse and so on. This gives “double coats” to the ends of the model, and single coats to the middle.
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Fascinating.
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When I was being taught to use an airbrush I was told to use this technique, but was never explained why.
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I always assumed it was because the airbrush was more prone to splatter at the beginning of the spray and you wanted that away from the model.
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Now I know better. That makes sense.
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-Kevin
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mobilman44, thanks for that advice. Good info.
Rich
I’ve never had much success using spray cans for painting, so I won’t give any advice on that, other than to suggest a thorough shaking of the can - not 15 or 20 seconds or a minute, but maybe at least two full minutes. You don’t know how long that can’s been sitting in a warehouse or on the dealer’s shelf. Ensuring that the paint is thoroughly mixed is a step in your favour.
Definitely wash the model before painting, using warm (towards hot, but not hot) water and use a dish detergent that doesn’t include a hand softener or skin conditioner. Rinse thoroughly and let air dry, and only handle after that with either clean hands or while wearing gloves (nitrile gloves work well and withstand, to some degree, even solvents like lacquer thinner).
This is good advice, even if all of the parts will be the same colour. This makes it easier to get uniform coverage without over-applying paint to adjacent areas.
This is a situation where an airbrush can really outshine a spray can, as a simple reduction in air pressure can make those blind corners accessible to the paint, without excessive build-up to the surrounding areas.
I normally prime stuff before painting regardless of the type of paint, but that’s mainly b
Wayne, thanks for all of your thoughts and suggestions.
I have now moved from restrained enthusiasm to outright intimidation. [(-D]
I suppose that the best course of action is to buyer a sprayer and to set up a spray booth. But, for one loco shell?
The only reason that I bought the undecorated model is because the Chicago & Western Indiana (C&WI) locomotive is a rare bird in HO scale. To my knowledge, only Atlas made it, and it was only available in one limited run.
My other alternative is to find an experienced model railroader with the proper tools of the trade to spray paint the loco for me. The good news is that it only need be painted in CNW Green. That is the only color on the loco. It also has Dulux Gold striping, but I can do that myself with decals.
Rich
Rich, buy an airbrush, they are not that expensive and equally as useful for structures, etc.
Follow Wayne’s advice, mine is exactly the same, I always use Scalecoat, it is the best thing out there.
I would never paint rolling stock with a rattle can, or acrylics, but that’s just me, I’m old fashioned and taught by Dr. Logan Holtgrewe at the Severna Park Club.
You never know, you may become a kit builder…
Sheldon