I’m working on my first resin building kit. It seems more porous than plastic kits. I usually use Testor’s spray primer first on my buildings and then acrylics. Can I do the same with resin? Anything else that I have to watch out for?
Clean the parts with warm water and liquid detergent to make sure no mold release remains.
.From a Google search below. They use a different mold release apparently.
http://www.isp.ca/sylvan/modelling.htm#Painting
Rich
Rich,
Thanks for posting that excellent link! Anyone wanting to work with resin kits should read the info on the Sylvan website.
One additional tip I can offer. Before airbrushng a resin surface, TEST-PRACTICE on a scrap piece first if possible. Resin kit surfaces tend to be less porous than styrene, so orange peel and dry spots show up more easily. If you don’t have scrap resin available, then just test your spray pattern on smooth scrap plastic pieces (I often suggest compact disk cases, as most have very smooth surfaces).
Not a put down, but I’ve noticed on many photos of airbrushed models on several forums that some modelers wind up with rough or textured surfaces that might not be very noticeable from a distance. Resin surfaces tend to be less forgiving. By testing on a sample, you can determine if you need to thin your paint more, decrease/increase air pressure, or decrease/increase airbrush distance from the surface. I
Thanks for the replies. The link was very helpful. In this case, I will just be spraying the primer on. I will brush the actual paint on.