Painting: How I do things, Right or Wrong

This is how I do things. This is not how you should do things. I don’t aspire to a particular method, but rather this is a result of decades of painting. Ive made many mistakes over the years, and I have learned from them. I welcome any comment, question or roasting you wish to add!

Victims…2 Proto GP units that will become CP Rail 8484 and 8409.

Details added and units hit with Tamiya Primer Gray spray bomb. Light coats are essential. Only enough paint to unify the colors was used.

Areas to be Black were shot with an airbrush. I use Tamiya Flat Black Acrylic paint thinned with 70% IPA. Multimark “mouth” masked off.

Remaining areas masked off with Tamiya masking tape.

3 coats of Tamiya White Primer applied in very thin coats.

Multimark “globe” will be masked off. A template was made from referencing Microscale Multimark decals. I glued it to a piece of 40 thou styrene and cut it out carefully.

[img]http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/davi

Can’t argue with those results. Looks great so far.

Your spelling is off though;

Tamiys Aluminiumimiminiunim

It’s Tamiya’s [8D] Dan

Looks far superior to anything I could ever manage to do, good stuff! I’m enjoying your threads!

Im glad I got Aluminiumimiminiunim right!

Its decal time! should be, it’s decal time! [8o|]

Rich

5" stripes…on the cab as well. Not my first rodeo!

David,

Great job on the paint…I’ll also agree with You on the Tamiya products…been using their bottle paint for year’s. I have had great sucess, using DNA for thinning. Also have been able to mix My own so-called Railroad colors with Tamiya paint…never used their rattle can paint though…I guess I’m a air brush die-hard.

Take Care! [:D]

Frank

I know you Canucks love your beer, but thinning paint with an IPA? Even us (words not appropriate for this forum)-swilling yanks know that a lager is the preferred paint thinner. [(-D]

–Randy

(yes I know…)

Take off…eh! :smiling_face:

And, as the end of the thread, the 2 shells now painted.

The chassis are left. However, that will be another thread directed towards the installation of DCC and keepalive into a proto unit.

Hope you enjoyed this little thread.

David B

Ah, to the Canadians spell it the British way? I guess they would being the colony that didn’t rebel. =P My wife, a Brit made sure to tell me how Aluminum is properly spelled and pronounced! They add the i near the end of the word. Kai Ryssdal on NPR’s Market Report got edumacated when discussing the commodity on air - of course the guest was of English origins!

Thaught wuzz mighe Poynt!

I have to admit I have been very reluctant to try acrylic paints, having used Floquil solvent based so many years. It looks like I’ll eventually have to take the plunge. Seeing info like this helps to know where to start. Dan

good stuff Dave , question on number boards ,did you paint and decal (unlit ) rather than use the factory combo #board/ headlight set up ? Im guessing you cut that combo unit and chucked the headlight for your fiber optic stuff ?

as always great job ! Jerr

I’m not a fan of lit number boards. I either use the stock light pipes for filler (numberboards) or stuff it with styrene if it’s missing. The headlights will be Fiberoptics.

Oh…I use number board decals with microscale for the numbers.

Per Wheeler Dealers…Al-a-min-E-Uum-

you British types just crack me up

Yes, and Edd China likes to soul-der things!

Grab iron work. They are on their respective chassis, however, as with all Proto GPs they need major work to elevate them to my standards or running.

David,

Your standards are high indeed and your skills are up to them. Very nice job. [Y]

David, not sure we all know what you do for a living, but you have stated on more than one occasion that you have installed hundreds, if not thousands, of decoders. So, you must have some affiliation with the retail side of the hobby. Do you also paint locos as part of your work, or do you only do this for yourself?

Rich