My track work is getting close to being done. Well at least I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. [:P] I am just starting to look at some buildings. I just bought a building from DSL shops that will be my first attempt at putting together a kit and painting it. I was wondering what some of you like in the way of paint? I would like to use something that will clean up with water rather than oil if possible. Where is a good source for model paint? I could go to a craft store like Michaels. Is there a model railroad source for paints?
Well, you’ve picked the hardest building out there to paint, in my opinion. The DSL buildings are beautiful when done, though. There are instructions that come with the kit, and they must be followed to the letter! You MUST clean the casting in mineral spirits. When you think they are clean enough, clean them again. When that is done, clean it one more time. No joke. I used Krylon primer on mine, and let it dry for a week. After that, any paint will work. I’d look into Floquil or Model Masters paint. I don’t think you will be happy with Michaels craft paints. They’re to thick, although do work well for mortar joints.
On a side note, the walls on your kit will be warped. Follow the instructions on how to fix that. Keep a light on in the oven, and watch it closely. Very frustrating kits to build, but with some time and patience they are outstanding models.
Civil War: Sounds like great fun! DSL shops make some great buildings! Which did you select?
Floquil does have railroad paints. Use your judgement on some of the colors…these are $5 a pop.
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Take your time in the construction and painting.
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How do you want it to look? Like the Lionel/MTH ready to go one color paint, or reralistic, and weathered?
Check out: http://token3rail.blogspot.com/2008_08_01_archive.html Scroll down a bit and there’s an excelent tutorial on detailing brickwork using spackling to fill mortar joints.
I’d recommend cleaning as recommended, I’ve heard of issues when this was skipped.
Paint the entire model with a base of enamel paint. Inexpensive is fine as long as it’s enamel. It does not react with alcohol. Floquil, and acrylics will react with alcohol, if you use a denatured alcohol/ india ink (2-tablespoon alcohol to 3-drops ink) wash to dirty things up. Testors Dulcoat will also react with alcohol.
Also, I sent a e-mail on additional information.
Good Luck, and please post your progress!
Kurt
Thanks for the tips. I will take my time and do it right. I picked the Oldsmobile Dealer because it is a building right out of my old home town of Lockport, Illinois. As soon as I saw the building on his web site I recognized it and wanted to add it to my layout. I am only using the front. I will build my own side and rear walls and a roof. I’ll post a picture of it as I progress. It is going to take me a while though. I definetaly want a realistic look.
At about a buck per can, Wal-Mart makes an excellent primer called “Equipment Grey” which is in a blue can under the brand name “Color Place”
For finished surface colors, I use Floquill in a spray can.
Be sure to do the mortar lines, it will grealt enhance the realism of your buidling.
Terry … yep … take your time … it’s well worth it . At our ages … what’s the hurry - right ? Kpolak is our light under the bushel crafter … he knows what he’s talking about … [tup]
? for those of you that are spray painting your structures. My building requirements are quite small so I am pretty much sticking to the Korber Models. Very SOLID and one can add as much detail as one wants. Back to the question…If you are spray painting the structure how do you add the mortor lines afterwards? I am not the most artisticly talented but want the structures to look good.
Thanks!
Ken
Follow the instructions on this link Check out: http://token3rail.blogspot.com/2008_08_01_archive.html Scroll down a bit and there’s an excelent tutorial on detailing brickwork using spackling to fill mortar joints. This was posted earlier. I read it and it seems very helpful.
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I use drywall spackle.
First wash down the walls thoroughly to remove any traces of the release agent used in the molding process. Then prime your building. The wall mart primer I mentioned above works fine. Like in any other structure building venture, use light coats and build them up as opposed to one or two heavy coats.
Make sure it is thoroughly dry.
Once you have selected your finish coat, apply it, again in light coats, building your way up to even, full coverage. When using spackle, let the finished painted structure dry and set up for a couple of days.
I apply the spackle with a finger and use a moist compound. If it isn’t moist enough, add a few drops of waters.
Working in small sections, apply the spackle to the building. Don’t try and do an entire all at one time as it will be too hard to remove. You can work in a circular motion to get good coverage. Once you cover the selected are, use a damp cloth to start removing the excess. Wipe it off in one direction, top to bottom works best, as this is how weather runs. Keep wiping it down until you get the look you want. It will be evident as you do this. Spackle has a tendency to cloud a bit, which is why I recommend adding a bit of water – cuts down on the clouding. If you get clouding, keep wiping it down with a damp sponge, which will help minimize this, although some clouding makes it look more real.
After weathering:
Add some lights and detailing:
Add your landscaping and supporting items around the structure and you’ve got a scene:
Wow…Thanks! That is way cool. Something to be proud of! Nice job. Thanks again!