I got a 736 with a terrible paint job. Everything else is fine. I am planning on stripping and re-painting. What paint do I use?
Krylon semi gloss or flat your choice - Also Olsen Train Parts has some nice lionel color correct paints.
After I strip the parts down to bare metal, I wa***hem with liquid dish soap and warm water then dry them immediatly. I prime the parts with Krylon gray primer. Use several light coats, allowing the primer to dry between coats. The idea is to cover all bare metal so it doesn’t show through the primer. Once the final coat of primer is dry, you can start painting. I use Krylon semi flat black because it is a very close match to the paint Lionel used. Apply this in thin coats just as you did with the primer. Use as many thin coats as necessary to get good coverage. Allow the paint to dry between coats. Paint until no primer shows through. Throughout the project, keep coats thin, this takes more time, but it really shows in the end result. Let the paint dry for a day or so before you put the locomotive back together. Olsen’s Toy Train Parts sells rubber stamps and ink to reapply cab numbers. Let us know how it turns out.
Jim
Thanks for all the information. I really appreciate it. I am learning through people like you. Thanks.
I learned from experience when repainting Postwar Steamers to keep all coats thin. Best advise is to keep the spray can as far away from detailed parts as you can. As Jim stated patience is key to a quality paint job. - Just remember you can always strip it and paint it again!
Just for general information is there a paint that’s correct for lionel that you could use with a airbrush,Much better control using this method I should think!
Ragnar,
For airbrushing, you can choose solvent or acrylic (water) based paints made specifically for Toy and Model trains that are available in a wide range of railroad colors. These are what I’ve used with good results:
For acrylics
Pollyscale and Badger Modelflex, IMHO, work well on properly prepared surfaces. Engine Black offered by both brands, would be very close to what you’re looking for. Modelflex requires no thinning and is ready to spray right out of the bottle.
PollyScale recommends 10% to 15% thinning with “Polly S” airbru***hinner. Though I and most modelers I’ve spoken to thin it 20% to 25% and get a smooth finish.
Clear coats, if desired, are available for both brands in Flat, Satin, and Glossy finishes.
For solvent based paints
Floquil has been around for years. Floquil Engine Black #60106 produces a very nice flat finish. Thin with “Dio-sol” at 25%.
Another brand, Scale Coat II also can produce very good results.
Thinning is with ScaleCoat II Paint Thinner at 30% (or higher if desired).
Clears/Glazes are also available for both brands.
As always; BE SAFE and protect yourself when painting. Respirator and good ventilation are a must.
Hope this helps.
High Greens [:D]
I’ve had a lot of luck using Tamiya Colors white primer (in the spray can). It goes on very fine with no buildup.
Also, one thing I learned the hard way - do your painting where it is cool, never out in the hot sun. In the heat, the paint will go on gritty and rough.