I am a novice to detailing and wonder if there is any satisfactory way to paint the rails short of buying an airbrush set?
Are there spray cans in the proper colors that would work as well. Want to get this done before adding ballast? Correct?
Thanks, Jake [8D]
you can use spray cans, dark brown will work. I use inexpensive craft paints from walmart and just use a small brush, I also use tan, white and gray shades to paint my ties as I don’t like them all one color, then I ballast and finally use a rusty brown wa***o cover tie plates and ballast. If you go the spray bomb route be sure to cover tops of rails with oil (clipper or three in one) then when done just wipe tops off,also don’t get paint in/on switchpoints, a real pita to clean.
I am in the process of painting my rails as well. I have been painting the vertical side of my rails with Polly “Rust”. I also paint the spikes and spike plates with this colour. Iv’e been doing three foot sections of track at a sitting. When the rail and spike portion are done, I go back and clean up the ties with railroad tie brown. It looks amazingly authentic. But OMG it’s a lot of work!!! I look at it as a trial of my patience, but ultimately if I didn’t think it was worth it I wouldn’t do it.
Good luck with your rails.
Trevor
Before you paint them go out and look at the rails in your area. The sidings will be a darker brown than the main. The grades will be lighter in color than the rest of the main because of sanding. If the main is two tracks only one of them will be lighter on the grades. If you have a siding that is an oil dealer, coal mine or the like the rails will be nearly black. If your siding is a flour mill, bakery etc. the rails will be white in places. If you are modelling diesels don’t forget to have places where one of the locomotives was leaking oil and left a dotted black stripe down the ties on the main.
A little bit of thought can really make the track look outstanding.
ps.be sure your soldering is also done first,rail joints and wires
The best experience i have had is to use pre-weathered rail. Micro-Engineering markets them. This works especially well if your track is hand laid like mine. But even if you atr using flex track, you can use thier weathering solution by swabbing each rail with a Q-tip. Better yet, you can dunk the track if you use a container long and shallow enough to hold the solution. Just rememeber to neutralize it with baking soda and water when you think the rails are dark enough.
I use to use Floquil Rail Brown and Grimy Black, but at 5.00 a small can - Rats. Switched to 99 cent a can spray paint in grey primer, flat black and rust primer. You can paint after ballasting. It’s more effective. Don’t forget to clean the rails quick with a rag and thinner or put vasoline or oil on the railheads before painting.
Most rails are acctually a dirty brown. Camoflauge earth browns by Krylon and Rustoleum are a very good match. Paint the rails and ties before you ballast. You can then do high lights with a rust or grimmey black color with a brush. I don’t recommend oiling the rail heads first. The oil will leech down into the paint and leave bear spots on the rails. The paint is EZ enough to clean off the rail heads after it has dried. A razor blade works well.
Anytime you have a long tedious job listen to your favorite radio station or play tapes of your favorite music. It really makes the job go easier.
I tend to paint mine in the period between first track laying and final ballasting (about a 10 year gap), but sometimes I do it after. I think for most area a quick run with a brush is enough. I use brown shades, Floquil for the first coat if I need it to stick. Final colours are selected from the usual scenery dirt colours - siennas and umbers. Sometimes colours called Rail Brown or Track Colour.