Ok here are some more!
Tomkat,
Many thanks to you for posting these ad and business signs! I’m going to be modeling a 1960s theme and now see that so many of these signs will complement the scenery quite well.
I’ve never used the computer printer decal paper before.[%-)] Is there a particular brand that is recommendable? My printer is an HP Deskjet 841C, although I do have access to a laser printer.
You really did a good job on the Merchant’s Row buildings. I have been using acrylics and airbrush on my structures.What paint did you use it really looks great? Doc
Thanks for these signs. The Sinclair sign really brings back memories.
Thanks Doc,
I used Polly Scale acrylics for everything except the Soaking Pit facade (with the large blocks) - for that one I used “suede”-textured Latex paint. I hand-brushed everything on, since the bricks obscure any brush streaks that might have been visible on large smooth surfaces.
On larger flat surfaces like the cream-colored trim on the “for-sale-or-lease” storefront, I positioned the painted surface perfectly horizontal (i.e. level) and carefully dripped the paint onto it, until the entire surface was covered. I made absolutely sure not to disturb the structure while the paint was drying. Sometimes on recessed spaces, the paint would accumulate in the corners - whenever it did that, I waited for it to dry completely, then re-dripped just enough paint on to cover the thinly-coated area in the middle.
I needed a couple of low relief buildings for Exchange St, a street near the backdrop, so I am working on a Merchants Row 1 kitbash. From a row of buildings 5" deep, I have made 2 buildings. The one nearest the backdrop is 1/2" deep and is made from the building row fronts. The other is 2" deep and is made from the building backs; it will have a sheet of plain styrene for the street side since it will not be visible.
I have completed them enough for a test fit:
This is an end view:
I still need to add some detail to the roof to represent the false fronts on the backside building; then on to paint, paint, paint. I have them set up to add lighting in the future.
why do you need the white?
Hi Everyone:
Very useful thread. You had asked for some photos - here are 2 of mine that were completed some time ago. I have since added the shop signs on the outside and some more wall and window decals.
I have since bought the Merchants Row 3 and assembled it with a minor kit bash. The orientaion was not how I wanted it in order to fit into the target location. I turned it from a left hand to a right hand orientaion. To do this I had to adjust the corner tabs for glueing the walls and had to cut a piece off of the roof and install in 2 sections. The wall and roof trim also had to be cut appropriately. The model is finished now and looks great. This particular model has separate windows so they can be painted before assembly. My technique for adding mortar is to wipe with drywall mud at a cream consistency and wipe clean after a minute or two. Then clean up around the windows etc with a tooothpick. Seal with dullcoat.
Alan
Outstanding piece of modeling. It says something about someone’s ability as a modeler when they can make a simple kit like Merchants row look that good. I have to dig mind out and try it again I don’t have the steady hands like I used to so painting mantels and sill ain’t the easiest thing for me these days but again a fine fine job
The black is to prevent any inside light from shining thru the plastic walls (real brick is opaque). Then you cover it with white [or any other light color] to brighten the interior and make the details [furniture etc.] more visible. I skipped the white on mine because I didn’t detail my interiors.
Great information. Currently working on Merchant’s Row III.
I have used the City Classics Window Dressing and they look
very nice. Venetian blinds add a touch of old school looks to
your buildings.