I recently purchased several old AHM Minikits buildings which I will be bashing and/or modifying. Two questions regarding acrylic paint for these models.
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Does the type of plastic used in these older kits require (or benefit from) any kind of pre-cleaning prior to painting?
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In order to save some money (and for a broader range of available colors), I would like to use the acrylic paints found in craft stores such as Michaels or Hobby Lobby, when they are on sale. Would appreciate any input if there are any particular brands of craft paint which would be best to use, or conversely, if there are any brands I should stay away from.
Thanks!
From my experience, any model you paint, rolling stock or buildings, should be washed first, to remove finger prints, etc., and other things that don’t show up until you start to paint. I’ve had great luck using warm water, and a tiny bit of dish soap, on a tooth brush, and giving the model a gentle but thorough scrubbing, and rinse.
I’ve also had great results with the craft type acrylic paints. No particular brand. If your going to use an air brush, thin the paint with distilled water, to the consistency of 2% milk. The distilled water is generally free from minerals that are in tap water, from building up in the air brush. Use lots of thin layers, as paint will run easily.
You can also get great results with the good old spray can. Warming the can and paint, in some warm water, seams to make the paint flow nicer, and adds to the pressure.
Things I have learned through the years. Good luck ! have fun!
Mike.
Hi, Mike
Thanks for your advice! I won’t be doing any air-brushing at this point, but that made me think of another question. Would I do better by applying a couple of slightly diluted coats of paint instead of one full-strength coat?
Related question:
my object is to make my buildings have an overall look of being slightly aged, but not decrepit. I don’t want to mount a major production, but is there something fairly simple I can do to accomplish this? I keep seeing occasional references to the old technique of a diluted coat of water-based India ink, for example, which I gather would also help make nuances in the casting stand out, adding to a realistic effect. Still a good method? Any other ideas?
Thanks for any help!
If your not airbrushing, than I guess the good old paint brush will work! Using thinned coats, and building up the color to your liking I think would be the best, I’m afraid if you don’t thin the acrylic crafts paints, it won’t flow good, and brush marks won’t even out. I guess you’ll have to experiment. Also don’t forget the option of spray cans. Many modelers swear by them, and I used them before I got hooked on my air brush.
The diluted ink still works great. Using a little bit of rubbing alcohol with the water helps it get into the tiniest of places. I’m not sure of the ratio, I just mix and try. It doesn’t take much ink to make it right. Ink also comes in different shades, like brown, etc. which also works. I’ve used an ink wash with a little brown in it to give a rust effect on freight cars. Remember the ink wash lightens up when it dries, so don’t panic if it looks to dark after you first apply it. Start out slow, until you get the effect you want.
Good luck !
Mike.
You’ll find plenty of advise on here about using chalks and dry brushing to get the weathered effect. If your a subscriber to the magazine, you have a wealth of info availiable to you in the various videos of Cody’s Office, and others, and tons of articles. Even if your not a full subscriber, there are many resources open to you. Check it all out and see what you can find.
First, airbrush or hand brush, the earlier poster’s comments about washing the surface are quite right. Plastic kits have mold release agent, plus the assembly process leaves residues of dust, finger prints, etc. So a quick wash with a bit of dish soap, rinse well and let it dry thoroughly.
Second, every loco, car or structure will benefit from a primer coat. This can be from a “rattle can” or brushed on. The primer should be applied lightly, you don’t want to cover details, etc. Your aim is to provide an even color and to provide “tooth” for subsequent paints to adhere to.
Yes, several light coats will always be superior to one heavy coat, whether it be by hand or by any spray medium.
There are a LOT of techniques to accentuate detail or to show use. Look through various magaizes, MR, Fine Scale Modeler, RMC, or through the various web sites. A light wash of thin paint or India Ink really helps accent shadows and combined with a technique called dry brushing will help make details “pop” out. Painting is a process you learn by doing. Fortunately many models can be fairly easily stripped and repainted. Enjoy and learn!
In addition to thorough washing (and drying!) of the model parts before painting, get in the habit of wearing gloves (NOT the powdered kind) once the plastic is cleaned to avoid introducing still more fingerprints and oils onto the surfaces. Some guys like latex gloves or neoprene. Others use the cotton gloves that you see at art museums and auction houses.
As for basic painting other than air brush, I happen to like the Tamiya brand of spray paints. When well shaken the coverage is very fine and even. It is not the cheapest brand but has a good variety;don’t forget to check the military models part of the LHS for that paint line because some shops split the paints up by hobby line rather than put them all together.
By the way when I say “when well shaken” I shake my rattle cans of spray paint NEVER less than a full minute and often two full minutes before use. I see too many guys give a can five little shakes and then complain when the paint comes out splotchy. And yes even though Tamiya is an expensive line I hold the can upside down to clean out the nozzle after each use. Better to waste 27 cents worth of paint than have to throw away a $5 can after just one use.
After painting comes weathering. Dullcoat or similar matte finish similarly applied is a good base for weathering chalks which I have come to regard as the best way to get a certain aged look particularly to plastic. Airbrushed weathering looks good in person but in model photos tends to show what it is – a random group of dots of paint here and there. This is particularly noted in photos of N scale equipment.
It can be frustrating because it needs further coats to fix it in place – and it seems to disappear! This is a multi stage process. And by the way well-sifted fireplace ash (from a wood fireplace, not a fireplace that uses those parafin filled false logs, or is used for food) can make a very effectiv
I’d look into Tamiya spray-can paint. Their paint nozzle creates a fine spray similar to an airbrush, much better than most “rattle can” spray paints. After washing the items, spray everything with their primer gray. Tamiya makes a number of correct military colors, so you should be able to find ones that are right for your kits.