Now that I’m fairly confident in my airbrushing skills, and got the paint I need, Im beginning the tedius task of painting some brass locos. I’ve tried to preplan all my steps and have encountered an issue.
When painting the wheels, frame, and driving rods, I assume you disassemble the whole thing and paint each item individually right? (As opposed to painting the chassis with everything still assembled)
For my PRR scheme, the boiler will be three colors, red for the cab roof, DGLE for the body and graphite for the boiler. Do I paint the silver and red first, then mask and paint the DGLE, or the opposite?
If I use a paint with a flat finish, is a dullcote layer still necessary? (I got a ton of black model master left, was thinking of using it for the drive train)
Disassembly is highly recommended as is a thorough cleaning of all parts. Some custom painters and many amateurs paint the whole mechanism as one unit but I personally don’t think it’s a good idea if you want a good paint job.
Painting SB/FB, cab roof and all may depend on the model. Sometimes it’s easier to paint those parts first then mask them off and shoot the boiler. Sometimes the opposite holds true.
I generally prime, shoot the SB/FB, mask, then the cab roof, mask, and the main boiler color. All this depends on the model and amount of details on some of the parts. A dullcoat over the colors isn’t needed.
A gloss coat is really only necessary on areas where decals will be applied or the final coat over everything.
My final coat is usually a semi flat to help hide decal film and provide an even look to the job.
Good luck with the engine and let us see the results.
I at least remove the motor and gearbox, and might go further if necessary. Otherwise, the whole shebang goes into the sink with some soap and hot water. Depending on what needs to be painted, I’ll use various brushes and/or my airbrush.
It’s difficult to paint valve gear if it’s been removed and even more difficult if it’s disassembled, as it usually needs to be rivetted back together.
I get the DGLE for the cab and the boiler and the oxide red (not just ordinary red, like a caboose) for the cab roof, but definitely not graphite on the boiler.
If you wish to use graphite (the real ones often used a mixture of graphite and oil) but it was used mainly on the smokebox and firebox, both of which were usually not lagged (insulated). This was supposedly less susceptible to the high heat those areas experienced, than was ordinary paint.
My preference for painting locomotives is to paint them as new or almost new, then weather them to the degree I want them to look for a specific time period.
I built and painted this Bowser A-5 loco for a good friend who models the Pennsy (the loco kit was donated by another good friend)…
Actually the color for the cab roof should be 50/50 oxide red and black as the Penney did three coats on the cab roof starting with 100% oxide and finishing with the 50/50 mixture. Also the coal space and tender deck should be oxide red.
Drivers, pilot and trailing truck should also be DGLE.
I use Scalecoat Graphite and Oil for the smokebox and firebox.
Sorry, yea I shoulda clarified, Im using 50/50 FFC and black for the cab roof and FCC for the tender deck, and yes Im using graphite and oil for the SB/FB, possibly will mix it with black to darken it.
I dont mind disassembling all the valve gear, I had to do it while stripping the paint anyways, so I can always do it again.
Can you recommend a good semi gloss/satin finish? I currently only have dullcote and glosscote. Will mixing the two work?
Also, correct me if Im wrong but I believe PRR DID paint the underframe/drivers black, not DGLE. The DGLE was only on the boiler, cab, tender and and cylinders.
Yeah, you can create a semi-gloss of infinite degrees by mixing various amounts of Dullcote and Glosscote. For airbrushing either, and the various combinations of both, I mix it roughly 50/50 with lacquer thinner.